The bus got into Istanbul by 7:00am and we caught a taxi to the airport. We then had a 14 hour wait for our plane to Lebanon. It was a long boring wait and the only excitment was when we weighed our luggage and were 20kg overweight! We spent some time repacking the hold luggage and secreting things into coat pockets and wearing more clothes.
We got through with no excess baggage charges and had a short flight to Beirut. We landed at 11:45pm to rain. After being picked up by JC and the hotel owner, we headed out for a beer and got to bed at 2:00am.
Wednesday 30 December 2009
Day 103 Monday 28/12/09
After a lazy start we started packing for our trip to Lebanon. This meant emptying the Land Rover and sorting what kit we could take on the plane. We then had fun fitting the Land Rover into their garage. By removing the rear spare tyre and the front bumper touching the far wall, the Land Rover fitted with 1cm to spare!
In the evening we headed to the bus station in town and caught the bus to Istanbul (10 hours ride). The bus jouney was better than we thought it would be and the time passed relatively quickly.
In the evening we headed to the bus station in town and caught the bus to Istanbul (10 hours ride). The bus jouney was better than we thought it would be and the time passed relatively quickly.
Day 102 Sunday 27/12/09
The crossing into Bulgaria was easy as we were heading back into the EU. The road signs were a little confusing as the Bulgarians use their own alphabet.
It was cold and wet but we made it to Veliko Turnovo by evening. We met Fiona Thorpe and had a relaxing evening indoors admiring their building restorations (and consuming a bottle of Bulgarian wine).
It was cold and wet but we made it to Veliko Turnovo by evening. We met Fiona Thorpe and had a relaxing evening indoors admiring their building restorations (and consuming a bottle of Bulgarian wine).
Monday 28 December 2009
Day 101 Saturday 26/12/09
Another day of driving was on the cards and we set off early calling in on a McDonalds for breakfast. We were pleasantly surprised on the quality of the roads as we crossed Turkey. It made the driving a lot easier than we had dared to hope. By evening we were passed Istanbul and close to the Bulgarian border. We stopped at a motorway rest area to cook a meal and spend the night before crossing into Bulgaria the next day.
Day 100 Friday 25/12/09
We left Oludeniz and started our drive north to Istanbul and the Bulgarian border. We called off at the World Heritage site at Pamukkale to visit the travertines with their thermal waters. This site is an amazing area of a hillside that is covered in calcite that looks like ice. At the top is the site of an ancient ruined city and gour pools filled with turquoise thermal water which you can walk (barefoot) in – if you pay the 20 TL each to enter the site.
We continued the drive north on good roads and reached the town of Afyon by evening. We camped at another service station with trucks as neighbours again.
We continued the drive north on good roads and reached the town of Afyon by evening. We camped at another service station with trucks as neighbours again.
Day 99 Thursday 24/12/09
Continuing our drive along the Med coast of Turkey we had a brief stop in Kas for breakfast and Wifi before driving to Oludeniz and to the apartment owned by EP’s parents to get some washing done and spend the night.
Day 98 Wednesday 23/12/09
We awoke to a cold morning and the first with ice on the inside of the Land Rover. The landscape was bleak and foggy. We drove into the town and to the World Heritage site of the underground city. After paying our 15 TL each we went down into this amazing place where up to 30,000 people once lived.
Our next stop was the town of Goreme and the “fairy houses” which are carved into the conical hills.
We then had a long drive west, heading for Oludeniz. We made it to Kemer where we again filled up with Diesel and camped at the filling station.
Our next stop was the town of Goreme and the “fairy houses” which are carved into the conical hills.
We then had a long drive west, heading for Oludeniz. We made it to Kemer where we again filled up with Diesel and camped at the filling station.
Day 97 Tuesday 22/12/09
We woke for our planned early start only to find the same back tyre on the Land Rover flat. After pumping some more air into it we headed back into Latakia to find a repair shop and wait for it to open. By 9:30 the tyre was repaired and we were heading for Turkey. The border was only 50km north and we were soon there.
After 2 hours we were in Turkey having spent £30.00 on two visas and 5 TL on something for the car (road tax?). Rather than blast across Turkey to Bulgaria, we decided to see a little of the country. First stop was Derinkuyu in the Cappadocia Mountains. Arriving in the dark we filled up with fuel (185 TL about £80!!!!!) and asked if we could park up for the night there. We got the permission and set up camp for the night.
After 2 hours we were in Turkey having spent £30.00 on two visas and 5 TL on something for the car (road tax?). Rather than blast across Turkey to Bulgaria, we decided to see a little of the country. First stop was Derinkuyu in the Cappadocia Mountains. Arriving in the dark we filled up with fuel (185 TL about £80!!!!!) and asked if we could park up for the night there. We got the permission and set up camp for the night.
Day 96 Monday 21/12/09
EP and MC set off north, heading for Turkey whilst JC and VI were to have a day in the souks of Damascus.
Heading north we deviated off the motorway near Hama to find the fort of Qalaat Shmaimis. This 13th century ruin sits on top of a volcano in the middle of the flat plain east of Hama. Having climbed up to the fort and the small cave that sits beneath it, we got back to the Land Rover to find a couple of locals on their motorbikes. We showed them a picture of a cave and asked if they knew of any more in the area. With help from one of our Lebanese telephone interpreters one of them said yes and he would show us. He was one of the Bedouin who camp around the base of the fort, tending their sheep.
The cave was in the moat of the fort and was a small cave of two chambers. One chamber ended in infill which looked to emerge on the hillside not too far away. Back at the car we were invited back to his camp for tea and giving him a lift back, we headed off to camp. Here we met more Bedouin and enjoyed some cups of tea with them before a quick photo session and heading off back to Hama (after declining the offer of camping there for the night).
We drove into Hama to see the massive wooden waterwheels and grab a quick falafel sandwich before continuing north. We drove up to Latakia on the northern coast, ready for a crossing into Turkey the next day. We arrived late and found a layby with a truck parked for the night. We decided to stop behind the truck and car camp there. We went over to say hello to our new neighbor and had some coffee and a chat with him albeit in different languages! We went to bed in a massive storm with heavy rain, thunder and lightning.
Heading north we deviated off the motorway near Hama to find the fort of Qalaat Shmaimis. This 13th century ruin sits on top of a volcano in the middle of the flat plain east of Hama. Having climbed up to the fort and the small cave that sits beneath it, we got back to the Land Rover to find a couple of locals on their motorbikes. We showed them a picture of a cave and asked if they knew of any more in the area. With help from one of our Lebanese telephone interpreters one of them said yes and he would show us. He was one of the Bedouin who camp around the base of the fort, tending their sheep.
The cave was in the moat of the fort and was a small cave of two chambers. One chamber ended in infill which looked to emerge on the hillside not too far away. Back at the car we were invited back to his camp for tea and giving him a lift back, we headed off to camp. Here we met more Bedouin and enjoyed some cups of tea with them before a quick photo session and heading off back to Hama (after declining the offer of camping there for the night).
We drove into Hama to see the massive wooden waterwheels and grab a quick falafel sandwich before continuing north. We drove up to Latakia on the northern coast, ready for a crossing into Turkey the next day. We arrived late and found a layby with a truck parked for the night. We decided to stop behind the truck and car camp there. We went over to say hello to our new neighbor and had some coffee and a chat with him albeit in different languages! We went to bed in a massive storm with heavy rain, thunder and lightning.
Thursday 24 December 2009
Day 95 Sunday 20/12/09
JC and VI were to arrive in Damascus today, so whilst waiting for them EP and MC headed back to the old town for some Kilim shopping. We got lost wandering around the souks that seemed to go on forever! There are souks for everything! We wandered through the plumbing and hardware section, various clothing souks, the coffee souk and plenty of others. We made our way back to the main souk and visited many carpet shops to find a small memento of our time in the Middle East.
All the traders were very helpful and not at all pushy with no high pressure selling. We eventually settled on our purchase and headed back towards the hotel, meeting JC and VI on the way.
All the traders were very helpful and not at all pushy with no high pressure selling. We eventually settled on our purchase and headed back towards the hotel, meeting JC and VI on the way.
Sunday 20 December 2009
Day 94 Saturday 19/21/09
The Land Rover was in need of a service and the Syrian Land Rover agent would not touch it (Diesel and too old!). The hotel reception told us of an area near with lots of mechanics and so armed with a map we prepared to set off. Whilst waiting in the Land Rover for EP to emerge from the hotel, MC met another “overlander”. Brian, from South Africa and his wife Diana were driving “Cape to Cape”, from South Africa to Norway in a new Defender 110. They were looking for a hotel and had just been into the Sultan to enquire (where EP met them too). After a short chat we said our goodbyes and headed off to “mechanic land”.
We found the road with plenty of tyre repair shops and stopped at one for our puncture repair. As soon as the wheel was off we had gathered a crowd of onlookers including the occupants of an old Land Rover. MC went over to ask if they knew a mechanic who could service our vehicle. A discussion between them took place and one lad set off on his bike. He came back soon and took MC over the road to a small garage and told me that they would do the work for us.
After having the puncture repaired and the rest of the tyres checked (S£50 – about 75p), we drove round to the garage. With very little common language we got the engine oil, axle oils and coolant changed, the UJ greased together with the oil and air filter fitted that we gave them and the bill was S£2,800 – about £42.00. We again gathered quite a crowd with everyone very friendly and helpful.
After parking up the Land Rover we set off back into the souks for a haircut for EP, but let’s not go there!
In the evening we met up with Brian and Diana for a meal and a chat.
We found the road with plenty of tyre repair shops and stopped at one for our puncture repair. As soon as the wheel was off we had gathered a crowd of onlookers including the occupants of an old Land Rover. MC went over to ask if they knew a mechanic who could service our vehicle. A discussion between them took place and one lad set off on his bike. He came back soon and took MC over the road to a small garage and told me that they would do the work for us.
After having the puncture repaired and the rest of the tyres checked (S£50 – about 75p), we drove round to the garage. With very little common language we got the engine oil, axle oils and coolant changed, the UJ greased together with the oil and air filter fitted that we gave them and the bill was S£2,800 – about £42.00. We again gathered quite a crowd with everyone very friendly and helpful.
After parking up the Land Rover we set off back into the souks for a haircut for EP, but let’s not go there!
In the evening we met up with Brian and Diana for a meal and a chat.
Day 93 Friday 18/12/09
Waking up in a hotel in Damascus the situation had sunk in and the morning was spent on the phone and planning a revised trip. The plan evolved to continue the drive round the Med to Bulgaria where we could leave the Land Rover with the Thorpes (Ex Dragon Caving Gear). After catching a train to Istanbul we would fly into Beirut for a shorter time. After a few phone calls to Dial-a-flight in England we had two return flights from Istanbul to Beirut.
We also found that the Land Rover had a flat tyre after picking up a nail somewhere. Whilst pumping it back up to see if it would drive to a repair place (and save us swapping a tyre) a helpful local Land Rover owner came over for a chat (with good English) and proceeded to pump the tyre up for us!
With no more planning to do at present, we walked into the old town to look round the souks. In the evening we had another visit to the Wifi hotel to catch up on emails.
We also found that the Land Rover had a flat tyre after picking up a nail somewhere. Whilst pumping it back up to see if it would drive to a repair place (and save us swapping a tyre) a helpful local Land Rover owner came over for a chat (with good English) and proceeded to pump the tyre up for us!
With no more planning to do at present, we walked into the old town to look round the souks. In the evening we had another visit to the Wifi hotel to catch up on emails.
Friday 18 December 2009
Day 92 Thursday 17/12/09
If only we knew how the day would pan out!
The Jordanian border crossing was a bit more problematic than our entry but the Syrian one was far easier than anticipated, although we were stung $100 for a “diesel tax”. Syria was cold and bleak, as we headed north to Damascus, chatting about meeting up with Speleo Club du Liban that evening.
After getting lost around Damascus, we were assisted by a friendly taxi driver who told us to follow him and then gave us directions. We found the right road and headed on to the Syrian border. Negotiating the flooded border post, we eventually, after much confusion and lack of information, past the border and drove the several miles to the Lebanese border. Whilst queuing for the border, a money-exchanger asked us if our car was diesel, and then told us that we would not be able to enter. A few minutes later, another money-exchanger told us the same. Why wouldn’t a diesel car be allowed?
Emma decided to walk up and check with the customs/army about bringing a diesel car in, only to be told that they were banned. Why? The answer was simply because they are illegal. We turned our car around and headed to back to Syria, our heads spinning. We stopped at the border and had to pay another $100 diesel tax as we had left the country, just to rub salt in the wound. Emma asked about where we could park the car long term in Damascus so we could then take the coach to Beirut – the answer was, we couldn’t, as the car was in Emma’s passport and she could not leave the country without the passport.
There was nothing we could do – all our planning, our dream of spending two months exploring, caving and skiing and time with our friends in our “second home” was destroyed – we were devastated.
The Jordanian border crossing was a bit more problematic than our entry but the Syrian one was far easier than anticipated, although we were stung $100 for a “diesel tax”. Syria was cold and bleak, as we headed north to Damascus, chatting about meeting up with Speleo Club du Liban that evening.
After getting lost around Damascus, we were assisted by a friendly taxi driver who told us to follow him and then gave us directions. We found the right road and headed on to the Syrian border. Negotiating the flooded border post, we eventually, after much confusion and lack of information, past the border and drove the several miles to the Lebanese border. Whilst queuing for the border, a money-exchanger asked us if our car was diesel, and then told us that we would not be able to enter. A few minutes later, another money-exchanger told us the same. Why wouldn’t a diesel car be allowed?
Emma decided to walk up and check with the customs/army about bringing a diesel car in, only to be told that they were banned. Why? The answer was simply because they are illegal. We turned our car around and headed to back to Syria, our heads spinning. We stopped at the border and had to pay another $100 diesel tax as we had left the country, just to rub salt in the wound. Emma asked about where we could park the car long term in Damascus so we could then take the coach to Beirut – the answer was, we couldn’t, as the car was in Emma’s passport and she could not leave the country without the passport.
There was nothing we could do – all our planning, our dream of spending two months exploring, caving and skiing and time with our friends in our “second home” was destroyed – we were devastated.
Day 91 Wednesday 16/12/09
We planned to travel to the Syrian border today and prepared to cross early the next day. We had a lazy morning in the sun and had a walk under some nearby cliff and the surrounding area for a bit of cave hunting. One of the books by Tony Howard and Di Taylor makes reference to there being caves in the area – we could not locate anything but rock shelters.
It was only 50 miles to the border and we parked up on some waste ground near the border along with trucks to wait for morning.
It was only 50 miles to the border and we parked up on some waste ground near the border along with trucks to wait for morning.
Day 90 Tuesday 15/12/09
Woke up to a cold, bleak morning and drove to the other wildlife sanctuary in Azraq. The sanctuary is a marsh-land environment with reed beds. When we got there we were told that most of the reeds had been burnt down! We walked across the desolation to the hide and saw Coots and House Sparrows!
Giving up on Azraq, we decided to drive west to Jerash. We parked in this busy town and had a walk to buy some provisions. Walking along we were constantly greeted with “Hello” and “Welcome”. It seemed a very friendly place. We had a coffee at a street stall and had a crowd gather to talk to us.
Leaving Jerash we headed to the Dibbin National Park,rolling limestone and sandstone hills with a forest overlooking Jerash and found a camp spot for the night.
Giving up on Azraq, we decided to drive west to Jerash. We parked in this busy town and had a walk to buy some provisions. Walking along we were constantly greeted with “Hello” and “Welcome”. It seemed a very friendly place. We had a coffee at a street stall and had a crowd gather to talk to us.
Leaving Jerash we headed to the Dibbin National Park,rolling limestone and sandstone hills with a forest overlooking Jerash and found a camp spot for the night.
Day 89 Monday 14/12/09
After a quick visit under the thundery-looking clouds to Mount Nebo (just because we have never been there), we headed to Wadi Seer to look for some caves mentioned in the guide books. We found the “caves” – which were no more than carved-out rock shelters at the village of Iraq Al-Amir.
We then headed back towards Amman and further east to Al Azraq. This was an area of Jordan, near the borders of Saudi and Iraq, which we had not visited before. Arriving in the dark we went to the Shaumari Wildlife Reserve, where camping is permitted, only to find it closed for development. So heading back into Azraq we found a cheap hotel (15 JD) in this wild-west like town and went out to find some food. The town appears to be one main street that has a constant flow of HGV’s from Saudi passing through.
We then headed back towards Amman and further east to Al Azraq. This was an area of Jordan, near the borders of Saudi and Iraq, which we had not visited before. Arriving in the dark we went to the Shaumari Wildlife Reserve, where camping is permitted, only to find it closed for development. So heading back into Azraq we found a cheap hotel (15 JD) in this wild-west like town and went out to find some food. The town appears to be one main street that has a constant flow of HGV’s from Saudi passing through.
Thursday 17 December 2009
Day 88 Sunday 13/12/09
After some photography, we set off up the Desert Highway to go to Feinan to explore the copper mines. Unfortunately, due to the Arabic only road signs on a certain stretch of road we had driven miles past and so continued to north to Lot’s Cave. Whilst the site was officially closed for restoration and the building of a new museum, we were guided up the partly renewed steps to the shallow rock shelter before heading to the Dead Sea.
The Dead Sea has a number of spectacular gorges that converge into it but once again, we noticed significant changes due to tourism development. The once free hot springs now looks commercialized and other gorges now house dams. As we drove further, the number of hotels and construction sites was unbelievable as Jordan now seeks to market internal tourism with “Amman Beach” and there were far fewer checkpoints than previously.
It took us a while to find our usual car camp, high up in the mountains overlooking the West Bank, still as beautiful as ever. This time, we were not disturbed by Israel and the West Bank fighting.
The Dead Sea has a number of spectacular gorges that converge into it but once again, we noticed significant changes due to tourism development. The once free hot springs now looks commercialized and other gorges now house dams. As we drove further, the number of hotels and construction sites was unbelievable as Jordan now seeks to market internal tourism with “Amman Beach” and there were far fewer checkpoints than previously.
It took us a while to find our usual car camp, high up in the mountains overlooking the West Bank, still as beautiful as ever. This time, we were not disturbed by Israel and the West Bank fighting.
Day 87 Saturday 12/12/09
As we left the camp, we spotted one of our neighbours (Ali), waving his arms as he was stranded in the desert – his Toyota’s battery was flat. Another jump start later and we were all heading back to Rum village.
As EP had hurt her back from loading the Land Rover after the previous night’s car camp, we chose an easy scramble but one that we had not done before. Once back, we camped at the Resthouse and had a shower.
As EP had hurt her back from loading the Land Rover after the previous night’s car camp, we chose an easy scramble but one that we had not done before. Once back, we camped at the Resthouse and had a shower.
Day 86 Friday 11/12/09
MC & EP spent the day navigating and driving in the desert – something we have not had the opportunity to do before in Wadi Rum. Great fun, apart from when Mike decided to follow a track up a dune! We discovered parts of the desert that we had not seen before and recognized other parts from previous trips.
We camped in the same spot as the previous night but this time had neighbours and rain!
We camped in the same spot as the previous night but this time had neighbours and rain!
Day 85 Thursday 10/12/09
JC headed up to the Dead Sea area whilst EP and MC made for Wadi Rum. You are permitted to drive your own 4x4 in Wadi Rum now (not that we saw anyone other than Bedouins driving), for 10JD per day, so we made use of the opportunity and paid for two days of desert driving and wild camping.
We drove through Rum village, past Khalizi? Canyon and on, trying out the sand driving, which we quickly got used to. One of the conditions of staying in the desert is that you must use a campsite and so we found a little cave, next to a camp. We had a short walk, taking photos before the night quickly drew in.
We drove through Rum village, past Khalizi? Canyon and on, trying out the sand driving, which we quickly got used to. One of the conditions of staying in the desert is that you must use a campsite and so we found a little cave, next to a camp. We had a short walk, taking photos before the night quickly drew in.
Wednesday 9 December 2009
Day 84 Wednesday 09/12/09
Diving today. We visited the “Japanese Garden” and the “Rainbow Reef “on two dives. There were plenty of fish to see but also it was noticeable how much more rubbish was seen as compared to previous years. Aqaba’s popularity as a dive venue will undoubtedly damage the reef and marine life.
Day 83 Tuesday 08/12/09
MC and EP drove south out of Aqaba to suss out the accommodation and diving options. JC left Wadi Rum and headed for Aqaba.
We drove to the International Arab Divers Village that opened in 2009 and were greeted by friendly staff and shown the new looking rooms. We decided to stop there and planned to dive with them the following day. We rang JC, told him to meet us there and waited.
Once all booked in and bags in the rooms, we headed back to Aqaba for a look at the town and to see what had changed since our last visit 4 years ago. In the evening MC and EP went to one of our favorite eating places in town, the Royal Yacht Club. JC stayed and ate at the dive centre.
We drove to the International Arab Divers Village that opened in 2009 and were greeted by friendly staff and shown the new looking rooms. We decided to stop there and planned to dive with them the following day. We rang JC, told him to meet us there and waited.
Once all booked in and bags in the rooms, we headed back to Aqaba for a look at the town and to see what had changed since our last visit 4 years ago. In the evening MC and EP went to one of our favorite eating places in town, the Royal Yacht Club. JC stayed and ate at the dive centre.
Tuesday 8 December 2009
Day 82 Monday 07/12/09
Today was the day to do battle with Egyptian customs again and cross over to Jordan with the Land Rover. We left Dahab early for the short drive north to Nuweiba and the ferry port. We arrived at the port just before 10am and bought our tickets to Jordan ($380.00).
We drove into the port and MC went off to try to complete the customs paperwork for the vehicle and us two. It was absolute chaos, busy and all signage in Arabic only! We were booked on the 11:30am “fast” ferry and for over 30 minutes MC wandered around without a clue what to do! You would queue at one window with other people clutching their carnets only to be sent to another window.
Finally a Tourist policeman said that if I had E£30, another policeman would assist me. This finally meant that at least now someone knew where to go and who to slip the E£5 bungs to. We went from office to office all over the port with MC shelling out pound notes to one and all. We eventually cleared customs at about midday. We could see the ferry still at the dock side, so charged down to it, hoping still to make the 11:30am sailing.
At the dock we were told to wait by another policeman and parked next to a colourful, old Renault 4. This was driven by two Frenchmen who were doing a similar route to us around the Med albeit in less time (2 months). At 12:30pm we all saw the ferry leave with no-one on it! The officials told us that it was not taking passengers and that there would be another ferry at 2pm.
At 3pm a ferry arrived and unloaded its passengers. We got onto the boat at 4pm and it set sail at around 5:30pm. We docked in Aqaba at 7:30pm.
Clearing Jordanian customs was a breeze compared to Egypt and we were out of the port by 8:30pm. We were both tired and hungry, so drove to a hotel in the town we had used before. The Moon Village hotel is a bit tatty and cost 30JD for the night, but it had parking outside for the Land Rover and we could walk into town for a meal at the Chinese restaurant and get a well earned beer!
We drove into the port and MC went off to try to complete the customs paperwork for the vehicle and us two. It was absolute chaos, busy and all signage in Arabic only! We were booked on the 11:30am “fast” ferry and for over 30 minutes MC wandered around without a clue what to do! You would queue at one window with other people clutching their carnets only to be sent to another window.
Finally a Tourist policeman said that if I had E£30, another policeman would assist me. This finally meant that at least now someone knew where to go and who to slip the E£5 bungs to. We went from office to office all over the port with MC shelling out pound notes to one and all. We eventually cleared customs at about midday. We could see the ferry still at the dock side, so charged down to it, hoping still to make the 11:30am sailing.
At the dock we were told to wait by another policeman and parked next to a colourful, old Renault 4. This was driven by two Frenchmen who were doing a similar route to us around the Med albeit in less time (2 months). At 12:30pm we all saw the ferry leave with no-one on it! The officials told us that it was not taking passengers and that there would be another ferry at 2pm.
At 3pm a ferry arrived and unloaded its passengers. We got onto the boat at 4pm and it set sail at around 5:30pm. We docked in Aqaba at 7:30pm.
Clearing Jordanian customs was a breeze compared to Egypt and we were out of the port by 8:30pm. We were both tired and hungry, so drove to a hotel in the town we had used before. The Moon Village hotel is a bit tatty and cost 30JD for the night, but it had parking outside for the Land Rover and we could walk into town for a meal at the Chinese restaurant and get a well earned beer!
Sunday 6 December 2009
Day 81 Sunday 06/12/09
Chill-out day and up date the blog day for EP & MC!
JC took the ferry to Jordan.
JC took the ferry to Jordan.
Day 80 Saturday 05/12/09
After packing up and checking out of the camp, we drove to Dahab to meet JC. On the way we drove into the desert to visit the Blue Valley, so called after a Belgium artist painted some of the rocks in the valley blue.
We drove for about 1 hour along easy desert tracks into the blue valley. It was a beautiful, peaceful place and we parked up to cook some food and have a chill-out. At one point a pick-up of Bedouin stopped and had a quick chat (and checking our passports) before leaving us.
After EP drove out of the desert, we carried on the road to Dahab, past a few checkpoints. Arriving in Dahab we booked into the Penguin Hotel, where JC was staying. We got B&B for E£120 and could get Wifi for E£10 per day!
Dahab is described as a laid-back resort and certainly has that feel.
We drove for about 1 hour along easy desert tracks into the blue valley. It was a beautiful, peaceful place and we parked up to cook some food and have a chill-out. At one point a pick-up of Bedouin stopped and had a quick chat (and checking our passports) before leaving us.
After EP drove out of the desert, we carried on the road to Dahab, past a few checkpoints. Arriving in Dahab we booked into the Penguin Hotel, where JC was staying. We got B&B for E£120 and could get Wifi for E£10 per day!
Dahab is described as a laid-back resort and certainly has that feel.
Day 79 Friday 04/12/09
Gebel Katarina is 2642m high and we arranged to set off from the camp at 8am at the guide’s suggestion. When the guide saw our Land Rover the day’s plan suddenly changed. Now we were to drive for 90 minutes into the desert and climb the mountain from the other side.
The walk up was up a wadi and then onto an easy track that was constructed by the Israelis. It was hot work slogging up the hill and just when you thought you were near the summit, there was a dip down and another false summit. We arrived at the summit after 5 hours of walking to be met by fantastic views of the surrounding mountains.
Walking down it was soon dusk and we were still high up. The temperature dropped like a stone when the sun went down. We were soon walking with headtorches. In the dark we were just following the guide and not knowing where we were. We got back to the car at 9:30pm – knackered!
It was then a drive back across the desert, with the guide fast asleep in the passenger seat, MC had to remember the way back! We finally got back to our camp at 11pm and went straight to bed.
JC had one of his best dive days today, diving the Thistlegorm. It was a wreck that he had wanted to dive for a long time and finally realized his wish.
Day 78 Thursday 03/12/09
We decided to climb Mount Sinai (Gebel Musa) today. Arriving at the car park at lunchtime there were many coaches and tourists wandering around the gift shops. We set off, only to arrive at a Police checkpoint and were told we needed a guide to climb the mountain. We were allocated a local guide for E£85 and set off in the heat. The climb up was an easy slog up a wide path, past huts selling drinks and people offering camel rides up the hill. We seemed to have the mountain to ourselves and arriving at the summit there was only one other person up there. We chose to take the alternative route down, the Steps of Repentance – 3750 steps built by a monk as a form of repentance. Here we met many other tourists heading up.
In the evening, at the Fox Camp, we arranged a guide to climb Egypt’s highest mountain next day.
In the evening, at the Fox Camp, we arranged a guide to climb Egypt’s highest mountain next day.
Day 77 Wednesday 02/12/09
We woke up early, preparing to make it to the Sinai that day. All showing evidence of visitors in the night, EP having 48+ bites on one hand!
We were soon onto the Sinai peninsular, driving down the Red Sea coast of Egypt. We decided to part company for a couple of days with JC heading straight to Dahab to get some diving done. EP and MC drove to the St Katherine Protectorate to explore the mountains of the Sinai. We arrived in the village of St Katherine (or Al-Milga) and booked into the Fox of the Desert Camp for E£30 per person per night for a simple room.
We were soon onto the Sinai peninsular, driving down the Red Sea coast of Egypt. We decided to part company for a couple of days with JC heading straight to Dahab to get some diving done. EP and MC drove to the St Katherine Protectorate to explore the mountains of the Sinai. We arrived in the village of St Katherine (or Al-Milga) and booked into the Fox of the Desert Camp for E£30 per person per night for a simple room.
Day 76 Tuesday 01/12/09
We left the town early on quiet roads and prepared for a long day of driving east. Our aim was to get past Cairo and on to the Sinai if possible. The roads were quiet and of a better standard than Libya and by late afternoon we were past Cairo (luckily finding the ring road to avoid the city centre).
It was dark by the time we neared Suez and driving was very difficult. In desperation we pulled onto the front of a roadside cafe and asked if we could camp there for the night. The staff were very friendly and helpful and we found out it was their opening night. We had some coffee and a meal and were then shown a loft space (above the Gents toilets) and told we could sleep there for the night.
At 11pm, when it looked like all the customers had gone, we retired to our unusual bedroom. The cafe stayed open all night and thanks to the constant sound of the TV, a squadron of mosiquitos and the lights on all the time, we all got very little sleep!
It was dark by the time we neared Suez and driving was very difficult. In desperation we pulled onto the front of a roadside cafe and asked if we could camp there for the night. The staff were very friendly and helpful and we found out it was their opening night. We had some coffee and a meal and were then shown a loft space (above the Gents toilets) and told we could sleep there for the night.
At 11pm, when it looked like all the customers had gone, we retired to our unusual bedroom. The cafe stayed open all night and thanks to the constant sound of the TV, a squadron of mosiquitos and the lights on all the time, we all got very little sleep!
Day 75 Monday 30/11/09
After a 130km drive, we said goodbye to Hussein and left the calm, courteous, hospitable Libya. We were then thrown into 4 hours of customs, tips and utter confusion. Eventually through having spent approx. £200 for the pleasure of driving in Egypt, the confusion increased as we were stopped by the police who insisted on escorting us for our safety! Three escorts later, with blue lights we made it to the hotel in Matrouh, which at £5 a night was overpriced for the facilities!
Day 74 Sunday 29/11/09
Leaving Derna we drove to Tobruck on our way to the Egyptian border. We were taken to a building on the outskirts of town that looked like a Libyan police station, but it was in fact the site of Rommell’s underground bunker (which we didn’t find out until after the visit) and the resting place for the remains of a WWII B52 bomber and various big guns. We then drove out to the war cemetery for the commonwealth troops and paid a visit to the memorial for the German troops too.
We spent the night at a partially built house on the outskirts of the city thanks to another of Hussein’s many friends that seem to be positioned all around Libya. MC and EP deciding to camp in the Land Rover again as the house was basically a building site!
We spent the night at a partially built house on the outskirts of the city thanks to another of Hussein’s many friends that seem to be positioned all around Libya. MC and EP deciding to camp in the Land Rover again as the house was basically a building site!
Day 73 Saturday 28/11/09
From our camp, we drove about 3km to a watering spot for goats and headed up to the cave where we met Mohammed a shepherd from Chad. He was using the entrance for his goats and dogs and joined us on the caving and photography trip. The cave has been well visited and is about 250m in length.
After a meal in Susa, we headed to the large Kaf Haitha near Ras-al Hillal After a quick stop to look at the large rock shelter with an archaeological excavation in it, we continued east to Derna and a hotel for a well deserved shower!
After a meal in Susa, we headed to the large Kaf Haitha near Ras-al Hillal After a quick stop to look at the large rock shelter with an archaeological excavation in it, we continued east to Derna and a hotel for a well deserved shower!
Day 72 Friday 27/11/09
Happy Eid! JC had already explored one short cave by the time EP and MC surfaced – it had been a noisy night with locals setting fire to trees, revving engines and cows tramping around us! We split up and had an explore down the valley. EP & MC found some rock shelters and shallow caves but scored some Eid cake, whilst JC became entangled in some ultra-strong spider web and carefully brought the spider to show us!
We then headed to Massah to try and find the 475m resurgence cave. This was eventually located with the help of locals and was found to be a major water supply. Given this, we decided that it was better not to explore this already surveyed cave.
In the afternoon we headed to the coastal town of Susa to find Ain Susa, a cave about 6km west of Susa. Unfortunately, we spent a couple of hours scrambling up and down on the wrong wadi! The owners of the allotment, two brothers, where we had parked had arrived and put Hussein straight. They were very hospitable and we shared their Eid meal with them, EP sharing a Christmas cake and they let us sleep on their land.
We then headed to Massah to try and find the 475m resurgence cave. This was eventually located with the help of locals and was found to be a major water supply. Given this, we decided that it was better not to explore this already surveyed cave.
In the afternoon we headed to the coastal town of Susa to find Ain Susa, a cave about 6km west of Susa. Unfortunately, we spent a couple of hours scrambling up and down on the wrong wadi! The owners of the allotment, two brothers, where we had parked had arrived and put Hussein straight. They were very hospitable and we shared their Eid meal with them, EP sharing a Christmas cake and they let us sleep on their land.
Day 71 Thursday 26/11/09
It was time to visit the Green Mountains. We had a GPS location and a description of a cave that had not been descended to the bottom near Takinis. Upon finding the cave it sounded like it was full of pigeons. We went back to the vehicles to sort out the caving kit but the house owner came over and told us that we could not go down the cave.
We continued to an area near the village of Battah, where there was a report of 11 dolines that had not been looked at before. In the village we caused quite a stir with the locals but none of them seemed to know where any were.
Driving on, we drove to find some large dolines near Qsar Libya. After a little searching we found the location of the farm near the dolines. A local offered to show us the holes and we set off following his pick-up. The dolines were impressive holes in the ground, but we had reports that they had been descended in the past and had no cave passage at the bottom.
We found a campsite at the start of Wadi Kuf, where we planned to explore the next day.
We continued to an area near the village of Battah, where there was a report of 11 dolines that had not been looked at before. In the village we caused quite a stir with the locals but none of them seemed to know where any were.
Driving on, we drove to find some large dolines near Qsar Libya. After a little searching we found the location of the farm near the dolines. A local offered to show us the holes and we set off following his pick-up. The dolines were impressive holes in the ground, but we had reports that they had been descended in the past and had no cave passage at the bottom.
We found a campsite at the start of Wadi Kuf, where we planned to explore the next day.
Day 70 Wednesday 25/11/09
We started driving when it got light and planned for a drive of around 8 hours to reach Benghazi. All was going fine until we stopped at the road side at 11:30 for a “comfort break”. Setting off MC could see JC waving frantically in the wing mirror. Stopping, we found JC had no power on the bike! We were in the middle of nowhere and had a dead bike! After a call to the bike mechanic for any suggestions and trying to jump start the bike, JC guessed that the problem was with the ignition switch, so decided to try hot-wiring the bike. This worked and after an enforced hour break we were on the road again!
We arrived at Benghazi by evening and drove through the outskirts of the city. We camped just off the road near Dariana.
We arrived at Benghazi by evening and drove through the outskirts of the city. We camped just off the road near Dariana.
Day 69 Tuesday 24/11/09
We, again, sat around waiting for the phone call. JC got a call to meet at 1pm to pick up his bike, so whilst MC and EP waited at Ali’s farm, JC and Hussein drove back to Tripoli to collect the repaired bike. They arrived back at 3:30pm and by 4pm we were finally on the road to Benghazi.
We drove east with examples of manic driving all around. When reaching a road traffic accident cars were driving onto the opposite carriageway or onto the verge to pass the scene. We carried on in the dark and camped in the desert near Sirte.
We drove east with examples of manic driving all around. When reaching a road traffic accident cars were driving onto the opposite carriageway or onto the verge to pass the scene. We carried on in the dark and camped in the desert near Sirte.
Day 68 Monday 23/11/09
JC got a call to say the bike may be ready by lunchtime and so we hung around the farm waiting. The Land Rover got its first wash in over two months. At 2:30pm JC got a call to say that the bike may be ready at 6:00pm, so again, we all headed into Tripoli to await JC’s bike.
We met Bashir again and had a wander round the old town and went for a meal. Whilst in the restaurant JC took another call to find that the bike would not be ready tonight, so it was back to the farm again, having called in on the bike repair shop to see the bike in bits – but with the front wheel and the shock absorber mounting repaired!
We met Bashir again and had a wander round the old town and went for a meal. Whilst in the restaurant JC took another call to find that the bike would not be ready tonight, so it was back to the farm again, having called in on the bike repair shop to see the bike in bits – but with the front wheel and the shock absorber mounting repaired!
Day 67 Sunday 22/11/09
The day of judgement for the bike .... We waited at Ali’s farm for any news on the imminent repair. Ali rang for some photographs of the damage and so we put some on a memory stick and met him on the way to Tripoli. We all headed into Tripoli and had the afternoon looking round the old town, drinking coffee in coffee shops or checking emails at an internet cafe. We met Bashir, one of Hussein’s friends from Ghadames, who now works in Tripoli and speaks good English.
With no news on the bike repair we headed back to the farm for another (free) night.
With no news on the bike repair we headed back to the farm for another (free) night.
Day 66 Saturday 21/11/09
A day of disaster...... Today was anticipated as a long drive to make our way to the Green Mountains which would eventually led us on our way to Egypt for the continuation of our journey. Our Tunisian friends had warned us that Libyan drivers were crazy, yet we had not experienced any of the craziness until now ....
Near Tripoli, MC & EP narrowly missed being rammed by a green people carrier and his next target of success was JC, who was pushed on his motorbike by the impatient driver! But worse was to come. After a tasty lunch of soup, salad, pasta and chicken for £4.50, we headed to Zliten with Hussein leading, JC following, MC & EP bringing up the rear. All of a sudden, JC was stopped in the road, not going anyway, with traffic speeding past him at high speeds, MC just managed to swerve. MC screeched to a halt and ran back and found JC in shock having found a deep pothole and damaged both wheels and collapsed suspension – the motorbike was not going anywhere! By some miracle, JC was not hurt and several vehicles stopped to help him get the bike to the safety of the hard shoulder. The damage was serious enough to render the bike unroadworthy. After a 7 hour wait for a recovery vehicle, the bike and us were taken to a farm on the outskirts of Tripoli (33km to the east) where Ali kindly let us sleep.
Near Tripoli, MC & EP narrowly missed being rammed by a green people carrier and his next target of success was JC, who was pushed on his motorbike by the impatient driver! But worse was to come. After a tasty lunch of soup, salad, pasta and chicken for £4.50, we headed to Zliten with Hussein leading, JC following, MC & EP bringing up the rear. All of a sudden, JC was stopped in the road, not going anyway, with traffic speeding past him at high speeds, MC just managed to swerve. MC screeched to a halt and ran back and found JC in shock having found a deep pothole and damaged both wheels and collapsed suspension – the motorbike was not going anywhere! By some miracle, JC was not hurt and several vehicles stopped to help him get the bike to the safety of the hard shoulder. The damage was serious enough to render the bike unroadworthy. After a 7 hour wait for a recovery vehicle, the bike and us were taken to a farm on the outskirts of Tripoli (33km to the east) where Ali kindly let us sleep.
Day 65 Friday 20/11/09
A busy underground day, as we headed off early to Ain Wadi Fsat once again. JC went ahead to push the low damp crawl and completed a through trip, climbing out a shaft whilst MC & EP continued to photograph the cave and its long-eared inhabitants.
The next exploration area was 3km lower down the valley, explored, surveyed and documented by Dr Kosa from Hungary. We crawled into AN1 to see if the water levels would allow us to complete the through trip. After passing porcupine needles, bats and some reasonable-sized mammal faeces, we came to a wet, flat crawl ... we decided to believe that Kosa was right that it was sumped.
We headed back to the car and completed the AN4 to AN5 through trip, where there are man-made ledges in the entrance of AN4, for what purpose we were unsure. Interestingly, a number of dead bats were observed on the floor and on a ledge.
The final area of karst we wished to visit was to Libya’s longest cave system, Ain Umm al Massabih, a cve with 17 entrances and length of 3,593m. Using Dr Kosa’s description from the ‘80s we found ourselves on the correct road and Hussein spoke to a man who directed us to the right dirt track – which is on the way to the football pitch! It was quite late when we set off into the cave, along with Hussein completing the first section and a driver of a lorry. In the entrance series, was foul-smelling black/green muddy water, evidently there had not been rain for some considerable time. We soon left that and found ourselves in some reasonably sized passage, traversing over pools then the cave narrowed, twisting and turning, meandering in marbled walls. JC was ahead, whilst MC &EP took photos. JC never reached the end and we turned back after a couple of hours, narrowly avoiding the bats on our exit out to the dark of the Cave Hills (Zakhrat al Ghar). Hussein had set up camp, a fire was going and we settled down to another night in the mountains.
The next exploration area was 3km lower down the valley, explored, surveyed and documented by Dr Kosa from Hungary. We crawled into AN1 to see if the water levels would allow us to complete the through trip. After passing porcupine needles, bats and some reasonable-sized mammal faeces, we came to a wet, flat crawl ... we decided to believe that Kosa was right that it was sumped.
We headed back to the car and completed the AN4 to AN5 through trip, where there are man-made ledges in the entrance of AN4, for what purpose we were unsure. Interestingly, a number of dead bats were observed on the floor and on a ledge.
The final area of karst we wished to visit was to Libya’s longest cave system, Ain Umm al Massabih, a cve with 17 entrances and length of 3,593m. Using Dr Kosa’s description from the ‘80s we found ourselves on the correct road and Hussein spoke to a man who directed us to the right dirt track – which is on the way to the football pitch! It was quite late when we set off into the cave, along with Hussein completing the first section and a driver of a lorry. In the entrance series, was foul-smelling black/green muddy water, evidently there had not been rain for some considerable time. We soon left that and found ourselves in some reasonably sized passage, traversing over pools then the cave narrowed, twisting and turning, meandering in marbled walls. JC was ahead, whilst MC &EP took photos. JC never reached the end and we turned back after a couple of hours, narrowly avoiding the bats on our exit out to the dark of the Cave Hills (Zakhrat al Ghar). Hussein had set up camp, a fire was going and we settled down to another night in the mountains.
Day 64 Thursday 19/11/09
Time to hit the road again and this time we were heading to the karst area. We drove through Yefren and to the village of Bir Ayyad where Hussein asked for directions at the fuel station. They knew two of the three areas that EP had written down. Armed with this information, we headed to the old grain store of Qasr Abu an Niran, a fortified hill top grain store, as this is near the centre of the karst regions. We had a quick look round for caves and then headed to Wadi Fasat.
After a walk around, MC & EP locating on the of the connecting shafts, we followed the reeds up the dry streambed and found the entrance to this cave, Ain Wadi Fasat. The cave is 618m long and as JC went ahead locating other entrances, MC and EP took photographs. In the cave was a colony of long-eared bats, with their Bugs Bunny ears, waking up as it was getting dark. MC and EP progressed in the cave, admiring the marbled walls but stopped at a low damp crawl, whilst JC had exited one of the minor entrances to survey the other valley. As it was reasonably late, we headed back to meet Hussein who had a fire going and had prepared a pasta tea at our camp for the night.
After a walk around, MC & EP locating on the of the connecting shafts, we followed the reeds up the dry streambed and found the entrance to this cave, Ain Wadi Fasat. The cave is 618m long and as JC went ahead locating other entrances, MC and EP took photographs. In the cave was a colony of long-eared bats, with their Bugs Bunny ears, waking up as it was getting dark. MC and EP progressed in the cave, admiring the marbled walls but stopped at a low damp crawl, whilst JC had exited one of the minor entrances to survey the other valley. As it was reasonably late, we headed back to meet Hussein who had a fire going and had prepared a pasta tea at our camp for the night.
Day 63 Wednesday 18/11/09
In the morning Lufti met us and showed us around the must-see labyrinthine lanes of the old caravan city of Ghadames with covered passageways and intriguing houses. The city grew up around Ain al-Faras (Horse Fountain) and was amazing designed to provide maximum protection from the heat of the desert . Lufti had grown up in Ghadames and knew the city inside out and gave us an excellent tour.
After lunch, we started our journey east with Hussein, who spoke a little more English than Alhadi. In Derj we faced a minor crisis when there was no petrol at the fuel station for John, apparently it had ran out the day before – not a problem we were expecting given Libya’s fuel reserves! Hussein disappeared to see a friend and came back with petrol for John.
It was a long five hour journey across the desert, with few points of interest. As it became dark, the driving became harder and we passed a couple of burnt, twisted corpses of camels – a stark reminder of one of the dangers of the road apart from the Libyan drivers!
We eventually arrived at our destination for the night, Al-Qaryat. We had a delicious meal of soup, salad, spaghetti bolognaise or couscous, chicken and coffee plus a night’s basic accommodation for 12d each, about £6.
After lunch, we started our journey east with Hussein, who spoke a little more English than Alhadi. In Derj we faced a minor crisis when there was no petrol at the fuel station for John, apparently it had ran out the day before – not a problem we were expecting given Libya’s fuel reserves! Hussein disappeared to see a friend and came back with petrol for John.
It was a long five hour journey across the desert, with few points of interest. As it became dark, the driving became harder and we passed a couple of burnt, twisted corpses of camels – a stark reminder of one of the dangers of the road apart from the Libyan drivers!
We eventually arrived at our destination for the night, Al-Qaryat. We had a delicious meal of soup, salad, spaghetti bolognaise or couscous, chicken and coffee plus a night’s basic accommodation for 12d each, about £6.
Day 62 Tuesday 17/11/09
We left Jedu at 8am for the drive south to Ghadames. The 275 mile drive, across flat desert on mostly straight roads was easy (but boring). We arrived in Ghadames at 2:30pm. Ghadames is on the border with Tunisia and Algeria and is a bustling desert town which is starting to gear up for tourists wanting desert trips.
After pitching our tents in the youth hostel grounds we were taken by Alhadi’s brother (Hussein) and Lufti, an English speaking guide, for a trip into the desert to Ras al-Ghoul, an old desert castle and then into the dunes to watch the sunset (with a mass of other tourists). Once back in town we wandered into the town to find a meal by ourselves and felt like we were escaped convicts without our guard!
After pitching our tents in the youth hostel grounds we were taken by Alhadi’s brother (Hussein) and Lufti, an English speaking guide, for a trip into the desert to Ras al-Ghoul, an old desert castle and then into the dunes to watch the sunset (with a mass of other tourists). Once back in town we wandered into the town to find a meal by ourselves and felt like we were escaped convicts without our guard!
Day 61 Monday 16/11/09
We crossed the Tunisian border quickly and easily, bypassing the long queue of local cars. We had been very well looked after by the cavers of Bizerte, Zaghouan and Sfax and have some wonderful new friends – a big thank you to all of you!
We were met at the Libyan border by Alhadi, the brother of Alarbi (our guide for Libya) who sorted all the necessary paperwork out and we were through in under one hour! We had read horror stories of crossing the Libyan border with mountains of paperwork, but this was our easiest crossing to date! We did not need to show driving licences, vehicle log books or our carnets!
Alhadi did not speak much English, so the day was a little confusing, not knowing what was going on all the time. All road signs are only in Arabic so we had no idea where we were at any one time! We stopped to fuel up, paying £0.08p per litre for diesel and £0.10p per litre for unleaded! By late afternoon we stopped at a fuel station outside a town and were told that we could camp behind it for the night. The fuel station manager spoke English and we found out we were at Jedu. We drove round the back of the station and set up camp. The fuel manager then produced our first Libyan meal – our first introduction to the hospitality of Libya.
We were met at the Libyan border by Alhadi, the brother of Alarbi (our guide for Libya) who sorted all the necessary paperwork out and we were through in under one hour! We had read horror stories of crossing the Libyan border with mountains of paperwork, but this was our easiest crossing to date! We did not need to show driving licences, vehicle log books or our carnets!
Alhadi did not speak much English, so the day was a little confusing, not knowing what was going on all the time. All road signs are only in Arabic so we had no idea where we were at any one time! We stopped to fuel up, paying £0.08p per litre for diesel and £0.10p per litre for unleaded! By late afternoon we stopped at a fuel station outside a town and were told that we could camp behind it for the night. The fuel station manager spoke English and we found out we were at Jedu. We drove round the back of the station and set up camp. The fuel manager then produced our first Libyan meal – our first introduction to the hospitality of Libya.
Day 60 Sunday 15/11/09
It was time to head for the Libyan border to cross in the morning so at 10am we set off from Sousse to drive south. We had an appointment in Sfax to meet Abdou, as he had some gifts for us.
We met Abdou and were presented with a big bag of food to keep us going into Libya. Thanks Abdou for your kindness!
It was a long drive to El-jadid and the border with Libya. We camped next to the border crossing on some waste ground, ready to cross at 9am in the morning.
We met Abdou and were presented with a big bag of food to keep us going into Libya. Thanks Abdou for your kindness!
It was a long drive to El-jadid and the border with Libya. We camped next to the border crossing on some waste ground, ready to cross at 9am in the morning.
Day 59 Saturday 14/11/09
DA hired a car so that we could all drive to Zaghouan. EP, MC, JC and DA were to go caving whilst the others went for a walk.
We went to rhar Zaghouan (Grotte du Diable or Cave of the Devil) with four members of the local caving club (Maher, Mohammed, Mourad and Sofian). The cave was a 75m deep pothole with a finely decorated chamber at the end. The only problem with this cave was the amount of loose rocks that could (and were) knocked down onto people below.
We went to rhar Zaghouan (Grotte du Diable or Cave of the Devil) with four members of the local caving club (Maher, Mohammed, Mourad and Sofian). The cave was a 75m deep pothole with a finely decorated chamber at the end. The only problem with this cave was the amount of loose rocks that could (and were) knocked down onto people below.
Saturday 5 December 2009
Day 58 Friday 13/11/09
JC set off for Zaghouan, ready for the next day and our planned caving trip with the Zaghouan Caving Club.
EP and MC had a lazy morning by the pool before walking into Sousse in the afternoon to find Wifi to catch up on emails and update the blog.
EP and MC had a lazy morning by the pool before walking into Sousse in the afternoon to find Wifi to catch up on emails and update the blog.
Day 57 Thursday 12/11/09
After a leisurely start (giving time to get some washing done) we all headed into Sousse to look round the medina and souks. EP, MC, DA and SG walked out to the catacombs museum which was only 250m long (out of the 5.5km known) and not really worth the effort of walking that far – but it was an underground trip!
Day 56 Wednesday 11/11/09
With Val on the plane home, JC, MC and EP met up in Sousse and booked into the Hotel Tour Khalef. EP’s parents arrived in Sousse today, as did Dave Appleing and Sarah Gibbs. EP’s parents were stopping at the same hotel for a week’s holiday whilst Dave and Sarah were in the sister hotel next door.
Day 55 Tueday 10/11/09
JC and VI set off back to Monastir as Val had a plane to catch the next day. Abdou took MC and EP to meet Jemel Cherif at the Institute of Industrial Management (who is working with Abdou to set up an outdoor and caving club) and the head of the new complex des jeune route port, Mr Mustafa Trigui, in Sfax to explain what caving is about to support Abdou and his fellow cavers in the formation of the caving club in Sfax.
In the evening MC and EP drove up to Monastir and car camped for the night.
Abdou then took MC and EP to the medina in Sfax to look round the shops and visit the Dar Jellouli Museum, which is an old classic courtyard house and contains traditional costumes and artifacts.
After our visit to the medina it was back to the complex des jeune for a training session in basic cave rope work for some of the new cavers of Sfax.
Sunday 22 November 2009
Libya calling
We are currently in Libya but struggling to find Wifi. When we do, we will update the blog........
Bye for now
Em, Mike and John
Bye for now
Em, Mike and John
Friday 13 November 2009
Day 54 Monday 09/11/09
We had an invite from Abdou to visit Sfax, so all headed south, going via Sousse to arrange a hotel for later in the week.
We arrived in Sfax to be met by Abdou and Waleed (a Geology student and new caver). We were taken to the university and asked to give a talk to a group of students interested in trying caving. We showed the 2008 China slideshow and some pictures of British caves (thanks to the internet and the Dudley Caving Club website).
After the talk we went to the local maison des jeune to book in for the night. We were all invited to Abdou’s parents’ house for a meal and so followed Abdou on his moped.
We arrived in Sfax to be met by Abdou and Waleed (a Geology student and new caver). We were taken to the university and asked to give a talk to a group of students interested in trying caving. We showed the 2008 China slideshow and some pictures of British caves (thanks to the internet and the Dudley Caving Club website).
After the talk we went to the local maison des jeune to book in for the night. We were all invited to Abdou’s parents’ house for a meal and so followed Abdou on his moped.
Day 53 Sunday 08/11/09
We awoke at 6:30 to the sound of people putting on SRT kit. We thought we were going to visit chamber two, but found everyone exiting the cave! We headed out and got out by 10:30 only to meet a group of 20+ Polish cavers going in.
We drove back to Zaghouan and met the local cavers for a coffee and to plan a trip for the following weekend.
We drove back to Zaghouan and met the local cavers for a coffee and to plan a trip for the following weekend.
Day 52 Saturday 07/11/09
We arrived at Fahs at just before 9am and waited for the Bizerte cavers to arrive. We all met up (all 15 of us) and drove for approx 90 minutes to the cave (Grotte de la Mine or rhar djebel serdj). We were to camp inside the cave, so we all walked up the hillside, laden down with a variety of bags.
The entrance is via old mine workings and descends two inclines (abseils) and an old iron ladder into the large first chamber. It took a long time to get all persons into the cave as the Bizerte cavers need to share SRT kits. Once in we set off for a look round this impressive chamber, after a quick, impromptu disco thanks to JC and his ipod! Later in the evening some of the group settled down to sleep, others went off to visit the “chimney” and the Brits stayed behind to photograph the chamber. At 11:30pm we attempted to get some sleep.
The entrance is via old mine workings and descends two inclines (abseils) and an old iron ladder into the large first chamber. It took a long time to get all persons into the cave as the Bizerte cavers need to share SRT kits. Once in we set off for a look round this impressive chamber, after a quick, impromptu disco thanks to JC and his ipod! Later in the evening some of the group settled down to sleep, others went off to visit the “chimney” and the Brits stayed behind to photograph the chamber. At 11:30pm we attempted to get some sleep.
Day 51 Friday 06/11/09
Driving north for the day, we headed back for a night in Zaghouan. We needed to be in Fahs, 25km from Zaghouan by 8am the next morning to meet the Bizerte Caving Club for a two-day caving trip. We booked back in at the maison des jeune (youth centre) and bumped into some of the Zaghouan cavers (who were quite surprised to see us).
A quick sms to the Bizerte cavers and we find we have an extra hour in the morning before meeting them.
A quick sms to the Bizerte cavers and we find we have an extra hour in the morning before meeting them.
Day 50 Thursday 05/11/09
The plan was to head for the small town of Mides and walk down the gorge nearby. We were on our way by 7:30, driving to Mides. We got into the gorge after beating off local guides and coffee sellers and walked down, following the stream, until we were stopped by a large pool of water and our need to be back on the road.
We then drove across a large salt lake (Chott el-Jerid) to Douz and then on to Matmata and a below ground hotel (the Marhala). We booked half-board for 16 Dinars each (about £8.00)!
We then drove across a large salt lake (Chott el-Jerid) to Douz and then on to Matmata and a below ground hotel (the Marhala). We booked half-board for 16 Dinars each (about £8.00)!
Day 49 Wednesday 04/11/09
After saying goodbye to the youth centre director (and getting our room fees back), we started the long drive south to the Saraha and the town of Tozeur. We arrived in town by late afternoon and found a campsite.
Wednesday 4 November 2009
Day 48 Tuesday 03/11/09
We met the Zaghouan cavers at 7:30 and went next door for a coffee. After loading up the kit we drove off to the nearby mountain to find the cave (Ete 2000 (Summer 2000)). Eight of us set off up the hill, the four Brits and Ghassen, Sofien, Mourad and Abdou (a new caver from Sfax who caves with the Bizerte club).
After a steep scramble down the mountain side to the cave entrance, Ghassen went in to rig. The cave is a vertical system with a couple of awkward rebelays. As VI had done no SRT underground yet, she and JC decided to give this cave a miss. At the entrance we also discovered that this was one of Abdou’s first vertical trips. The six of us headed down slowly with MC and EP giving some tips and guidance on rigging techniques.
Coming out MC and EP went first, taking some photos on the way. Leaving the bottom of the cave Abdou was hit on the thigh by a large stone causing him some discomfort! This slowed down the exit and it was dark before all were out of the cave and it derigged. We all scrambled back up the mountain and down the road to the parked cars. We arrived back at the youth centre by 7:30pm, slightly later than planned!
We were taken out for a meal by the cavers and the meal, plus our accommodation was to be paid for by the youth centre of Zaghouan which was a very pleasant surprise to us all.
After a steep scramble down the mountain side to the cave entrance, Ghassen went in to rig. The cave is a vertical system with a couple of awkward rebelays. As VI had done no SRT underground yet, she and JC decided to give this cave a miss. At the entrance we also discovered that this was one of Abdou’s first vertical trips. The six of us headed down slowly with MC and EP giving some tips and guidance on rigging techniques.
Coming out MC and EP went first, taking some photos on the way. Leaving the bottom of the cave Abdou was hit on the thigh by a large stone causing him some discomfort! This slowed down the exit and it was dark before all were out of the cave and it derigged. We all scrambled back up the mountain and down the road to the parked cars. We arrived back at the youth centre by 7:30pm, slightly later than planned!
We were taken out for a meal by the cavers and the meal, plus our accommodation was to be paid for by the youth centre of Zaghouan which was a very pleasant surprise to us all.
Day 47 Monday 02/11/09
We had a caving trip planned for the next day with the Zaghouan Caving Club (thanks to Mohsen), so we all decided to meet in Zaghouan in the afternoon.
JC and VI rode up from Monastir whilst EP and MC drove from the hotel in Teboursouk to Tunis. The guidebook described a hotel and cafe in Tunis that had free Wifi, so we thought we could get a coffee an update the (very out of date) blog. We sat in the hotel foyer with a cup of coffee and a coke and spent two hours on the internet.
We all met at the youth centre at 5:30 and were met by some of the caving club. Their club HQ is based at the youth centre and we had a look round and discussed the next day’s trip. They then took us out for a coffee at a nearby coffee house, before arranging to meet the next day at 7:00am for breakfast.
JC and VI rode up from Monastir whilst EP and MC drove from the hotel in Teboursouk to Tunis. The guidebook described a hotel and cafe in Tunis that had free Wifi, so we thought we could get a coffee an update the (very out of date) blog. We sat in the hotel foyer with a cup of coffee and a coke and spent two hours on the internet.
We all met at the youth centre at 5:30 and were met by some of the caving club. Their club HQ is based at the youth centre and we had a look round and discussed the next day’s trip. They then took us out for a coffee at a nearby coffee house, before arranging to meet the next day at 7:00am for breakfast.
Monday 2 November 2009
Day 46 Sunday 01/11/09
We joined some of the cavers and a group of people connected by Facebook for an excursion organised by Mohsen to the ancient sites of Bulla Regia, Chemtou and then to the National Park El Feija on the Algerian border. At the park, the Tunisians spent a long time photographing a stag – they were quite amazed when we explained that we have too many so they are culled and we eat them!
Most of the Tunisians had never been to any of these sites, and have not really explored their own country. They were a very friendly group of people and we had some excellent translators, especially Aida (a big thank you!).
Upon leaving the park, we were stopped by National Guard, asking us many questions that we simply could not understand. We were very grateful when the coach stopped and Mohsen and Hamza appeared to explain that we were with them!
Most of the Tunisians had never been to any of these sites, and have not really explored their own country. They were a very friendly group of people and we had some excellent translators, especially Aida (a big thank you!).
Upon leaving the park, we were stopped by National Guard, asking us many questions that we simply could not understand. We were very grateful when the coach stopped and Mohsen and Hamza appeared to explain that we were with them!
Day 45 Saturday 31/10/09
We met Hamza at the club HQ in the youth centre after emptying the Land Rover (quite a task) to fit two more people in. After packing the kit, we drove to Tunis to pick up Myriam before heading west to Nefza.
The cave is a short but steep walk up a hillside, just outside the village. After a short crawl into the cave we met a sloping pitch down into the first chamber. This was rigged with a ladder and lifeline. The cave has three chambers in which we attempted some photographs.
We came out at dusk and had a walk back to the car in the dark. Waiting for us was the National Guard, who wanted our names and ID numbers (we left the talking to Hamza and Myriam).
Having dropped Hamza and Myriam back in Tunis, we drove back to Bizerte, getting back to the youth centre at 10:30pm.
The cave is a short but steep walk up a hillside, just outside the village. After a short crawl into the cave we met a sloping pitch down into the first chamber. This was rigged with a ladder and lifeline. The cave has three chambers in which we attempted some photographs.
We came out at dusk and had a walk back to the car in the dark. Waiting for us was the National Guard, who wanted our names and ID numbers (we left the talking to Hamza and Myriam).
Having dropped Hamza and Myriam back in Tunis, we drove back to Bizerte, getting back to the youth centre at 10:30pm.
Day 44 Friday 30/10/09
Drove into Tunis to meet Mohsen and his wife and visit the capital. When Mohsen and his wife had to leave we were passed to Anouar (another caver from Bizerte) and his fianceé. They took us into the Medina to buy some makhroud, look at all the toy camels and barter for us! In the afternoon we were joined by Amine who took us via the local train service to Sidi Bou Said, a small town to the south of Tunis, popular with tourists. Mohsen joined us at the end of the afternoon in Sidi Bou Said before driving us back to Tunis to collect our car.
As we had a caving trip arranged for the next day, EP and MC drove back to Bizerte to stay at the youth centre for another couple of nights.
As we had a caving trip arranged for the next day, EP and MC drove back to Bizerte to stay at the youth centre for another couple of nights.
Day 43 Thursday 29/10/09
Leaving Sbeitla we drove north to El Kef and had a short walk around the town. We then drove on to Dougga, which has a Roman town (a world heritage site) above it. For 4 dinars each and 1 dinar for a camera, we had an hour walking round this well preserved site.
For the night we decided to car camp near Teboursouk, as it was on our way to Tunis, where we were to meet some of the cavers from the Bizerte caving club the next day.
For the night we decided to car camp near Teboursouk, as it was on our way to Tunis, where we were to meet some of the cavers from the Bizerte caving club the next day.
Day 42 Wednesday 28/10/09
Getting up early, in the mist, we drove down off Jugurtha’s Table to head for Tunisia’s highest mountain, but within 5km of leaving, we had our passports and details phoned through twice! Jebel Chambi is Tunisia’s highest mountain at 1544m in its own National Park near Kasserine. After a passport check at the entrance, we were allowed in. The guidebook describes a two hour walk after a drive up a rough 4x4 track. We started driving up a steep metalled road and ended up at 1500m next to some telecom masts. It was a 5 minute walk to the summit!
After driving down and out of the national park, we headed for Sbeitla and a lovely small hotel getting a double room and breakfast for approx. £13 for the two of us. We also met a French caver here, on holiday with his family.
After driving down and out of the national park, we headed for Sbeitla and a lovely small hotel getting a double room and breakfast for approx. £13 for the two of us. We also met a French caver here, on holiday with his family.
Day 41 Tuesday 27/10/09
We left Bizerte at 9:00am to drive south. The plan was to head for Jugurtha’s Table, a flat topped mountain near the Algerian border, close to the town of Kalaat es-Senan.
Close to our destination we were stopped at a National Guard checkpoint and were asked for our passports. After a phone call we were handed back our passports and allowed to continue. The guidebook described a two hour walk to reach the top and back, but we found a 4x4 track which lead almost to the summit! A short, 10 minute walk up stone steps, and we were on the top.
Getting back to the car just before dusk, we found a group of Italians had set up camp. We decided to car camp there too. After cooking tea, we were sat reading in the Land Rover when headlights appeared in the darkness. A pair of National Guards had come up to check all passports. Having rung in our details we were bid goodnight.
Today was the day JC would start his ride from Spain to Genoa, in Italy, to catch the ferry to Tunisia on Saturday.
Close to our destination we were stopped at a National Guard checkpoint and were asked for our passports. After a phone call we were handed back our passports and allowed to continue. The guidebook described a two hour walk to reach the top and back, but we found a 4x4 track which lead almost to the summit! A short, 10 minute walk up stone steps, and we were on the top.
Getting back to the car just before dusk, we found a group of Italians had set up camp. We decided to car camp there too. After cooking tea, we were sat reading in the Land Rover when headlights appeared in the darkness. A pair of National Guards had come up to check all passports. Having rung in our details we were bid goodnight.
Today was the day JC would start his ride from Spain to Genoa, in Italy, to catch the ferry to Tunisia on Saturday.
Day 40 Monday 26/10/09
We met Mohsen and Amine for coffee before they went to work and then went into Bizerte for a look around the town, a visit to an internet cafe (we’re getting quicker with Arabic keyboards) and bought some oil for the 6,000 mile service of the Land Rover.
Back at the youth centre, Mike serviced the Land Rover, ready for the next 6,000 miles.
Back at the youth centre, Mike serviced the Land Rover, ready for the next 6,000 miles.
Day 39 Sunday 25/10/09
Docked at 12:30, two hours ahead of schedule and spent over two hours getting through customs. We were met by four friendly members of the Bizerte Caving Club at the port. After a quick coffee stop in Tunis, we followed them up the coast to Bizerte and their club HQ at the youth centre. We discovered that caving is tightly controlled in Tunisia with written permission required from the local government before a trip can take place! Cavers need to report to the National Guard in the town nearest the cave before entering the system. There will be no solo caving trips for the Brits!
We booked a room at the centre for 8TD each per night.
We booked a room at the centre for 8TD each per night.
Day 38 Saturday 24/10/09
We drove to the port and stopped at the shopping centre next to the ferry terminal. Went to McDonalds because it advertised Wifi. Unfortunately Wifi is only available to those with an Italian mobile phone! After calling in at the supermarket we tried to find the ferry terminal. Poor signage and a lack of Italian did not help, but we eventually got into the queue for the ferry – by better luck than judgement!
Day 37 Friday 23/10/09
Continued the drive to Genoa, hoping to find a Wifi area to update the blog. Genoa was busy and manic. We continued to the east of Genoa, still finding no campsites. Again it was back onto the motorway to find a service area to car camp.
JC, needing more treatment for his leg is still in Spain and has delayed his ferry crossing by one week.
JC, needing more treatment for his leg is still in Spain and has delayed his ferry crossing by one week.
Day 36 Thursday 22/10/09
Drove along French coastline and found a small town with a supermarket and laundrette. Had a clothes washing session to catch up on a month of washing! Carried on driving across the Italian border. Due to the lack of campsites open, we decided to head onto the motorway and find a services to car camp at, after a pizza in a small restaurant in a town just over the border.
Day 35 Wednesday 21/10/09
Ferry diverted to Marseille due to bad weather in the night and through the morning. This worked well for MC and EP as it put them further east on the way to Genoa. We landed to heavy rain and strong winds at 11:15am and waited to get out of the port past customs as they searched the mass of Moroccan vans loaded to their roofs!
We drove east for the day through heavy rain and strong winds, reaching Saint Raphael by 19:30 and booked into a hotel for the night.
We drove east for the day through heavy rain and strong winds, reaching Saint Raphael by 19:30 and booked into a hotel for the night.
Day 34 Tuesday 20/10/09
Spent the day on the ferry crossing the Med to Sete in France. JC got new tyres for the bike and had treatment on his leg (from the burn) in Spain.
Day 33 Monday 19/10/09
A lazy day was spent around Al Hoceima before driving back to Nador to catch the 23:58 ferry to France. The port is out of the town and poorly signed. Upon arrival at the port we had two hours of chaos, not knowing where to go for passports to be stamped and vehicle import docs to be cancelled etc. Maybe it was our inability to speak French or Arabic, but we did not have a clue what was going on! Eventually we got the paperwork sorted, found the right ferry and got on board. Our cabin was a tiny hovel that was supposed to sleep four! Toilets and showers were shared and were not in the best of condition. The whole boat was old and pretty tatty!
Day 32 Sunday 18/10/09
We were up early and before 8am, we had walked up to the Grottes des Pigeons, a cave that has been excavated by Oxford University. We could only look into the entrance as the archaeological work appears to be ongoing.
Leaving this area we drove west, along the coast to Al Hoceima and the national park just outside the town. We spent the night in peaceful isolation in the national park, camping in the Land Rover for a second night. Well, almost peaceful isolation, apart from a scary 30 mins when an animal in pain could be heard but not seen howling very close to us – wild dog, leopard, wolf, fox, we did not know as we could not find the body in the morning.
Leaving this area we drove west, along the coast to Al Hoceima and the national park just outside the town. We spent the night in peaceful isolation in the national park, camping in the Land Rover for a second night. Well, almost peaceful isolation, apart from a scary 30 mins when an animal in pain could be heard but not seen howling very close to us – wild dog, leopard, wolf, fox, we did not know as we could not find the body in the morning.
Day 31 Saturday 17/10/09
We said our goodbyes to Fatima, Sara and the boys, and together with Aziz and Radwan we went to Taza. We picked up some supplies, were given a goody bag from Radwan, had a drink, then hit the road to Nador. Once in Nador, we booked the ferry to Sete in France (sailing Monday night), then headed to the mountains of Beni-Snassen.
These mountains are fairly close to Algeria and are part of a national park. We drove up the fertile Zegzel Gorge and looked at the entrance of Grottes de Chameau at dusk. Unfortunately, whilst this used to have been a show cave, the way on has been blocked after flood damage.
As it was getting dark, we found a suitable place to put the Land Rover, although spoilt by the litter everywhere, despite the national park status.
These mountains are fairly close to Algeria and are part of a national park. We drove up the fertile Zegzel Gorge and looked at the entrance of Grottes de Chameau at dusk. Unfortunately, whilst this used to have been a show cave, the way on has been blocked after flood damage.
As it was getting dark, we found a suitable place to put the Land Rover, although spoilt by the litter everywhere, despite the national park status.
Day 30 Friday 16/10/09
Whilst JC headed to Melilla to take a ferry to Spain, needing a head start to purchase new tyres, MC and EP spent the morning teaching Aziz and Radwan SRT basics. The Land Rover was later repacked for our departure and we went a short walk around Bab boudir.
Day 29 Thursday 15/10/09
Aziz took us to another area of unexplored shafts, and we left the vehicles at the village of Ain Bechar after another tea stop. We headed up the mountains of Igiwan Lkikab, joined by the “mountain goat”, Mustafa. Mustafa knows this area very well due to looking after the family sheep and led us to three shafts.
The hike up took some time, as there were no paths, we merely follow the tracks of sheep, over limestone pavements and upwards. The first shaft was fairly shallow and descended by JC on a lifeline, but was blocked with mud. The next area we went to had two shafts very close together, both of which were descended but with no way on.
As we finished our descent of the hillside, we had more tea and tried the local, delicious honey.
The hike up took some time, as there were no paths, we merely follow the tracks of sheep, over limestone pavements and upwards. The first shaft was fairly shallow and descended by JC on a lifeline, but was blocked with mud. The next area we went to had two shafts very close together, both of which were descended but with no way on.
As we finished our descent of the hillside, we had more tea and tried the local, delicious honey.
Day 28 Wednesday 14/10/09
So all the team could go underground together, rather than one or two shaft-bashing, we decided to spend the day at the well-known, Chaara Cave. The drive took longer than anticipated as the track was no longer used and after about 2 hours off-roading we reached our destination. This cave was explored and dived in the early ‘80’s by Cerberus members. We entered the main entrance down the mud slope and whilst JC and Radwan led, Aziz, MC and EP undertook some photography in the well-decorated river passage. Unfortunately, the cave carries a large stream in winter and together with the stream, all the local rubbish, resulting in the water being quite polluted. We soon reached the others who had turned back.
The locals on the surface were very friendly and knew of many other caves in the area – for a future trip.
The locals on the surface were very friendly and knew of many other caves in the area – for a future trip.
Day 26 Monday 12/10/09
Aziz had organised a trip into the nearby hills to show us some previously unexplored potholes. Sara (Aziz’s sister-in-law) joined us along with the family donkey to carry the caving kit (a good idea for Gaping Gill!). In the hills we were shown a small cave of about 30m in length that had seen plenty of local traffic.
We then met two shepherds who told us of some shafts that they had found and took us to see them. The first was rigged and descended by MC, which was a 40m blind shaft. It was blocked at the bottom with mud. It may well be a future digging project – but not for us!
The second shaft was smaller and due to drill battery failure and a shortage of natural re-belays it could not be bottomed. A disto measurement was taken and it was 33m deep and we believed it also to be blind.
The third shaft was a large open shaft that reminded us of Alum Pot in the Dales. MC again rigged and descended the shaft which was possible off two natural belays straight down to the bottom 40m away. This too was a blind shaft, full of mud at the bottom.
As we headed back off the hills, a slight panic ensued as we could not find where we had left the donkey .... it was eventually found much to our relief!
We then met two shepherds who told us of some shafts that they had found and took us to see them. The first was rigged and descended by MC, which was a 40m blind shaft. It was blocked at the bottom with mud. It may well be a future digging project – but not for us!
The second shaft was smaller and due to drill battery failure and a shortage of natural re-belays it could not be bottomed. A disto measurement was taken and it was 33m deep and we believed it also to be blind.
The third shaft was a large open shaft that reminded us of Alum Pot in the Dales. MC again rigged and descended the shaft which was possible off two natural belays straight down to the bottom 40m away. This too was a blind shaft, full of mud at the bottom.
As we headed back off the hills, a slight panic ensued as we could not find where we had left the donkey .... it was eventually found much to our relief!
Day 27 Tuesday 13/10/09
Today we were to search for more undescended shafts. A relative of Aziz, Karim, had found some entrances whilst looking for lost sheep. We collected Karim from his flock and put him in the back of the Land Rover with EP for an hour’s off-road track to an isolated valley, Zaarour Valley. Whilst driving the track JC managed to fall off his bike twice!
When in the valley and unpacking we realised that MC’s SRT kit was missing. It must have been lost on yesterday’s walk out. JC and Aziz went back on the bike to try and locate the missing kit, whilst MC went with Karim to locate and GPS the cave entrances. One was a simple 15m blind, open shaft whilst the other two had smaller entrances and stones seemed to rattle deeper down.
Using EP’s SRT kit and a 40m rope, MC rigged one of the entrances and started to descend. At 26m the bottom could not be seen but there was a rock bridge, so MC pendulumed across and placed a bolt on the bridge for a rebelay. The remainder of the rope was used as a traverse across the bridge to a side of the shaft away from rockfall from the surface. Two bolts were installed for the next pitch and MC then climbed back out for more rope and to recharge the drill battery.
Upon reaching the Land Rover, JC and Aziz were back with the missing SRT kit. After recharging the battery and collecting a 70m rope, MC and EP went to continue the shaft whilst JC went for a look in a cave at the valley bottom that the French had explored a few years before. MC went down to the rock bridge and continued deeper into the cave, placing two more rebelays before bottoming out at 88m. EP stayed on the rock bridge to photograph MC as he came back up.
When in the valley and unpacking we realised that MC’s SRT kit was missing. It must have been lost on yesterday’s walk out. JC and Aziz went back on the bike to try and locate the missing kit, whilst MC went with Karim to locate and GPS the cave entrances. One was a simple 15m blind, open shaft whilst the other two had smaller entrances and stones seemed to rattle deeper down.
Using EP’s SRT kit and a 40m rope, MC rigged one of the entrances and started to descend. At 26m the bottom could not be seen but there was a rock bridge, so MC pendulumed across and placed a bolt on the bridge for a rebelay. The remainder of the rope was used as a traverse across the bridge to a side of the shaft away from rockfall from the surface. Two bolts were installed for the next pitch and MC then climbed back out for more rope and to recharge the drill battery.
Upon reaching the Land Rover, JC and Aziz were back with the missing SRT kit. After recharging the battery and collecting a 70m rope, MC and EP went to continue the shaft whilst JC went for a look in a cave at the valley bottom that the French had explored a few years before. MC went down to the rock bridge and continued deeper into the cave, placing two more rebelays before bottoming out at 88m. EP stayed on the rock bridge to photograph MC as he came back up.
Day 25 Sunday 11/10/09
At breakfast, we were joined by a Berber shepherd who kept repeating one word and pointing at his gullet. We did not understand what he was saying and tried guessing by offering food and water. This was obviously wrong and he kept saying this word. He did not look too impressed at our camping spot, so we made a quick exit.....
We drove down the road a short distance before stopping for a 3 hour walk on the hillside looking for caves. On returning to the vehicles we continued down the road to Bab Boudir and Aziz’s house, where we were invited in for lunch and cups of tea. One of Aziz’s friends was there (Radwan) who lives in Taza. After lunch we headed into Taza and Radwan came with us as our guide to the souk and town.
Back at Aziz’s house we introduced his children to “Pass the pigs” which was an instant hit and we all got a much needed wash!
We drove down the road a short distance before stopping for a 3 hour walk on the hillside looking for caves. On returning to the vehicles we continued down the road to Bab Boudir and Aziz’s house, where we were invited in for lunch and cups of tea. One of Aziz’s friends was there (Radwan) who lives in Taza. After lunch we headed into Taza and Radwan came with us as our guide to the souk and town.
Back at Aziz’s house we introduced his children to “Pass the pigs” which was an instant hit and we all got a much needed wash!
Day 24 Saturday 10/10/09
After seeing one of our neighbours pass us with their flock and violin, playing as he walked, the search for fuel continued....JC used his jerry can of petrol to extend the range of the bike and we set off, guessing which way to turn at junctions. We came to a village that was of reasonable size (with no fuel station). Asking around, we discovered we could buy diesel and were shown to a shop where a man sold fuel from barrels. We bought 20 litres of overpriced diesel to keep the Land Rover going (we still had a couple of gallons in the reserve tank, just in case). Setting off, the Land Rover started emitting clouds of blue smoke for the first time and we suspected it was due to the poor quality fuel. Luckily a few kms further on we came across a fuel station and road signs!
After filling up both Land Rover (plus reserve tank) and bike (plus a jerry can) we headed for the town of Sefrou. We were finally on maps that we had! An hour was spent walking round the Medina and having a coffee at a cafe before setting off to find a road back towards Taza.
Late in the afternoon we stopped 25km outside Bab Boudir to look at a depression next to the road. We met a local shepherd who told us to camp here on a grassy patch below the road. He also told us of a large cave one hour’s walk up the mountain. We set up camp and started to cook tea in the dark when along came the shepherd and his two sons to see the strange English cavers. They were none too impressed with Earl Grey tea and decided instead to practice their pyromania on some nearby bushes. Given all the signs warning about not having fires, we were even more surprised when other locals started doing the same!
After filling up both Land Rover (plus reserve tank) and bike (plus a jerry can) we headed for the town of Sefrou. We were finally on maps that we had! An hour was spent walking round the Medina and having a coffee at a cafe before setting off to find a road back towards Taza.
Late in the afternoon we stopped 25km outside Bab Boudir to look at a depression next to the road. We met a local shepherd who told us to camp here on a grassy patch below the road. He also told us of a large cave one hour’s walk up the mountain. We set up camp and started to cook tea in the dark when along came the shepherd and his two sons to see the strange English cavers. They were none too impressed with Earl Grey tea and decided instead to practice their pyromania on some nearby bushes. Given all the signs warning about not having fires, we were even more surprised when other locals started doing the same!
Day 23 Friday 09/10/09
It was decided that we would visit a show cave, Gouffre Friouato that was 6km away and Aziz came along to show us other caves in the area, including the entrance of Chiker Cave.
After the show cave we drove south to find an area of new cave potential as described by the Casablancan cavers. Having driven for some time we realised that we could not relate our location to the sketch map that we had. We were now on no map that we had and there were no road signs either. Both vehicles were getting low on fuel but JC still had a jerry can of petrol in the Land Rover. We carried on driving, hoping to find a village with fuel. We got to a village we were told had fuel, but it only had about four houses!
Driving on, we came across some men working on a new road and asked for directions. They said that in 60km there was a town with fuel. It was getting late and we pressed on. Driving through the mountains we found a remote and peaceful valley with grass, opposite some shepherds and set up camp.
After the show cave we drove south to find an area of new cave potential as described by the Casablancan cavers. Having driven for some time we realised that we could not relate our location to the sketch map that we had. We were now on no map that we had and there were no road signs either. Both vehicles were getting low on fuel but JC still had a jerry can of petrol in the Land Rover. We carried on driving, hoping to find a village with fuel. We got to a village we were told had fuel, but it only had about four houses!
Driving on, we came across some men working on a new road and asked for directions. They said that in 60km there was a town with fuel. It was getting late and we pressed on. Driving through the mountains we found a remote and peaceful valley with grass, opposite some shepherds and set up camp.
Day 22 Thursday 08/10/09
The plan was to drive to the next caving area, near Taza in the north east. We broke camp early and set off at 8am. It was a 10 hour drive and we arrived at Bab Boudir in the dark. With no sign of a campsite as described in the Lonely Planet guide, we saw a light at a small shop and stopped to ask for directions.
Speaking good English, Aziz told us we could camp on the “village green” and we were invited for a meal and tea. Once the tents were up we headed over to the shop which was promptly closed and we all headed up to Aziz’s house
Speaking good English, Aziz told us we could camp on the “village green” and we were invited for a meal and tea. Once the tents were up we headed over to the shop which was promptly closed and we all headed up to Aziz’s house
Day 21 Wednesday 07/10/09
The day was to be spent at the same campsite to catch up on clothes washing. We drove to Outesite for some internet access and buy some fresh food. It turned out to be market day and the small town was very busy. EP and MC spent an hour on dial-up internet access whilst JC went for a wander.
After buying some fruit, veg, eggs and bread we drove back to camp. It was very hot and the clothes dried well.
After buying some fruit, veg, eggs and bread we drove back to camp. It was very hot and the clothes dried well.
Day 20 Tuesday 06/10/09
We packed up camp and were walking back by 8am. Arriving back at the shepherd’s hut and our vehicles we packed our kit and headed down on the off-road track. Abdellah sent JC down different route that turned out to be down a steep, narrow river bed and resulted in a burn on JC’s leg.
On reaching Tarmac, we headed north to Azilal and on to Ben El Oudaine where we found a campsite.
On reaching Tarmac, we headed north to Azilal and on to Ben El Oudaine where we found a campsite.
Day 18 Sunday 04/10/09
We left Tabant at 10am after Abdellah finished shopping for provisions. We drove down the valley before having a 10 mile off-road track to a shepherd hut, high in the mountains. The Land Rover spent all of the time in low ratio 2nd gear with the occasional bit of diff-lock. JC managed to get the bike plus Abdellah up the track. At the hut we met the two Mohammeds and their mules. The walk was supposed to be 3 hours until at the hut it was now a 5 hour walk! The camping and caving gear was loaded onto the mules and we all set off for a 4.5 hour walk to our camp at 10,000 feet in the High Atlas, arriving at camp at 6pm.
Moroccans do not name their mules, but EP decided that ours were Muffin and Eyore much to the amusement of their owners! Upon arriving at the camp we were told that a French expedition had been there 15 years ago.
Moroccans do not name their mules, but EP decided that ours were Muffin and Eyore much to the amusement of their owners! Upon arriving at the camp we were told that a French expedition had been there 15 years ago.
Day 19 Monday 05/10/09
After breakfast we climbed into caving gear to investigate a couple of holes that the Moroccans had seen. At one of the holes a large red “52” was painted on the rock. Not a good sign for virgin cave! At another hole near-by, Mohammed Eyore had dropped his coat so we decided to investigate this shaft and retrieve his coat. JC and the Moroccans free climbed down into the depression and looked down the shaft. It was decided to drop a rope from the top, down into the depression and continue down the shaft.MC and EP rigged a rope round a large boulder and hung the rope down. MC descended to the end of the rope and ended up on a small ledge with the pitch continuing. It was whilst looking for a suitable bolt position did he notice a rusty spit. We had been beaten by the French again! After ascending the rope a faded red painted “A53” was spotted.
We decided that all the shafts would have been investigated by the previous expedition, but JC spotted a small slot that felt that it was drafting. Having crawled in it was going, dropping through large breakdown to a small pitch. MC and EP then went in with a rope to rig the pitch. MC rigged the rope and descended 4m to a rebelay and down another 2m. The passage sloped down and soon ended. We estimated the length of the cave to be 50m in total but it looked virgin cave!
We decided that all the shafts would have been investigated by the previous expedition, but JC spotted a small slot that felt that it was drafting. Having crawled in it was going, dropping through large breakdown to a small pitch. MC and EP then went in with a rope to rig the pitch. MC rigged the rope and descended 4m to a rebelay and down another 2m. The passage sloped down and soon ended. We estimated the length of the cave to be 50m in total but it looked virgin cave!
Day 17 Saturday 03/10/09
We were told of cave near a village up the valley called Tawaya. It was said that no foreign cavers had been down this cave and there was a pitch to a river. It was possible to drive, off road to within a 15 minute walk of the cave entrance.
We drove with Abdellah on the back of JC’s bike and parked in a dry river bed, 2 minutes from the cave. Unfortunately the recent bad weather had completely filled the cave entrance with stones. So Abdellah, JC and a local went up the hillside to look at other entrances that the local knew of. When they came back down JC had two small entrances to look in, so we packed up some lightweight caving kit, survey kit and some photography gear and headed up the hillside in the midday heat!
We picked our way up the steep hillside to a cave entrance. JC crawled in first followed by MC and EP. After a short crawl we entered a chamber which continued in a small tube. JC stopped in another small chamber and you could hear water dripping and echoing. MC pushed on, only to be confronted by a sump in the bottom of the chamber. The cave was surveyed out (approx. 90m).
Another smaller cave entrance, lower down the hillside, had been seen by JC, so we headed for this. JC squeezed in but it ended at approx 5m.
On the way back to Tabant, JC got the first puncture of the trip. This was soon mended in the village at the local tyre repair shop at a cost of £2.00. We all headed back to Abdellah’s gite, joined by Tanya and Abdellah. There was talk of a long, horizontal cave in the High Atlas mountains. It would be a one day walk-in with mules. We decided to spend the next three days exploring this area.
We drove with Abdellah on the back of JC’s bike and parked in a dry river bed, 2 minutes from the cave. Unfortunately the recent bad weather had completely filled the cave entrance with stones. So Abdellah, JC and a local went up the hillside to look at other entrances that the local knew of. When they came back down JC had two small entrances to look in, so we packed up some lightweight caving kit, survey kit and some photography gear and headed up the hillside in the midday heat!
We picked our way up the steep hillside to a cave entrance. JC crawled in first followed by MC and EP. After a short crawl we entered a chamber which continued in a small tube. JC stopped in another small chamber and you could hear water dripping and echoing. MC pushed on, only to be confronted by a sump in the bottom of the chamber. The cave was surveyed out (approx. 90m).
Another smaller cave entrance, lower down the hillside, had been seen by JC, so we headed for this. JC squeezed in but it ended at approx 5m.
On the way back to Tabant, JC got the first puncture of the trip. This was soon mended in the village at the local tyre repair shop at a cost of £2.00. We all headed back to Abdellah’s gite, joined by Tanya and Abdellah. There was talk of a long, horizontal cave in the High Atlas mountains. It would be a one day walk-in with mules. We decided to spend the next three days exploring this area.
Day 16 Friday 02/10/09
We drove round to Tabant, passing many mountain bikers on the rough roads. One cyclist hitching a ride up a steep hill by holding onto the Land Rover roof rack to catch up effortlessly with his mates. JC gave a few locals lifts on the back of his bike along the route. Our tourist map showed a symbol of a cave at Tabant but when we got there it was a busy village with no sign of caves.
We decided to head on but as we drove out of the village we were flagged down by a car and inside were Tanya (British) and Adbellah Bouhrazen (her husband) and Abdellah (his cousin). They had noticed the British number plates on the vehicles in the village and because very few British people travel to this valley, Tanya wanted to know what we were doing. We explained that we were looking for caves and Abdellah, who is a mountain guide in Morocco explained that he knew of some and would we like to go for tea and a chat. Here the day changed for the better and in a way that none of us would have guessed.
We called in a cafe for tea and then went with them to Abdellah’s grandma’s house for a traditional lunch. We arranged to stop at the other Abdellah’s gite (mountain guide also) in the next village and go to find caves the next day.
We decided to head on but as we drove out of the village we were flagged down by a car and inside were Tanya (British) and Adbellah Bouhrazen (her husband) and Abdellah (his cousin). They had noticed the British number plates on the vehicles in the village and because very few British people travel to this valley, Tanya wanted to know what we were doing. We explained that we were looking for caves and Abdellah, who is a mountain guide in Morocco explained that he knew of some and would we like to go for tea and a chat. Here the day changed for the better and in a way that none of us would have guessed.
We called in a cafe for tea and then went with them to Abdellah’s grandma’s house for a traditional lunch. We arranged to stop at the other Abdellah’s gite (mountain guide also) in the next village and go to find caves the next day.
Day 15 Thursday 01/10/09
Spent the day with our guide Mohammed and did a traverse of the mountain behind the gite. Walked for 7 hours looking for caves but found only rock shelters. Near the end of the walk we found some short caves that were extended by man, one with a water supply at the end which was piped away. We stayed another night at the gite before heading further round the trail.
Monday 26 October 2009
Day 14 Wednesday 30/09/09
EP and MC were up early whilst JC's snores could be heard echoing down the vally. A local inquisitive Berber in shades and a long mac came and sat near us for a while. EP went to talk to him, discovering that there was another cave across the valley but quite a walk in.
After breaking camp we set off to the top of the road of the mine, but given the weather of the previous night and the condition of the road, we decided to walk down the track. Wemet the same man at the top of the road and he joined us for the walk down, collecting firewood along the way. Once at his house he disappeared and returned bearing delicicous small plums and invited us to eat a meal, although we declined having just had breakfast.
At the end of the track we were shown the mine below us which we later discovered to be a lead mine. Our aim was to descend below the mine to a gorge to a cave that the Professor had found but not surveyed. As our lack of local language got the better of us, we gave Ayoub a call and qsked him to speak to the local. The cave we were aiming for was full of water but we were told that the man knew of other caves and we should wait for his friend to join us. Two hours later and a cup of mint tea, his friend had not shown up so he drew a map. The cave was the one the man in the mac had pointed out and could be seen in a chunk of what looked like Sandstone partway down a cliff. Wedecided not to explore this one and headed on to Zaoulat Ahansal.
At the village we were guided to a gite for the night.
After breaking camp we set off to the top of the road of the mine, but given the weather of the previous night and the condition of the road, we decided to walk down the track. Wemet the same man at the top of the road and he joined us for the walk down, collecting firewood along the way. Once at his house he disappeared and returned bearing delicicous small plums and invited us to eat a meal, although we declined having just had breakfast.
At the end of the track we were shown the mine below us which we later discovered to be a lead mine. Our aim was to descend below the mine to a gorge to a cave that the Professor had found but not surveyed. As our lack of local language got the better of us, we gave Ayoub a call and qsked him to speak to the local. The cave we were aiming for was full of water but we were told that the man knew of other caves and we should wait for his friend to join us. Two hours later and a cup of mint tea, his friend had not shown up so he drew a map. The cave was the one the man in the mac had pointed out and could be seen in a chunk of what looked like Sandstone partway down a cliff. Wedecided not to explore this one and headed on to Zaoulat Ahansal.
At the village we were guided to a gite for the night.
Day 13 Tuesday 29/09/09
Left Beni Mellal and headed for the mountains, up twisting regional roads with the scenery changing dramatically. We eventually reached the dam of Bin El Ouidane where we were told by a soldier not to take photos (which we already had!). We drove to Ouaouizeght where we mistakenly drove into a Government/Military compound and were asked promptly to leave!
We headed for the hills and rough roads passing through Berber villages, waving and shouting "bonjour" to the locals. The majority were very friendly but on several occasions children would run up asking for money.
Our first aim was an old mine on the road between Ouaouizeght and Zaoulat Ahansal, which took us far longer to reach than anticipated. En route we passed the impressive "Cathedral Rock" which dominated the valley before we reached the worn-out yellow sign of a mine. JC shot off down the track to be met by locals who bombarded him with questions in French, but this was enough to convince us that this was the right place to start on one of our leads that the Professor had given us. Given the time, we decided to set up camp and set off earlt the next day. We found a good bivvy spot just before the rain started heavily once again.
We headed for the hills and rough roads passing through Berber villages, waving and shouting "bonjour" to the locals. The majority were very friendly but on several occasions children would run up asking for money.
Our first aim was an old mine on the road between Ouaouizeght and Zaoulat Ahansal, which took us far longer to reach than anticipated. En route we passed the impressive "Cathedral Rock" which dominated the valley before we reached the worn-out yellow sign of a mine. JC shot off down the track to be met by locals who bombarded him with questions in French, but this was enough to convince us that this was the right place to start on one of our leads that the Professor had given us. Given the time, we decided to set up camp and set off earlt the next day. We found a good bivvy spot just before the rain started heavily once again.
Day 12 Monday 28/09/09
Arranged to meet Ayoub Nehili ( a Moroccan caving contact EP had been in contact with via Facebook) in Cassablanca. Went via Rabat to buy some topo maps from one of the only places where you can buy maps in Morocco.
Met Ayoub at a cafe near the port of Cassablanca. Ayoub asked us to meet the president of the Moroccan Caving Association at the university, Prof. Amrani Marrakchi. As Ayoub had no transport, EP had to choose between driving in a Moroccan city or get on the back of JC's motorbike. City driving won, so MC got on the back of the bike. EP nervously xove her way through the city traffic mayhem until we reached the university. Ayoub led us through the campus to meet the professor. A very informative discussion took place gleaning lots of information from the local cavers and advice (many thanks for this, it was really appreciated.).
Spent 5 hours driving to Beni Mellal, in one of our selected caving areas, arriving at a hotel at 11pm.
Day 11 Sunday 27/09/09
Decided to have another day at Moulay to give JC chance to dry his kit from yesterday's soaking. The campsite was next to a large nature reserve, famous for its birdlife. EP and MC tooka two hour boat trip out onto the lagoon to watch the birds - Egtrets, Heron, Turnstones, Curlew, Redshank, Sandpipers and a possible Marsh Harrier.
Day 10 Saturday 26/09/09
Woke up in the night to thunder and lightning. Got up early and decided to drop the tents as we thought it may rain. Having just packed and had breakfast there was a massive storm with torrential rain. We started driving to Tetouan to find the route south. With only a large scale map and poor road signs navigating in Morocco was going to be fun. The rain was so heavy, the drains and sewers burst and we were driving (and riding for JC) through sewage! There were rats, mud and rocks all over the roads and some roads became impassable due to flooding.
Finally we navigated our way out of the chaos, leaving the devistation behind us. The rain stopped and so did we to allow JC to change his clothes and brew up to warm him. We drove on and finally made it to Moulay Bousselham and a campsite.
Finally we navigated our way out of the chaos, leaving the devistation behind us. The rain stopped and so did we to allow JC to change his clothes and brew up to warm him. We drove on and finally made it to Moulay Bousselham and a campsite.
Day 9 Friday 25/09/09
We all met up at the port of Algeciras at 12:30 and headed to a ticket office to buy our tickets to Morocco. It was 166 Euros for MC, EP and the Land Rover whilst JC got his ticket for 64.50 Euros. We booked for the 16:30 crossing and at 15:00 went to find the departures area. The signs were not the best and "helpful" people kept pointing us in different directions. We finally found the place to queue and waited to board. It was a smooth, one hour crossing to Ceuta;
At the Moroccan border it was chaos. We did not have a clue what was going on. There were vehicles and people everywhere. We were assisted by a couple of English speaking "officials" who gave us the paperwork and showed us where to go for passport stamps and the vehicle import forms. We were asked for the vehicle registration docs and green cards. JC handed over his green card and photocopy of the V5 and was told that both were no good. He explained that it was all he had and it was accepted. MC then handed over the paperwork for the Land Rover and realised that the V5 was in EP's name and she should have completed the paperwork. Showing EP's passport seemed to satisfy the official and we were in too.
With a suggested campsite in the Lonely Planet guidebook a short drive down the coast, we headed for Martil. After searching for an hour we found the campsite and pitched for our first night in Morocco.
At the Moroccan border it was chaos. We did not have a clue what was going on. There were vehicles and people everywhere. We were assisted by a couple of English speaking "officials" who gave us the paperwork and showed us where to go for passport stamps and the vehicle import forms. We were asked for the vehicle registration docs and green cards. JC handed over his green card and photocopy of the V5 and was told that both were no good. He explained that it was all he had and it was accepted. MC then handed over the paperwork for the Land Rover and realised that the V5 was in EP's name and she should have completed the paperwork. Showing EP's passport seemed to satisfy the official and we were in too.
With a suggested campsite in the Lonely Planet guidebook a short drive down the coast, we headed for Martil. After searching for an hour we found the campsite and pitched for our first night in Morocco.
Sunday 11 October 2009
Internet Access
Please bear with us. We cannot find Wifi access in Morocco. When back in Spain we will upload all our Moroccan adventures.
Wednesday 7 October 2009
Day 8 Thursday 24/09/09
MC and EP continued to drive to Algeciras to check out the ferry crossings to Morocco. Hot weather for a stunning drive through the mountains to the coast. Arrived at the port of Algeciras and asked at a couple of ticket offices for paperwork requirements for entering Morocco. We were told that only the green card was needed (no V5), so JC could get in on what docs. he had. A text was sent to JC to arrange to meet up the next day for a crossing to Morocco.
Heading back into Spain and San Roque there were no campsites to be found so we decided to try out the back of the Land Rover for the first time on this trip.
Whilst waiting for a reply we headed onto Gibraltar as it was so close, for a trip back to GB. The roads on Gib are narrow and the Land Rover is not the best "town car" for these roads. EP wanted to visit the show cave and Great Siege tunnel and see the apes and as it was 4:30 already, we headed straight for the top of the rock. St Michaels cave is very well decorated and you can wander round round on your own which made a refreshing change not to have the standard show cave guide commentary. It has a stage and auditorium in the cave which also was planned to be used as a field hospital in WW2, if needed (which it wasn't). We drove across to the Great Siege Tunnels which were mined out of the Limestone in the early 1700's for cannon placements. Outside the tunnels were plenty of apes with tourists photographing them. EP amost filled a memory card on the camera with monkey shots.
Day 7 Wednesday 23/09/09
JC left early on his bike to ride to "Crushers" house in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. JC forgot some bike documents (although we have photocopies) so these were being posted to Crushers village by Val.
MC and EP drove down to Andalucia after EP finished the final drawings and got the very important envelope in the post to the UK. We camped at Grazalema at an expensive campsite. It was 8pm, getting dark and we had not seen any campsites in the area,so beggars cannot be choosers. Unfortunatley, the mountains in these areas are off limits without a guide between July and mid October, everwhere we looked there were huge fences blocking access.
MC and EP drove down to Andalucia after EP finished the final drawings and got the very important envelope in the post to the UK. We camped at Grazalema at an expensive campsite. It was 8pm, getting dark and we had not seen any campsites in the area,so beggars cannot be choosers. Unfortunatley, the mountains in these areas are off limits without a guide between July and mid October, everwhere we looked there were huge fences blocking access.
Day 6 Tuesday 22/09/09
The day was spent at the campsite so that EP could (finally) finish the cave surveys from the previous China expedition to Yanhe in October 2008. These drawings had been expected to be completed before we left the UK but time overtook us. It was then planned to use the enforced free time on the ferry crossing but someone left the paperwork in the Land Rover and we were not allowed back to the vehicle once the ship set sail.
EP spent the day in the sun at the camp drawing up many kilometres of passageway whilst MC took the bike out for a test ride and then JC and MC went in search of a post office and envelope. The post office was found, but only open between 8:15 and 10:30.
EP spent the day in the sun at the camp drawing up many kilometres of passageway whilst MC took the bike out for a test ride and then JC and MC went in search of a post office and envelope. The post office was found, but only open between 8:15 and 10:30.
Day 5 Monday 21/09/09
Left Palencia at 11am and drove down across flat lands to the stunning scenery of the Sierra de Gredos in hot sunshine. We camped at Madrigal de la Vera campsite (La Mata). It is out of season so the place was amlost deserted. Good facilities and Wifi for free.
Tuesday 22 September 2009
Day 4 Sunday 20/09/09
Spain
Having driven away from Matienzo with a Land Rover full of wet kit, the rain soon stopped. The plan was to visit some show caves on our way south. The first cave was close to Matienzo and contained some prehistoric cave art. We walked up to Cueva de Covalanas and paid our 3 euros. We were taken into the cave to see some amazing paintings that were 20,000 years old and yet very clear and easy to make out. Unfortunately cameras were not allowed in the cave.
Drove down to Palencia and found a Hostal (cheap hotel) but spent an hour trying to find somewhere to park the Land Rover and bike. Once we had parked and locked up and walked back to the Hostal, there was parking space outside the place – so we moved the vehicles again! We got a triple room with Wifi for 54 euros and it gave us chance to dry kit that got soaked the night before and catch up on emails and the blog.
Having driven away from Matienzo with a Land Rover full of wet kit, the rain soon stopped. The plan was to visit some show caves on our way south. The first cave was close to Matienzo and contained some prehistoric cave art. We walked up to Cueva de Covalanas and paid our 3 euros. We were taken into the cave to see some amazing paintings that were 20,000 years old and yet very clear and easy to make out. Unfortunately cameras were not allowed in the cave.
Drove down to Palencia and found a Hostal (cheap hotel) but spent an hour trying to find somewhere to park the Land Rover and bike. Once we had parked and locked up and walked back to the Hostal, there was parking space outside the place – so we moved the vehicles again! We got a triple room with Wifi for 54 euros and it gave us chance to dry kit that got soaked the night before and catch up on emails and the blog.
Sunday 20 September 2009
Day 3 Saturday 19/09/09
Spain
Docked at Bilbao on time and disembarked into light rain. Drove to what we thought was Matienzo but even with John hurtling round the quiet village looking for “Pedro’s bar” on his bike, we were none the wiser in finding the camp site. Finally we checked a map that Emma printed off from the Matienzo cave website and realised that there was another Matienzo 15 miles away! Once in the correct Matienzo we found the German bar described in the write-up and set-up camp (having discovered that there is no Pedro’s bar!) and it started to rain.
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