Saturday 30 January 2010

Day 134 Thursday 28/01/10

Mr Dyson (Csabi) was to be our tour guide to Budapest for the morning. We travelled in to the city on the suburban train and met Csabi at the station. We were taken to the hospital in the rock – an underground hospital from WWII and a “secret” nuclear bunker from the cold war. It is a very interesting tour and worth seeing. We then went to some more caves under the castle called the “Labyrinth” which was a very strange tour (old caves filled with modern art). After a spot of shopping and eating “Langos”, we said goodbye to Csabi at the train station and headed back to Szilvi and Anton’s flat.


An evening caving trip had been arranged with Peter Zentay, so we met Peter, Aggi and Peter’s father, Zsolt at the Pal Volgi cave for a trip into Matthias Cave. We had a great trip in the cave and got very hot – but cooled down in the pub with a beer!

Day 133 Wednesday 27/01/10

We were invited to Marci and Agnes’s flat for lunch and saw Marci’s photographs from their recent caving expedition to the deepest cave in the world (-2040m) in Aphasia (near Russia). In the evening we went to the thermal baths at Gelert with Marci. MC had a dental appointment at 8:30pm with Marci’s dentist, so we had a meal in Budapest before heading up to the dentist (tooth problem that had continued since Tunisia).

Wednesday 27 January 2010

Day 132 Tuesday 26/01/10

We planned to drive to Hungary today but had an invite to visit Brana’s parents before we left Belgrade and Bebek wanted to show us some more of Belgrade too. We stopped off for tea and cake at Brana’s parents and jump started one of their cars from the Land Rover battery before driving to a local park to have a walk. It was great to have such wonderful accommodation, food and city tour guides for our first visit to Serbia. We cannot wait to go back and visit this country in slightly warmer weather and to explore the country and its caves. Many thanks Bebek and Brana!


We set off at 2:00pm to Hungary and the drive was very easy. The route was motorway all the way and we made it to Budapest by 8:00pm. We met our good friend, Marci, just off the ring-road and followed him to our next “caver” accommodation with our other good friends, Szilvi and Anton. We have been very lucky for our return leg of the journey to have so many good friends to provide help, great meals and a bed for the night!

Day 131 Monday 25/01/10

Bebek took the day off work to show us round Belgrade. We travelled in by bus and spent the day in the city, calling in on an old Turkish bar to sample the local beer.

Day 130 Sunday 24/01/10

We had an early start to drive to Serbia. On getting out to the Land Rover, MC found that someone had hit the Land Rover and damaged the back corner. The vehicle survived 4 months of North Africa and sustained its only bodywork damage with only one week to go!


It was very cold and we set off driving wrapped up in coats and ski salopettes. We thought that we may have some problems at the Serbian border as our Land Rover, at a gross weight of 3500kg, is classed as a lorry in Serbia. If we had to enter as a lorry, it would mean a long queue with many HGV’s on the border. As it happened, we sailed through the car lane in two minutes with no hassle!

We had arranged to meet Bebek, a Serbian caver that we met in Hungary last new year, in his home town of Jagodina and then travel to Belgrade with him and his wife (Brana) to their flat. It turned out that we were meeting them at Bebek’s niece’s birthday party and were fed before we could leave.

Day 129 Saturday 23/01/10

Awoke to another cold day, so after sorting the emails and repacking the Land Rover, we went for a walk with Dudley around V.T. In the evening we all went to a local restaurant for a meal with some more ex-pats. Thanks again to the Thorpes and it was great to catch up with you!

Saturday 23 January 2010

Day 128 Friday 22/01/10

With the weather in Eastern Europe being so cold (down to -20 degrees C) we decided to head back to the UK quicker than originally planned. We booked tickets to Thailand to spend February in the sun – caving with the Shepton Mallet Caving Club!

After lunch we headed out with Dudley to visit a near-by gorge and (frozen?) waterfall. On the way there, Dudley’s car got stuck in the snow, so MC and EP got out to give it a push. It was at this time that MC spotted a flat back tyre. A quick wheel change was needed and we headed to the nearby village to find a tyre repair shop. With a new, second-hand, tyre on the car we gave up on the tourist thing and headed back to V.T.

Day 127 Thursday 21/01/10

We arrived in V.T. at 5:00am – one hour early. A short taxi ride had us back at the Thorpe’s house and we crept in and slept for 5 hours! Bulgaria was cold (about -10 degrees C) and covered in snow. We had a lazy day chatting with Dudley before heading out to do a bit of shopping and then meeting up with the Thorpe clan for a meal in town.

Day 126 Wednesday 20/01/10

We had a day to kill before getting on the coach. It was cold but not raining! We walked across a bridge into Asia and into the other part of Istanbul. After catching the tram back to Europe we had a visit to the Blue Mosque before going back to the hostel to kill some time on the internet.

A taxi picked us up at 6:30pm and took us to the coach station. We found our coach and our seats and waited for the off. We left on time and headed for the border, crossing just before midnight.

Day 125 Tuesday 19/01/10

JC set off from Beirut to head to Cyprus via Syria. JC had a cunning plan to avoid the cold weather of Eastern Europe.... we will see if it works!

The rain had turned to sleet and snow in Istanbul but we used the tram and Metro to go out to the main coach station and book our tickets back to Bulgaria. The tickets were 40 Lyria each for the 10 hour coach ride to Veliko Turnovo. We were booked on the 8:00pm coach for the next day.

On the way back to the hostel, we called in at the spice market for a quick look. With the weather being so cold, we decided to head back to the hostel to use the internet and look at flights to Thailand.

Day 124 Monday 18/01/10

Today was the day that the three of us parted company. EP and MC crept out of Hadi’s flat at 3:15am to drive to the airport. After handing back the hire car we checked our bags in and waited for our flight to Istanbul. The plane was almost on time leaving and we landed at Istanbul a few minutes later than planned.


We were met by the shuttle driver that we had booked to take us to our hostel and we got to the Mavi Guesthouse by 9:00am. We were both tired after the early start from Beirut, so slept until lunchtime.

We awoke to a cold and wet Istanbul. So, digging out the Gortex jackets for the first time of the trip, we walked into the city. The Grand Bazaar was a good choice as it was covered and we could escape the rain.

Sunday 17 January 2010

Day 123 Sunday 17/01/10

Our last day in Lebanon! We went to Antelias to visit a small cave in the quarry called Qanaan. This cave, although only 300m long is very well decorated and needs to be revisited with camera equipment next time. The 3 Brits were joined by Hiba, who had not been in this cave before, whilst Rena and Issaam went to look at another new cave in the same quarry.

After a quick trip it was back to Issaam's house to clean our caving kit and the rope that we had borrowed from Issam before driving back to Hadi's appartment.


Day 122 Saturday 16/01/10

We were invited to join Rena and Issaam on a trip to the Bekaa Valley to find a cave that Rena last visited 5 years ago. On her previous trip she picked up an old bear claw - so the plan was to revisit this cave and look for more evidence.

Once we found the right road out of the village we parked up and were met by some locals. Issaam and Rena had a conversation with them and were told of another cave in the next valley.

We gathered up our packs, walked gingerly through packs of barking dogs, and headed up the hillside in bright sunshine. We expected a 45 minute walk - but with only vague recollections as to where the cave was, we wandered around the hills for 3 hours until we found the entrance.

We did not have much time left, so EP, JC, MC and Issaam went into the cave for a quick explore. It is a muddy cave with some crawls to a climb. After the climb there is a short passage to a pitch down to running water and a sump. We stopped at the pitch head and then headed out. We all decided that we had seen better caves in Lebanon - but the surrounding scenery was fantastic!

In the evening we were all invited to a BBQ at a club member's beach house. We had a great evening with SCL members and loads of food and drink! Thank you to all those involved with the organisation.

Day 121 Friday 15/01/10

With a better weather forecast we thought we would try looking for new caves in the area that we had been in on Wednesday. Today the weather was perfect with clear blue skies and sun shine.

Driving to the area JC and EP spotted an entrance next to a new road. We took a GPS fix and JC explored inside what turned out to be an old Iron mine. Later we found that it was known to SCL.

We met a few locals and showed them a statement that Issaam had written for us in arabic, explaining what we were doing. We were directed to Sannine but it was to a spring that was well known (Nabaa Sannine). JC went inside the man-made entrance but it ended after approx. 90m at a boulder pile.

Day 120 Thursday 14/01/10

We drove back up to the Hrajel area to find Ain Seraaiya. The cave is situated in a quarry, which the local cavers hope will not be lost should the quarry extend.

We parked above the cave near a small church and climbed down the hillside to the entrance. The cave has a stream flowing out and we walked in the stream passage, with the occasional diversion over muddy breakdown, to the end of the cave. The cave closed down at the end with a potential dig site for the future!

On our way out we spent some time taking photographs but on reaching the entrance the air temperature had dropped dramatically. The walk back to the car was hard with frozen feet and hands!

In the evening we went along to the SCL club meeting and showed a caving DVD, brought over from the UK. We then handed over some cave rescue equipment that, again, we brought from the UK (kindly donated by Gloucestershire Cave Rescue Group).

Friday 15 January 2010

Day 119 Wednesday 13/01/10

Issaam had told us of an area that had not been explored for caves by SCL. We decided to spend the day looking for new potential in this area. We drove up to the Sannine area in the bright sunshine. With some problems in route finding, when we finally got to our target area, the fog and rain had descended.

We could not see past the edge of the road - which did not make for efficient cave hunting! Driving back to Beirut we had rain, hail and floods to contend with - along with Lebanese driving!

Day 118 Tuesday 12/01/10

MC went to collect the new (smaller) hire car and then the 3 of us set off to survey our new find near Hrajel. We entered the cave and surveyed it to it's end (343m). Upon exiting the cave we met the land owner who did not seem too pleased that we were there - so it was a quick exit back to the car without obtaining a (local) name for the cave - so, at present, it stays as "bedstead cave" as named by Steve.


Day 117 Monday 11/01/10

Up at 3:30am to take Rick and Steve to the airport, back to bed by 4:30am and up at 7:30am to take the hire car back.

After this it was a quiet day. We went shopping to cook an "English" for Hadi. We had a night in with a Sunday roast on a Monday - c/o JC and MC (and a couple of bottles of wine).

Day 116 Sunday 10/01/10

The highlight of the week - a trip into Jeita!  As the water levels seemed low for this time of year, we were very fortunate to be able to have a caving trip into the depths of this spectacular show cave, the longest in Lebanon.

We (the 5 Brits and Issaam, Rena and Hiba) entered via the lower entrance of the show cave, which consists of a 660m long lake. This time we were in boats and not swimming but it is still fantastic (apart from the uncoordinated rowing!).  The cave is beautifully decorated and the sounds of dripping water echo all around.

Once we had reached the end of the lake, we climbing up and down over boulders to Chaos and the Step.  The water at the Step was extremely high and strong. Eric, Steve and John went on for a short distance and even inflated the new dinghy from Scarborough but could not proceed further.

A great trip was had by all - thanks to the show cave management and SCL for arranging access.


Day 115 Saturday 09/01/10

After a manaeesh stop, the five of us headed upto Nabaa El Hadid together with Issaam, Rena and Rena's cousin on her first caving trip. We explored the cave then Rena measured the waterflow whilst we took photos.

EP, Eric (Rick) and Steve then ventured down Nabaa el Qana where Eric managed to disturb a bat.


Day 114 Friday 08/01/10

With Hadi's accident the previous night, it was not possible for our planned underground trip to take place.  Instead, we spent the morning looking after the invalid before we had a tourist trip around Byblos for Rick to go snorkelling.  The world famous cave diver bottled out after seeing the litter on the beach!

Day 113 Thursday 07/01/10

Afqa Cave. All the time we have been coming to Lebanon the water levels have been too high to get into Afqa. The cave has a massive entrance with an impressive waterfall pouring out. The previous weekend we drove past the cave and the water levels were lower than we had seen in the past, so we decided to visit the cave today.

Afqa is where Adonis met his death and also where Adonis and Aphrodite exchanged their first kiss. The five Brits , armed with the recent SCL survey entered the cave to explore. The cave is a maze of small tunnels and we had a few route finding issues at first. We explored most of the cave but had a time restraint as Rick was due to give a presentation at the SCL club that night.

On the evening SCL were having the official opening of their new library at the club, so there was a TV company present to film the event and interview Rick (or Eric to our Lebanese friends). The evening had an unexpected ending when Hadi slipped off the first holds of their indoor climbing wall and dislocated his knee. After some first aid an ambulance was called to take Hadi to hospital to have his knee cap put back in place.

Hadi came home accompanied by Rena and Issaam by 1:30am with his knee in place and splinted.

Thursday 14 January 2010

Day 112 Wednesday 06/01/10

We planned a trip to see our friends in Houqa and to descend the cave on their land today. Whilst driving up into the mountains EP sent a text to Antoinette to warn of our invasion, but received a text back to say that the Grandma had died on Saturday and they were in mourning. We were still welcome to visit, so we pressed on.

It was a more sombre greeting than normal when we arrived but we were still made very welcome. The 5 of us abseiled into the cave to show the 3 newcomers the amazing formations at the bottom of the cave.

We called in on the family when we exited the cave and were given coffee and apples. After leaving the house we continued down the valley to a monestry in the valley floor to look for more caves.

Day 111 Tuesday 05/01/10

JC arrived back in Beirut by 9:30am, so the 5 Brits piled into the hire car and headed for the village of Hrajel to visit the cave Nabaa el Mghara, which Issaam told us was easy to find and close to the road.

We found the correct road and after asking a couple of locals we found the cave entrance but it was gated and locked. After a quick phone call to Hadi, he told us that there was another entrance higher up that you could use to climb down into the cave. We set off on the hillside looking for this second entrance. Whilst searching the hillside a local man came up to us and was talking in Arabic to us and pointing up the hill. Again, with Hadi as our phone interpreter, we learnt that there was another cave higher up.

JC, Rick and Steve went into Nabaa el Mghara whilst EP and MC went loking for the new cave. The entrance was discovered and we went in to explore and photograph. The cave had seen a lot of local traffic and there was a lot of graffiti on the walls and old torches on the floor.

On our return to Beirut we described the location of the new cave but the Lebanese cavers did not recognise our description - a new cave for SCL?

Wednesday 13 January 2010

Day 110 Monday 04/01/10

Today Val flew back to the UK from Jordan and JC headed back to Syria, enroute for Lebanon.

EP and MC woke to rain! We drove up to Issaam's house and spent a couple of hours looking at maps and surveys to plan caving trips for the next two weeks.

After leaving Issaam's house we continued into the mountains to search for a valley that has not been checked for caves yet. The fog came down with more rain and we could not find the area we were looking for. We gave up and headed back to Beirut.

We drove to the airport at Midnight to collect Steve Round and Rick Stanton who were joining us for a week of caving in Lebanon.

Day 109 Sunday 03/01/10

We were collected from Hadi's place by Rena and set off to meet Issaam and Hiba. We were going to look at a new cave that Hiba had found.

The cave was close to Beirut but needed a walk in through lots of vegetation to get to it. The cave was not too long, consisting of two chambers with a short crawl off but was home to many fruit bats. The cave was surveyed by Rena, Hadi and Hiba whilst Issaam, Emma and Mike took photos.

Day 108 Saturday 02/01/10

JC and VI set off riding to Jordan via Damascus.

EP and MC went to find a section of the Lebanon Mountain Trail (a long distance hike that runs north/south across most of Lebanon). We drove to a small village east of Beirut where the (basic) guidebook shows the trail crossing.

After spending a long time driving around the village, looking in vain, we were stopped by a local (Elias) and we asked for some directions. He did not speak English and we got directions to the next village. He then invited us back to his house for coffee, so he jumped into our car and we headed off to his house in the village.

After coffee and apples we drove Elias to the next village before heding back towards Beirut - having given up on the trail! We found a river gorge and decided we would hike up this gorge instead.

Monday 11 January 2010

Day 107 Friday 01/01/10

Once everyone had managed to tear themselves away from their beds, we drove up to the Cedars Reserve for a walk in the Chouf Cedars. Just like our previous visit to this area in 2004 the fog came down! Luckily it wasn't as thick as 6 years ago and we could see the trees!

Rather than heading straight back to Beirut we drove into the Bekaa valley and back via the Damascus road.


Sunday 10 January 2010

Day 106 Thursday 31/12/09

We collected the hire car from Avis at the Pheonicia Hotel and drove back to our slightly less expensive hotel to collect our bags. We headed over to Hadi's appartment to drop off our bags before meeting up with Rena and Issaam and we drove in convoy down to the Chouf mountains for a new year eve party (arranged by Karen's sister-in-law).

We met up with about 30 Lebanese for a great party in the mountains.

Day 105 Wednesday 30/12/09

After a bit of a late start MC and EP went into Beirut for a walk whilst JC and VI attempted to visit Byblos and not get caught in rain (again).

In the evening we all met up with Hadi, Rena, Karen and Issaam from our Lebanese caving club (SCL) for a meal.