Our plane was on time and we left Beirut at 3:45am bound for Istanbul and onwards to Birmingham.
The flight was an hour late into Birmingham but we were back home and back to reality by 2:00pm.
It is strange to think that the trip is finally over. After the months of planning, months of travelling and meeting so many great people, it was over. Only 8000 photographs to sort, reports to write, cave surveys to draw and test equipment to return - so now the work starts!
A big thank you must go to all those who helped us on this trip of a lifetime and we hope to renew the friendships that we made along the way with further trips to Morocco, Tunisia etc.
Emma, Mike and John.
Wednesday 14 April 2010
Day 162 Sunday 11/04/10
Our last day in Lebanon and technically our last day of the Cave Now....Work Later expedition!
We wanted to spend some time with Hadi, who had put up with us in his flat for the past 3.5 weeks (not to mention the 3 weeks in January). We caught a taxi to Achrafiye and had a good Lebanese meal in a restaurant that Hadi knew - it is alot easier with local knowledge!
Back at the flat it was time to pack and wait for our taxi to the airport (at 1:30am). The taxi was early so we had a hurried goodbye and lugged our luggage into the lift and down into the taxi.
We wanted to spend some time with Hadi, who had put up with us in his flat for the past 3.5 weeks (not to mention the 3 weeks in January). We caught a taxi to Achrafiye and had a good Lebanese meal in a restaurant that Hadi knew - it is alot easier with local knowledge!
Back at the flat it was time to pack and wait for our taxi to the airport (at 1:30am). The taxi was early so we had a hurried goodbye and lugged our luggage into the lift and down into the taxi.
Tuesday 13 April 2010
Day 161 Saturday 10/04/10
An early start and collected by Rena, we spent the day with Issam, Rena and Waafa in the Baskinta area looking for caves. We were taken to see the entrance of Lebanon's deepest cave, Foura Dara (-615m), near Tarchich. We stopped off in Broummana for a meal on the way back to Beirut.
In the evening we met Hadi at a cinema to watch "The Hurt Locker" (our fourth time to the cinema this trip!). We got back home at 1:30am - a long day!
In the evening we met Hadi at a cinema to watch "The Hurt Locker" (our fourth time to the cinema this trip!). We got back home at 1:30am - a long day!
Day 160 Friday 09/04/10
The North was our target for today. We drove to anrea above Tripoli, looking for caving potential. On our way south we headed to Houqa to visit Antoinette's family. We had some photographs of their Grandma that they asked for, who sadly passed away in January (just before our last visit). As per usual we were welcomed as part of the family and were fed chocolate, Easter cakes and coffee.
In the evening we had to drop the hire car back, so headed back to Beirut.
In the evening we had to drop the hire car back, so headed back to Beirut.
Day 159 Thursday 08/04/10
Armed with drill, rope and bolting kit we parked up on the side of the road below our new discovery. Two days ago we had walked in t-shirts, today the cloud was hugging the hillside and the rain was mixed with sleat!
After sitting in the car, hoping that the weather would improve, we decided to walk up to the hole now that the cloud had lifted a little. With bags of kit weighing us down we slogged up to the hole. When setting up to start bolting the top of the pitch - the drill would not work! Looking around we found some natural belays, so with rope protector and a few bags we protected the rope from the rock and managed to get down the pitch. The pitch was 9m and landed on a rocky floor. Down the slope there was a small chamber blocked by rocks but after MC had moved some rocks we could sqeeze in. This chamber was blocked by rocks, so here ended the cave.
In the evening we drove to the SCL caving club meeting and were presented with gifts as a thank you for arranging the rescue practice. Fadi gave a presentation on first aid for cavers as a follow-on to the rescue practice the previous weekend.
After sitting in the car, hoping that the weather would improve, we decided to walk up to the hole now that the cloud had lifted a little. With bags of kit weighing us down we slogged up to the hole. When setting up to start bolting the top of the pitch - the drill would not work! Looking around we found some natural belays, so with rope protector and a few bags we protected the rope from the rock and managed to get down the pitch. The pitch was 9m and landed on a rocky floor. Down the slope there was a small chamber blocked by rocks but after MC had moved some rocks we could sqeeze in. This chamber was blocked by rocks, so here ended the cave.
In the evening we drove to the SCL caving club meeting and were presented with gifts as a thank you for arranging the rescue practice. Fadi gave a presentation on first aid for cavers as a follow-on to the rescue practice the previous weekend.
Thursday 8 April 2010
Day 158 Wednesday 07/04/10
Fired up with cave hunting fever, we drove back to Hrajel to search in other areas. We did not have any luck this time but managed to walk a little more of the Lebanese Mountain Trail.
In the evening we met up with Rena, Issam and Wafaa at their climbing wall for a climb before tea! After the meal, we followed Issam back to collect drill and battery for tomorrow - only to discover that Hani still had the drill from last weekend. After a phone call we arranged to meet Hani in Beirut to collect the drill on our way home.
In the evening we met up with Rena, Issam and Wafaa at their climbing wall for a climb before tea! After the meal, we followed Issam back to collect drill and battery for tomorrow - only to discover that Hani still had the drill from last weekend. After a phone call we arranged to meet Hani in Beirut to collect the drill on our way home.
Day 157 Tuesday 06/04/10
After dropping Dave off at the airport at 7:00am, we set off back to Hrajel to walk near Raymond Cave and search for other entrances.
We set off in bright sunshine and walked up the dry riverbed below Raymond. We came across the two resurgences and continued up the valley. At a dry waterfall we found two ski poles (both in good condition and a pair). We soon discovered an old broken ski and were hoping that we didn't find the owner of this equipment higher up the river bed!
Emma had another snake encounter near the summit of the mountain - almost standing on a brown snake between two rocks. After finding numerous dolines but without any leads, we starting heading back to the car and discovered a pothole. We could look down about 10m to a rocky floor but needed ropes etc. to climb down. After getting a GPS fix on the hole we continued down to the car with the plan to come back to the hole on Thursday, once we had borrowed Issam's drill and bolting kit.
We set off in bright sunshine and walked up the dry riverbed below Raymond. We came across the two resurgences and continued up the valley. At a dry waterfall we found two ski poles (both in good condition and a pair). We soon discovered an old broken ski and were hoping that we didn't find the owner of this equipment higher up the river bed!
Emma had another snake encounter near the summit of the mountain - almost standing on a brown snake between two rocks. After finding numerous dolines but without any leads, we starting heading back to the car and discovered a pothole. We could look down about 10m to a rocky floor but needed ropes etc. to climb down. After getting a GPS fix on the hole we continued down to the car with the plan to come back to the hole on Thursday, once we had borrowed Issam's drill and bolting kit.
Tuesday 6 April 2010
Day 156 Monday 05/04/10
Em, Mike and Dave joined Fadi, Hani and Melody on a surveying trip to Raymond's Cave in the Faraya Mountains. Despite a lack of kit, we all safely tackled the pitches and reached the end of the cave where there was a howling draught coming from a large boulder choke through a small gap.
Day 155 Sunday 04/04/10
Hadi took us on a trip to the Chouf Mountains, where we had an excellent Lebanese meal before visiting the Ain Wazein show cave which was discovered in 2003.
Sunday 4 April 2010
Day 154 Saturday 03/04/10
Em, Mike and Dave organised a cave rescue practice at Roueiss Cave for Speleo Club du Liban with an excellent turn out of 20 people. We provided training sessions above ground in cave rescue management and stretcher packaging before going underground to deal with the scenario. Afterwards, we went to Fadi's parents' summerhouse in the mountains for food.
Day 153 Friday 02/04/10
Had a tourist day to stunning Baalbek in the Bekaa Valley, driving there via Fayaa ski area which was totally deserted.
Saturday 3 April 2010
Day 152 Thursday 01/04/10
With a rescue practice planned for Saturday (that we Brits were running) we thought we better suss out the cave! We headed up to Roueiss Cave to plan a scenario. After sorting out where we would set up the rescue practice we set off to attempt a round trip in the cave. Armed only with a photograph of the survey on Dave's camera we had some route finding issues at times - but made it round in the end.
Day 151 Wednesday 31/03/10
Another new cave for all three of us today. We drove up into the mountains to Hrajel to visit Nabaa el Mghara. We found this cave in January with John, Steve and Rick and the three of them went into it whilst EP and MC went to discover "Bedstead Cave" on that day.
We climbed down into the cave and spent a few hours exploring and photographing.
We met up with Fadi from SCL in the evening and were taken to the Yacht Club in Jounieh for a drink - which was very pleasant.
We climbed down into the cave and spent a few hours exploring and photographing.
We met up with Fadi from SCL in the evening and were taken to the Yacht Club in Jounieh for a drink - which was very pleasant.
Day 150 Tuesday 30/03/10
Having had a long day of travelling the day before, we went to Antelias Quarry again on the outskirts of Beirut to visit a new cave. This cave was discovered by the ALES club in 2007 and was named after the date of exploration (22nd April).
The cave entrance was up a steep climb on a cliff wall. The cave is only short but has some amazing formations in pure white calcite. We spent four hours in the cave photographing with varying degrees of success. The cave is also home to many fruit bats which were very vocal. When we got out Dave popped into Kannan Cave in the same quarry to look at the formations there.
In the evening we drove to Issam's house for a basic geology lesson on the Limestone of Lebanon, which was very informative.
The cave entrance was up a steep climb on a cliff wall. The cave is only short but has some amazing formations in pure white calcite. We spent four hours in the cave photographing with varying degrees of success. The cave is also home to many fruit bats which were very vocal. When we got out Dave popped into Kannan Cave in the same quarry to look at the formations there.
In the evening we drove to Issam's house for a basic geology lesson on the Limestone of Lebanon, which was very informative.
Day 149 Monday 29/03/10
Em, Mike and Dave headed northwards through Tripoli to explore some caves we had not visited previously. Due to the poor road maps, we found ourselves getting very lost but help was soon provided by some friendly Lebanese in the town of Kousba. They told us about a nearby cave and we set off up to a monastry, following the signs explaining the strict clothing etiquette and vows of silence. Once we arrived, we could see no monks to seek permission and headed to Saint Hamatoora Cave which was guarded by a mule. We only checked out the entrance in which time the mule charged at Mike so we headed back to the monastry to get permission, only to be ushered into a service (by a workman) for the monks in Arabic!
In the afternoon, we attemped to find Zahlan Cave in Sir ed Danniye. Several hours later, having spoken to almost everyone in the village we gave up. Aside from the poor road maps, detailed maps are not available, the LMT map showed the cave and place names incorrectly, any available grid references are in Lambert which is not available on our GPS, and no one in the village spoke English (when we were understood everyone sent us in different directions) .... things were against us!
In the afternoon, we attemped to find Zahlan Cave in Sir ed Danniye. Several hours later, having spoken to almost everyone in the village we gave up. Aside from the poor road maps, detailed maps are not available, the LMT map showed the cave and place names incorrectly, any available grid references are in Lambert which is not available on our GPS, and no one in the village spoke English (when we were understood everyone sent us in different directions) .... things were against us!
Monday 29 March 2010
Day 148 Sunday 28/03/10
We had an early start to meet Rena, Issam and Samir to go back to the pothole in Mechane. There was still some stabilisation to be finished off. MC set off down the hole to rig the pitches, followed by Issam and Samir with the tools and chicken wire. EP and DA set off for a hike to look for new caves.
We got some of the wire fixed before the drill battery died, so Issam went back out to fetch a fresh battery. When he returned, we found that the new battery was faulty too, so we all headed out of the cave.
We got home in good time and went off for a meal with Hadi in Hamra.
We got some of the wire fixed before the drill battery died, so Issam went back out to fetch a fresh battery. When he returned, we found that the new battery was faulty too, so we all headed out of the cave.
We got home in good time and went off for a meal with Hadi in Hamra.
Day 147 Saturday 27/03/10
Due to the fact of not getting to bed before 4am, we decided to have a late start. Hadi had to go into work in the morning, so we arranged to meet for lunch in Hamra. After lunch Hadi went back to work and we three wandered back home.
Later in the day we went in search of some shopping and cables to conect Hadi's TV to his DVD player. We headed back home to cook a meal of Chicken Pasanda and Key Lime Pie.
Later in the day we went in search of some shopping and cables to conect Hadi's TV to his DVD player. We headed back home to cook a meal of Chicken Pasanda and Key Lime Pie.
Day 146 Friday 26/03/10
A quick trip into Kannan Cave in the Antelias quarry. We visited this well decorated cave in January and decided to go back with the camera kit. Unfortunately we had flash slave problems, with none of them working properly - which made it difficult with only two people. We got a few photos taken before heading out.
In the evening we were invited to a charity event to watch "Alice in Wonderland" at a Beirut cinema. We got a bit lost trying to find the place, but got there in the end thanks to Loucy directing us in by phone! After the cinema it was off to the airport to collect Dave Appleing, who was joining us for 10 days.
In the evening we were invited to a charity event to watch "Alice in Wonderland" at a Beirut cinema. We got a bit lost trying to find the place, but got there in the end thanks to Loucy directing us in by phone! After the cinema it was off to the airport to collect Dave Appleing, who was joining us for 10 days.
Thursday 25 March 2010
Day 145 Thursday 25/03/2010
A lazy day to rest Em's hamstring that had been sore since running. We worked on our local cave rescue group's handbook in the morning, then met Hadi for some delicious Lebanese food. In the evening, we headed up to Speleo Club du Liban's HQ for an excellent talk and great photos of their recent underground trip to Syria.
Day 144 Wednesday 24/03/2010
We set off hiking under the summit of Jebel Sannine (2628m), trying to follow part of the Lebanese Mountain Trail (LMT). We had heard about the difficulty route finding on the LMT, but we managed to traverse under the cliffs to descend down to the town of Baskinta. Once here, we picked up the Baskinta Literary Trail, although had difficulty locating the start of the path. Reluctant to walk on the road, like the two hikers we saw in the morning who we suspect could not find the path, we kept searching and eventually found the path which led us down into the gorge below. We passed the Cave of Sauf el Dawla, but due to the light left and the distance still to walk, we did not have time to climb down the side of the gorge and back up to the cave which was across the valley. We eventually reached the car at 6pm, just before it started getting dark.
(The LMT is aimed at supporting the mountain communities in Lebanon and hikers are expected to use local guides and stay in local accommodation. For this reason, there are very few signs to indicate the route and route-finding is not straightforward, even with maps).
(The LMT is aimed at supporting the mountain communities in Lebanon and hikers are expected to use local guides and stay in local accommodation. For this reason, there are very few signs to indicate the route and route-finding is not straightforward, even with maps).
Day 143 Tuesday 23/03/2010
We drove south to visit the World Heritage Site of the town of Sour (Tyre), and visited the nature reserve on the beach (famous for its turtles, although we saw none). Then onto Qana, where we visited a tourist grotto, the centre of a debate as to whether this is the biblical Qana where Jesus turned water into wine. We saw no wine but instead spotted a huge brown snake with a bulbous head and neck which gave us both quite a shock as it jumped in front of us! We then headed to the centre of the village to the site of the Qana massacre where in 1996, an estimated 800 people were sheltering at the UN peace-keeping base, when the base was shelled by Israel, killing 106 and injuring 120. One of the survivors came and met us and showed us around.
We then headed back to Sour, which was swarming with UN soldiers shopping and taking photos of the archaelogical sites. We walked along the coast and harbour before having a quick look at the archaelogy.
We then headed back to Sour, which was swarming with UN soldiers shopping and taking photos of the archaelogical sites. We walked along the coast and harbour before having a quick look at the archaelogy.
Tuesday 23 March 2010
Day 142 Monday 22/03/10
We collected our hire car - getting a free upgrade to an automatic, slightly larger car. After a quick stop at Hadi's flat we headed north to Jounieh and took the telepherique to Harissa. The ride up is a steep one and passes very close to some high rise properties as it leaves Jounieh. There are some fantastic views of Beirut and the surrounding areas to be had from the top.
Saturday 20 March 2010
Day 140 Saturday 20/03/10
Waking up to blue skies again, we went for a jog/walk along the Corniche. Later we walked back into Hamra to sort out the internet connection for Hadi's modem and our notebook.
Day 139 Friday 19/03/10
We arrived in Beirut at 1:00am and got to Hadi's flat by 1:45am. After a late start we took a walk into Hamra to get some money and do a little shopping. We met Hadi for a Chinese lunch and as he went back to work, we called into the cinema to see what was showing and decided to stay and watch "Green Zone". There was only 4 people in the whole auditorium!
Friday 5 March 2010
Wednesday 03/03/10
Time to fly back to the cold!
Had a free upgrade to Business Class for the flight to Mumbai - which was very nice! Landed back in London at 5:30pm and 5 degrees!
Had a free upgrade to Business Class for the flight to Mumbai - which was very nice! Landed back in London at 5:30pm and 5 degrees!
Tuesday 02/03/10
Our last day in Thailand.
After checking out of the hotel we headed for the floating market. We took a boat trip around the market but there are more tourist boats than traders or locals at this market. This market has become geared for the tourists rather than the original purpose, but it made for an intersting couple of hours.
We then headed to the other side of Bangkok to spend the night with Ivan, Nom and Mac. We had to be at the airport by 6:30am the next day, so an early start was required. Ivan and family live only 30 minutes from the airport, so it was a much appreciated stop for us.
After checking out of the hotel we headed for the floating market. We took a boat trip around the market but there are more tourist boats than traders or locals at this market. This market has become geared for the tourists rather than the original purpose, but it made for an intersting couple of hours.
We then headed to the other side of Bangkok to spend the night with Ivan, Nom and Mac. We had to be at the airport by 6:30am the next day, so an early start was required. Ivan and family live only 30 minutes from the airport, so it was a much appreciated stop for us.
Monday 01/03/10
We set off from Surat Thani in the morning and planned to get to Phetchaburi for the night. We got there by early evening, after missing the town and having to turn round, only to be met by hoards of scooters and manic traffic. The place was the busiest town we had seen in three weeks!
We could not find a hotel but stopped at a restaurant as recommended by the Rough Guide - not the best meal we have had in Thailand! Something was telling us Phetchaburi was not for us.......
We carried on towards Bangkok and found a hotel in Damnoen Saduak, west of Bangkok. This place has a famous floating market each day and attracts alot of tourists. As we had time the next day, we decided to pay it a visit.
We could not find a hotel but stopped at a restaurant as recommended by the Rough Guide - not the best meal we have had in Thailand! Something was telling us Phetchaburi was not for us.......
We carried on towards Bangkok and found a hotel in Damnoen Saduak, west of Bangkok. This place has a famous floating market each day and attracts alot of tourists. As we had time the next day, we decided to pay it a visit.
Monday 1 March 2010
Sunday 28/02/10
Whilst having breakfast in Phangnga, a procession came down the street. Many businesses laid out tables on the street with offerings. Some of the participants of the procession had metal skewers through their cheeks and ears.
When we got out of the town we started looking for Tham Racha Phuttha, the cave we tried to find yesterday. We spent over an hour looking and were about to give up when we tried one last track. The GPS showed that we were getting close and by sheer fluke we found the cave!
We spent 5 hours surveying the cave, but ran out of time. We left survey stations marked for others to continue. In the cave we found the skin of a snake. We did not wish to meet the previous occupier of this skin as it was over 1.7m long!
We then drove back to Surat Thani to begin our travels back to Bangkok.
Saturday 27/02/10
Heading North West from Krabi, we travelled towards Phangnga. We had more caves on the “hit list” to look for. We started by finding Tham Prasat Nalakhiring, a showcave run by monks. The report we had was of a cave with a streamway and had great exploration potential. On entering the cave it was dry and we found no leads for further exploration. When we exited the cave, we were met by a storm and heavy rain. The rain soon passed and it was back to warm sunshine.
Whilst driving to Phangnga we decided to look for the cave for tomorrow. We spent 2 hours driving down tracks following the GPS and asking locals without success. We gave up and went looking for a hotel room.
Whilst driving to Phangnga we decided to look for the cave for tomorrow. We spent 2 hours driving down tracks following the GPS and asking locals without success. We gave up and went looking for a hotel room.
Friday 26 February 2010
Friday 26/02/10
A tourist day was had on a boat trip in the Andaman Sea on a standard tour.
We had an early start to meet the transfer bus in Krabi at 8:00am and were taken to Ao Nang to meet the boat. We spent the day visiting various islands and bays for snorkelling in clear, warm water, including a visit to Maya Bay (famous for the film, The Beach) and lunch was supplied on Phi Phi Island. The boat took us past Viking Cave, which is no longer accessible to tourists, but we could clearly see the scaffolding used for the birds’ nest gatherers.
The trip back to dry land was quite eventful. We rescued a German snorkeller who obviously had not seen the film, Open Water, as she had lost her boat and then we hit a dog fish (a member of the shark family) which was cut by one of our propellers.
Whilst it was a good day, it reconfirmed that beach holidays and tourist resorts are definitely not for us!
We had an early start to meet the transfer bus in Krabi at 8:00am and were taken to Ao Nang to meet the boat. We spent the day visiting various islands and bays for snorkelling in clear, warm water, including a visit to Maya Bay (famous for the film, The Beach) and lunch was supplied on Phi Phi Island. The boat took us past Viking Cave, which is no longer accessible to tourists, but we could clearly see the scaffolding used for the birds’ nest gatherers.
The trip back to dry land was quite eventful. We rescued a German snorkeller who obviously had not seen the film, Open Water, as she had lost her boat and then we hit a dog fish (a member of the shark family) which was cut by one of our propellers.
Whilst it was a good day, it reconfirmed that beach holidays and tourist resorts are definitely not for us!
Thursday 25 February 2010
Thursday 25/02/10
We started the long drive north by driving to Krabi. We called in on a show cave enroute called Tham Khao Kop. The cave is entered on a small boat paddled by two staff. Part of the trip (disconcertingly) involves laying flat out in the boat whilst being boated through a very, very low section for about two hundred metres – this is not a trip for ones with a wide girth!
After the show cave we went in search of another temple cave. The cave, Tham Khao Pina is a multi-layered cave in a cliff. There are concrete steps up to each level with many Budda statues. At the top is a large chamber.
On reaching Krabi, we found a hotel and then went down to the port area. We took a longtail boat out for a two hour trip in the mangroves. Part of the tour included visiting a cave on one of the islands close to Krabi.
After the show cave we went in search of another temple cave. The cave, Tham Khao Pina is a multi-layered cave in a cliff. There are concrete steps up to each level with many Budda statues. At the top is a large chamber.
On reaching Krabi, we found a hotel and then went down to the port area. We took a longtail boat out for a two hour trip in the mangroves. Part of the tour included visiting a cave on one of the islands close to Krabi.
Wednesday 24/02/10
A strange start to the morning … just as we were leaving at 8am, we heard the National Anthem being played over the town PA system. Everyone stopped what they were doing and stood still, even cars and buses stopped in the road for the duration!
A cave south of Trang was our target for today. It was a wet cave that needing surveying and has the potential of being quite a long system. We found the cave entrance without too much difficulty and kitted up. Going into the cave we followed an inlet but soon reached a pool of deep water. Neither of us fancied crossing this pool with no other cavers as support, so we surveyed out to the entrance.
The map showed another cave a few miles south of us, so we headed off to find it. There is an impressive sign on the roadside and driving down a track, we were soon at the cave. As with many caves in Thailand, it is also a temple. It turned out to be a small cave that did not go very far. A quick survey was undertaken of the cave before we headed back to Trang.
Tuesday 23/02/10
We continued our drive south and made it to Trang, checking on a couple of caves on the way. The first cave was only a name on the list with no details. We knew the village it was near, so we drove there and looked for signs. All signs were in Thai, but by better luck than judgement we found Tham Phra Ya Pichai Songkram. This cave was once a tourist attraction but at this moment is run down and in need of restoration. There is a wooden boardwalk that runs to the cave entrance but this is falling apart in places. We made it to the cave entrance, got a GPS fix, but did not enter.
Nearby, at a temple, is the cave of Tham Phra Phut. The cave is run by monks and has some electric lighting in it. We surveyed the cave, dodging bats (again!) and on getting out were given a bottle of drinking water by a monk.
We drove on to Trang and found a hotel for a couple of nights.
Nearby, at a temple, is the cave of Tham Phra Phut. The cave is run by monks and has some electric lighting in it. We surveyed the cave, dodging bats (again!) and on getting out were given a bottle of drinking water by a monk.
We drove on to Trang and found a hotel for a couple of nights.
Monday 22 February 2010
Monday 22/02/10
Waking up to fine weather we headed back to Tham Nam Lot. On parking up we were met by a local farmer who lived near the track to the cave. He showed us the way to the cave and left us to survey it. The cave was full of bats and other creatures. It was difficult surveying with hundreds of bats flying close by! There were many cave fish in the stream and we also encountered a snake, a crab and some cave shrimps in this cave. We were stopped on the upstream leg of the cave by a deep water canal and a low ceiling. The downstream leg was very small and full of bats – so we left that for the next generation of cavers!
When we got back to our car, the farmer met us and indicated that there was another cave up the hill. Grabbing our caving kit, we followed him up a dry river bed to another cave entrance. This too was a stream cave and full of more bats! This cave had its fair share of creatures too – a snake, a small crab and spiders (one large one decided to crawl up MC and onto his chest – until it was knocked off into the water!). The cave ended at a sump pool, so we surveyed out and headed back to the car.
Once changed and having said our goodbyes to the farmer, we continued our drive south and reached Thung Song, where we found a hotel for the night.
When we got back to our car, the farmer met us and indicated that there was another cave up the hill. Grabbing our caving kit, we followed him up a dry river bed to another cave entrance. This too was a stream cave and full of more bats! This cave had its fair share of creatures too – a snake, a small crab and spiders (one large one decided to crawl up MC and onto his chest – until it was knocked off into the water!). The cave ended at a sump pool, so we surveyed out and headed back to the car.
Once changed and having said our goodbyes to the farmer, we continued our drive south and reached Thung Song, where we found a hotel for the night.
Sunday 21/02/10
Another cave on the “hit list” was Tham Men. This cave was visited by the B.E.C. in 1998, but not surveyed. It had some promising leads to follow up. When we got there it was a well developed show cave and when we asked if we could enter by ourselves to explore the further reaches of the cave, we were told this would not be possible. We explained that we wished to survey the cave and that our trip would take longer than usual! We were allowed to survey the cave, but only the show cave.
We spent around four hours in the cave which was impressive in size and had some stunning formations and surveyed what we could.
With still some daylight left, we decided to look for another cave on the list which was only a few miles away. To reach Tham Nam Lot required driving along a dirt road for a mile. As we drove along it started to rain and we didn’t want to get stuck if the road turned to mud, so once we had found the walking track to the cave, we headed back to town - once we had driven for a few miles we were out of the rain shower.
Saturday 20/02/10
The plan was to find Tham Than Nam Lot Noi from Martin’s list and we reached the vicinity without too much trouble. Tham Nam Lot was also on the list for that area but with no real details of location etc. so we intended to search for this later.
We saw a sign for a cave off the road (“Tanlod Cave”) pointing down a concrete road. At the end of the road was a path down to a large cave entrance. We thought that this may be Tham Nam Lot as the little description that we had matched, so we got changed and went to explore. The cave has a stream running into it and a lot of flood debris around the entrance chambers. The stream soon hit the dipping cave roof in a choked (with flood debris) duck. There is a bypass of this duck and soon we were into a larger river passage. We followed the stream for a few metres before reaching a large, deep, pool with bamboo fishing rods around it. The cave passage turned to the right and the stream flowed into another large pool. We crossed the waist deep stream and walked down the sandbank at the side of the second pool. The cave turned slightly left but we were stopped by a deep, “swimming” streamway. Could the cave continue round the corner? With just the two of us, we decided to play safe and not start swimming – the cave will still be there for another day. We surveyed the cave back to the entrance and when we got out there were a lot of locals around with some small boys swimming in the pool at the cave entrance.
We drove down to Surat Thani (2 hours) and booked into a hotel on the outskirts of town.
Thursday 18 February 2010
Thursday 18/02/10
The plan was to find another cave from Martin’s list, although this cave only had a village name and national park but no GPS reference. It took a bit of driving and asking various policemen but we eventually found the right area, but in a different national park to the one on Martin’s list. There was a visitors' centre in a national park office but when we enquired about the cave we were told that it was closed because it was too dangerous! The man in the office would not tell us exactly where the cave was, so we had to go for another drive around!
We found a cave nearby in the village which we believed was the one we were looking for and got a GPS fix and photograph of the entrance. The cave did not, however, match the brief description supplied. We do not know if we found the right cave – or another one.
On the drive back to town we stopped at a cave that was signed from the main road (Dawadong). We thought we would get a GPS fix on this one, just in case it was missing from the database. On the walk up a mud track to the cave a man on a moped stopped and told us both to climb on the back to go to the cave - we had found a cave guide. We had a tour of four chambers in this cave by lantern light. We then had the hair raising trip back down the path on the moped to the car.
We found a cave nearby in the village which we believed was the one we were looking for and got a GPS fix and photograph of the entrance. The cave did not, however, match the brief description supplied. We do not know if we found the right cave – or another one.
On the drive back to town we stopped at a cave that was signed from the main road (Dawadong). We thought we would get a GPS fix on this one, just in case it was missing from the database. On the walk up a mud track to the cave a man on a moped stopped and told us both to climb on the back to go to the cave - we had found a cave guide. We had a tour of four chambers in this cave by lantern light. We then had the hair raising trip back down the path on the moped to the car.
Wednesday 17/02/10
We drove south from Lan Sak and had an easy 4 hour drive to Kanchanaburi. We found a hotel in the town (“Luxury Hotel” at 700 B per night) and grabbed a quick lunch of chicken and fried rice before going on the tourist trail. We visited the Thai – Burma railway museum, which was about the building of the “Death Railway”. We then headed down to the river and walked across the bridge over the River Kwai.
In the evening we had one of our best Thai meals in a restaurant in the town (“Apples”) before heading back to our hotel.
In the evening we had one of our best Thai meals in a restaurant in the town (“Apples”) before heading back to our hotel.
Tuesday 16/02/10
After breakfast we drove up to the cave, Tham Khao Phraya Phai Rua which was situated at a temple. We parked up and were met by a cave guide who, we established, was going to show us the cave. We showed him our caving gear to try to explain that we wanted to survey and photograph the cave but didn’t get very far.
At the temple site there were a lot of small tents and what looked like army cadet training going on. An army officer came over and had a few words of English. He ended up coming into the cave with us (complete with gun). The guide took us through various chambers and small tunnels and the army guy insisted on carrying our bag of camera equipment most of the way. In one small tunnel a snake was encountered that the guide and soldier were uneasy to see. We quickly passed through the tunnel only to see a bit of the snake in a small hole in the cave wall.
As we couldn’t explain what we were there to do, we decided to just start surveying in the chamber past the snake. The two Thais soon worked out what we were doing and stayed with us as we surveyed the cave. When near the entrance Emma suggested that they could carry on out and we would continue to survey. This they understood and we finally had the cave to ourselves. We continued the survey and when almost finished we were met by our guide and two young lads – one in monk clothing. All three stayed with us as we surveyed and photographed our way out.
Once out we were met by our army caving friend and other officers and given drinks and a present of a water melon. After group photos, we headed back to our hotel for a shower. We decided to go back to our market stall for food as it was tasty and cheap and we knew we could order (and be understood!) fried noodles and chicken in Thai!
Monday 15/02/10
We packed up our things and left Lom Sak. EP and MC headed south whilst the Shepton expedition headed north to Nan.
The drive south was on good roads and light traffic and we made it to Lan Sak by 5:00pm It was here that our first cave that Martin had listed was situated. We found a hotel close to the cave that was made up of individual cabins next to small lakes. After checking in, we drove into the town to find somewhere to eat. The town did not seem to see many foreign tourists and we ended up at a café in the market and managed to order some food in Thai!
The drive south was on good roads and light traffic and we made it to Lan Sak by 5:00pm It was here that our first cave that Martin had listed was situated. We found a hotel close to the cave that was made up of individual cabins next to small lakes. After checking in, we drove into the town to find somewhere to eat. The town did not seem to see many foreign tourists and we ended up at a café in the market and managed to order some food in Thai!
Monday 15 February 2010
Sunday 14/02/10
We decided to go back to Cave 25, now that we knew where it was. We were joined by Jo and Tiggy from the Shepton crew and set off earlier than on Friday! We parked up and set off walking through the jungle. All was going fine until we met a herd of Buffalo on the path. They did not appreciate us being there and looked none too friendly. We retreated up into the jungle and waited for them to pass. We made it to the cave and Emma, Jo and Mike kitted up to explore.
The first 10m pitch was rigged and we followed the small waterfall into the cave. We soon met another small pitch which Mike descended first. At the bottom we were met by a small chamber with a sump pool in it so the cave ended after 30m. The cave was home to many large spiders (much to Jo’s delight), bats and a large crab. We took some photos and surveyed out.
The walk back was warm work and almost back at the car we met the Buffalo again! A quick detour and we skirted round the herd and got back to the car.
The first 10m pitch was rigged and we followed the small waterfall into the cave. We soon met another small pitch which Mike descended first. At the bottom we were met by a small chamber with a sump pool in it so the cave ended after 30m. The cave was home to many large spiders (much to Jo’s delight), bats and a large crab. We took some photos and surveyed out.
The walk back was warm work and almost back at the car we met the Buffalo again! A quick detour and we skirted round the herd and got back to the car.
Saturday 13/02/10
Emma and Martin spent the morning have a Thai massage. The afternoon was spent loading cave positions onto our GPS and going through the list of cave leads that Martin produced for us.
In the evening the Shepton expedition members rolled into town and the night was spent at Yuphin’s bar.
In the evening the Shepton expedition members rolled into town and the night was spent at Yuphin’s bar.
Saturday 13 February 2010
Friday 12/02/10
Martin stayed at home to prepare for the invasion by the Shepton Mallet Caving Club (7 members) whilst Phil took Emma and Mike on a jungle trek to find “Cave 25” near Tham Yai Nam Nao. This cave has not been descended before due to a small entrance pitch, so we loaded our bags with ropes, drill and bolting kit to explore.
With a later start than planned due to GPS problems and some route finding issues, we parked up and started to walk at 1:30pm. The walk through the jungle was hot work and Phil was busy showing us the evidence of Elephants in the vicinity. We found what we think is the cave entrance at 4:00pm – just in time to turn round and head out before dark!
With a later start than planned due to GPS problems and some route finding issues, we parked up and started to walk at 1:30pm. The walk through the jungle was hot work and Phil was busy showing us the evidence of Elephants in the vicinity. We found what we think is the cave entrance at 4:00pm – just in time to turn round and head out before dark!
Thursday 11\02/10
We checked out of the hotel and set off north to look at some temples and caves that Martin had GPS fixes for. Martin found the temple in the Tham Saeng Tham Phramonawat Forest Park and we headed off for 500m into the jungle to the cave – Tham Muet. This turned out to be a small rock shelter but the name translates to “Dark Cave”, so is there a bigger cave nearby?
We then headed south towards Lom Sak. On the way back we stopped at a temple to survey the cave in which this temple is situated (Tham Pha Pu). Whilst Martin and Phil surveyed, Emma and Mike followed behind to trial their new Distox and PDA for electronic surveying.
The lunch stop was at a lake where you eat on bamboo rafts that are towed out into the middle of the lake. After a couple of hours Phil raised the flag and we were towed back to shore to complete our journey back to Lom Sak.
We then headed south towards Lom Sak. On the way back we stopped at a temple to survey the cave in which this temple is situated (Tham Pha Pu). Whilst Martin and Phil surveyed, Emma and Mike followed behind to trial their new Distox and PDA for electronic surveying.
The lunch stop was at a lake where you eat on bamboo rafts that are towed out into the middle of the lake. After a couple of hours Phil raised the flag and we were towed back to shore to complete our journey back to Lom Sak.
Wednesday 10/02/10
A later start due to a puncture repair!
The four of us headed upwards above the cave visited on Monday to Tham Yai (Pha Sawan), to try and find the link between the two. Martin and Phil finished the survey of some loose ends, whilst EP and MC bolted and rigged an 18m pitch to survey and photograph about 120m of passage – which whilst beautiful, did not connect. Very noisy fruit bats were plentiful, with a “Hairy Mary” and gecko also spotted.
Friday 12 February 2010
Tuesday 09/02/10
The same four visited Tham Nam / Tham Dam, surveying and photographing. Unfortunately, the main lead ended in a very muddy sump so we retreated to a spectacular side passage with some amazing calcite “stripes” and EP spotted a bright green snake.
We then climbed up to another cave, Tham Jaeng, on the other side of the hill, although no link was established between this and Tham Nam. EP and MC then climbed up some very steep steps on another part of the hill to investigate an entrance which had been locked by the monks (Tham Khao San Hin).
Wednesday 10 February 2010
Monday 08/02/10
We packed Martin’s pickup with our caving gear and the four of us travelled north to Loei. After checking in to a hotel in the town (bargain at £7 per room per night), we drove out to a cave “Tham Pha Sawan”. The entrance of the cave is lived in by monks and it appears to be used as a school for boy monks.
Martin and Phil surveyed the cave whilst EP and MC scouted for leads, hoping it would connect with a cave that Martin and Ivan had visited above the hill recently. EP & MC also photographed the cave.
Martin and Phil surveyed the cave whilst EP and MC scouted for leads, hoping it would connect with a cave that Martin and Ivan had visited above the hill recently. EP & MC also photographed the cave.
Monday 8 February 2010
Sunday 07/02/10
Our first proper caving day, we headed north east to Tham Yai Nam Nao Cave in Nam Nao National Park together with Martin and Phil. This is a multi-entrance, wild show cave and approximately 10,105m long. The heat and humidity of the cave, forced us to keep a steady pace and we headed to the “Sump Bypass”, a climb over a crawl which often fills with carbon dioxide and dependent on the season, becomes flooded with water. Once at the Bypass, Mike drilled and placed three spits so a ladder could be rigged up the climb and a rope down the other side. An electron ladder was left in situ for future trips should the Sump Bypass be impassable.
We headed for the stream and wandered up a couple of hundred metres taking photographs, before retreating to go for some noodles (Pad Zeou).
Saturday 06/02/10
We were met by Phil Collett and Ivan Hollis (both members of Shepton Mallet Caving Club) at Bangkok Airport and together with Phil, we drove 410km up to Lom Sak. The warm journey was broken up with a short stop to visit the monkeys at Thep Bamrung Cave, near Wichian Buri and to eat our first proper Thai meal of BBQ’d chicken. We then headed up to Lom Sak, where Martin Ellis (also SMCC) and Yuphin live and where we were to stay for two nights before heading off for some exploration. We spent the evening in Yuphin’s bar, drinking beer and eating some delicious food and Em was very surprised when a birthday cake appeared!
Thailand 2010 Friday 05/02/10
Em’s birthday, celebrated by flying from Heathrow to Mumbai (although we waited 2.5 hours to get through security, delaying the plane), arriving in Bangkok the following day.
Thursday 4 February 2010
What next (...or now for something completely different .......).
If we had not encountered the "diesel" problem in Lebanon, we would still be there now and be hitting Turkey and then Eastern Europe in the spring and in the warm weather.
Instead of staying in the UK, Mike and Emma have decided to make the most of their sabbatical and head off to Thailand for some exploratory caving, before returning to Lebanon in mid-March. So, we have decided to continue the blog and include our Thailand adventures, even though its not next to the Med!!
Instead of staying in the UK, Mike and Emma have decided to make the most of their sabbatical and head off to Thailand for some exploratory caving, before returning to Lebanon in mid-March. So, we have decided to continue the blog and include our Thailand adventures, even though its not next to the Med!!
Monday 1 February 2010
Day 138 Monday 01/02/10
We had an uneventful crossing, arriving in the UK at 1:30am and drove back to Tipton through snow showers. We arrived home at 6:30am – knackered!
On the drive back from the tunnel we started to hear a squeek from the Land Rover. A universal joint on the front propshaft had become warn and was about to break! This was our only mechanical fault on the whole trip. Luckily Jonathan Maddock has managed to fit us in tomorrow to fit a replacement before we drive to Heathrow on Friday.
Now the packing starts for Thailand!
On the drive back from the tunnel we started to hear a squeek from the Land Rover. A universal joint on the front propshaft had become warn and was about to break! This was our only mechanical fault on the whole trip. Luckily Jonathan Maddock has managed to fit us in tomorrow to fit a replacement before we drive to Heathrow on Friday.
Now the packing starts for Thailand!
Day 137 Sunday 31/01/10
After a late morning start we continued our journey to Calais. We were booked on the 1:45am tunnel crossing to England. The drive was 11 hours of motorway driving – easy but boring. We stopped in Reims for a Chinese meal before continuing to Calais and the tunnel.
Day 136 Saturday 30/01/10
We dragged ourselves out of bed at 6:30am and looked out onto 5” of fresh snow! We set off at 7:00am to drive to Stuttgart and the roads were still thick with snow. It was a slow drive out of Budapest and along the motorways of Hungary but as we reached Austria the snow was clearing.
We had a long day (16 hours) of driving and made it into Stuttgart by 11:00pm to meet Karen – a Lebanese caver now working in Germany. We stopped the night with Karen at her flat in a snowy Stuttgart.
We had a long day (16 hours) of driving and made it into Stuttgart by 11:00pm to meet Karen – a Lebanese caver now working in Germany. We stopped the night with Karen at her flat in a snowy Stuttgart.
Day 135 Friday 29/01/10
Whilst Szilvi, Anton and Emma went for a walk in the snow to a nearby hill, Mike stayed behind to cook everyone a meal. We wanted to cook an “English” as a thank you to them, so Beef in beer with Yorkshire Puddings was on the menu.
Later that evening there was a party at Szilvi and Anton’s flat with more friends. This was a perfect send-off for us before leaving Hungary in the morning.
Later that evening there was a party at Szilvi and Anton’s flat with more friends. This was a perfect send-off for us before leaving Hungary in the morning.
Saturday 30 January 2010
Day 134 Thursday 28/01/10
Mr Dyson (Csabi) was to be our tour guide to Budapest for the morning. We travelled in to the city on the suburban train and met Csabi at the station. We were taken to the hospital in the rock – an underground hospital from WWII and a “secret” nuclear bunker from the cold war. It is a very interesting tour and worth seeing. We then went to some more caves under the castle called the “Labyrinth” which was a very strange tour (old caves filled with modern art). After a spot of shopping and eating “Langos”, we said goodbye to Csabi at the train station and headed back to Szilvi and Anton’s flat.
An evening caving trip had been arranged with Peter Zentay, so we met Peter, Aggi and Peter’s father, Zsolt at the Pal Volgi cave for a trip into Matthias Cave. We had a great trip in the cave and got very hot – but cooled down in the pub with a beer!
An evening caving trip had been arranged with Peter Zentay, so we met Peter, Aggi and Peter’s father, Zsolt at the Pal Volgi cave for a trip into Matthias Cave. We had a great trip in the cave and got very hot – but cooled down in the pub with a beer!
Day 133 Wednesday 27/01/10
We were invited to Marci and Agnes’s flat for lunch and saw Marci’s photographs from their recent caving expedition to the deepest cave in the world (-2040m) in Aphasia (near Russia). In the evening we went to the thermal baths at Gelert with Marci. MC had a dental appointment at 8:30pm with Marci’s dentist, so we had a meal in Budapest before heading up to the dentist (tooth problem that had continued since Tunisia).
Wednesday 27 January 2010
Day 132 Tuesday 26/01/10
We planned to drive to Hungary today but had an invite to visit Brana’s parents before we left Belgrade and Bebek wanted to show us some more of Belgrade too. We stopped off for tea and cake at Brana’s parents and jump started one of their cars from the Land Rover battery before driving to a local park to have a walk. It was great to have such wonderful accommodation, food and city tour guides for our first visit to Serbia. We cannot wait to go back and visit this country in slightly warmer weather and to explore the country and its caves. Many thanks Bebek and Brana!
We set off at 2:00pm to Hungary and the drive was very easy. The route was motorway all the way and we made it to Budapest by 8:00pm. We met our good friend, Marci, just off the ring-road and followed him to our next “caver” accommodation with our other good friends, Szilvi and Anton. We have been very lucky for our return leg of the journey to have so many good friends to provide help, great meals and a bed for the night!
We set off at 2:00pm to Hungary and the drive was very easy. The route was motorway all the way and we made it to Budapest by 8:00pm. We met our good friend, Marci, just off the ring-road and followed him to our next “caver” accommodation with our other good friends, Szilvi and Anton. We have been very lucky for our return leg of the journey to have so many good friends to provide help, great meals and a bed for the night!
Day 131 Monday 25/01/10
Bebek took the day off work to show us round Belgrade. We travelled in by bus and spent the day in the city, calling in on an old Turkish bar to sample the local beer.
Day 130 Sunday 24/01/10
We had an early start to drive to Serbia. On getting out to the Land Rover, MC found that someone had hit the Land Rover and damaged the back corner. The vehicle survived 4 months of North Africa and sustained its only bodywork damage with only one week to go!
It was very cold and we set off driving wrapped up in coats and ski salopettes. We thought that we may have some problems at the Serbian border as our Land Rover, at a gross weight of 3500kg, is classed as a lorry in Serbia. If we had to enter as a lorry, it would mean a long queue with many HGV’s on the border. As it happened, we sailed through the car lane in two minutes with no hassle!
We had arranged to meet Bebek, a Serbian caver that we met in Hungary last new year, in his home town of Jagodina and then travel to Belgrade with him and his wife (Brana) to their flat. It turned out that we were meeting them at Bebek’s niece’s birthday party and were fed before we could leave.
It was very cold and we set off driving wrapped up in coats and ski salopettes. We thought that we may have some problems at the Serbian border as our Land Rover, at a gross weight of 3500kg, is classed as a lorry in Serbia. If we had to enter as a lorry, it would mean a long queue with many HGV’s on the border. As it happened, we sailed through the car lane in two minutes with no hassle!
We had arranged to meet Bebek, a Serbian caver that we met in Hungary last new year, in his home town of Jagodina and then travel to Belgrade with him and his wife (Brana) to their flat. It turned out that we were meeting them at Bebek’s niece’s birthday party and were fed before we could leave.
Day 129 Saturday 23/01/10
Awoke to another cold day, so after sorting the emails and repacking the Land Rover, we went for a walk with Dudley around V.T. In the evening we all went to a local restaurant for a meal with some more ex-pats. Thanks again to the Thorpes and it was great to catch up with you!
Saturday 23 January 2010
Day 128 Friday 22/01/10
With the weather in Eastern Europe being so cold (down to -20 degrees C) we decided to head back to the UK quicker than originally planned. We booked tickets to Thailand to spend February in the sun – caving with the Shepton Mallet Caving Club!
After lunch we headed out with Dudley to visit a near-by gorge and (frozen?) waterfall. On the way there, Dudley’s car got stuck in the snow, so MC and EP got out to give it a push. It was at this time that MC spotted a flat back tyre. A quick wheel change was needed and we headed to the nearby village to find a tyre repair shop. With a new, second-hand, tyre on the car we gave up on the tourist thing and headed back to V.T.
After lunch we headed out with Dudley to visit a near-by gorge and (frozen?) waterfall. On the way there, Dudley’s car got stuck in the snow, so MC and EP got out to give it a push. It was at this time that MC spotted a flat back tyre. A quick wheel change was needed and we headed to the nearby village to find a tyre repair shop. With a new, second-hand, tyre on the car we gave up on the tourist thing and headed back to V.T.
Day 127 Thursday 21/01/10
We arrived in V.T. at 5:00am – one hour early. A short taxi ride had us back at the Thorpe’s house and we crept in and slept for 5 hours! Bulgaria was cold (about -10 degrees C) and covered in snow. We had a lazy day chatting with Dudley before heading out to do a bit of shopping and then meeting up with the Thorpe clan for a meal in town.
Day 126 Wednesday 20/01/10
We had a day to kill before getting on the coach. It was cold but not raining! We walked across a bridge into Asia and into the other part of Istanbul. After catching the tram back to Europe we had a visit to the Blue Mosque before going back to the hostel to kill some time on the internet.
A taxi picked us up at 6:30pm and took us to the coach station. We found our coach and our seats and waited for the off. We left on time and headed for the border, crossing just before midnight.
A taxi picked us up at 6:30pm and took us to the coach station. We found our coach and our seats and waited for the off. We left on time and headed for the border, crossing just before midnight.
Day 125 Tuesday 19/01/10
JC set off from Beirut to head to Cyprus via Syria. JC had a cunning plan to avoid the cold weather of Eastern Europe.... we will see if it works!
The rain had turned to sleet and snow in Istanbul but we used the tram and Metro to go out to the main coach station and book our tickets back to Bulgaria. The tickets were 40 Lyria each for the 10 hour coach ride to Veliko Turnovo. We were booked on the 8:00pm coach for the next day.
On the way back to the hostel, we called in at the spice market for a quick look. With the weather being so cold, we decided to head back to the hostel to use the internet and look at flights to Thailand.
The rain had turned to sleet and snow in Istanbul but we used the tram and Metro to go out to the main coach station and book our tickets back to Bulgaria. The tickets were 40 Lyria each for the 10 hour coach ride to Veliko Turnovo. We were booked on the 8:00pm coach for the next day.
On the way back to the hostel, we called in at the spice market for a quick look. With the weather being so cold, we decided to head back to the hostel to use the internet and look at flights to Thailand.
Day 124 Monday 18/01/10
Today was the day that the three of us parted company. EP and MC crept out of Hadi’s flat at 3:15am to drive to the airport. After handing back the hire car we checked our bags in and waited for our flight to Istanbul. The plane was almost on time leaving and we landed at Istanbul a few minutes later than planned.
We were met by the shuttle driver that we had booked to take us to our hostel and we got to the Mavi Guesthouse by 9:00am. We were both tired after the early start from Beirut, so slept until lunchtime.
We awoke to a cold and wet Istanbul. So, digging out the Gortex jackets for the first time of the trip, we walked into the city. The Grand Bazaar was a good choice as it was covered and we could escape the rain.
We were met by the shuttle driver that we had booked to take us to our hostel and we got to the Mavi Guesthouse by 9:00am. We were both tired after the early start from Beirut, so slept until lunchtime.
We awoke to a cold and wet Istanbul. So, digging out the Gortex jackets for the first time of the trip, we walked into the city. The Grand Bazaar was a good choice as it was covered and we could escape the rain.
Sunday 17 January 2010
Day 123 Sunday 17/01/10
Our last day in Lebanon! We went to Antelias to visit a small cave in the quarry called Qanaan. This cave, although only 300m long is very well decorated and needs to be revisited with camera equipment next time. The 3 Brits were joined by Hiba, who had not been in this cave before, whilst Rena and Issaam went to look at another new cave in the same quarry.
After a quick trip it was back to Issaam's house to clean our caving kit and the rope that we had borrowed from Issam before driving back to Hadi's appartment.
After a quick trip it was back to Issaam's house to clean our caving kit and the rope that we had borrowed from Issam before driving back to Hadi's appartment.
Day 122 Saturday 16/01/10
We were invited to join Rena and Issaam on a trip to the Bekaa Valley to find a cave that Rena last visited 5 years ago. On her previous trip she picked up an old bear claw - so the plan was to revisit this cave and look for more evidence.
Once we found the right road out of the village we parked up and were met by some locals. Issaam and Rena had a conversation with them and were told of another cave in the next valley.
We gathered up our packs, walked gingerly through packs of barking dogs, and headed up the hillside in bright sunshine. We expected a 45 minute walk - but with only vague recollections as to where the cave was, we wandered around the hills for 3 hours until we found the entrance.
We did not have much time left, so EP, JC, MC and Issaam went into the cave for a quick explore. It is a muddy cave with some crawls to a climb. After the climb there is a short passage to a pitch down to running water and a sump. We stopped at the pitch head and then headed out. We all decided that we had seen better caves in Lebanon - but the surrounding scenery was fantastic!
In the evening we were all invited to a BBQ at a club member's beach house. We had a great evening with SCL members and loads of food and drink! Thank you to all those involved with the organisation.
Once we found the right road out of the village we parked up and were met by some locals. Issaam and Rena had a conversation with them and were told of another cave in the next valley.
We gathered up our packs, walked gingerly through packs of barking dogs, and headed up the hillside in bright sunshine. We expected a 45 minute walk - but with only vague recollections as to where the cave was, we wandered around the hills for 3 hours until we found the entrance.
We did not have much time left, so EP, JC, MC and Issaam went into the cave for a quick explore. It is a muddy cave with some crawls to a climb. After the climb there is a short passage to a pitch down to running water and a sump. We stopped at the pitch head and then headed out. We all decided that we had seen better caves in Lebanon - but the surrounding scenery was fantastic!
In the evening we were all invited to a BBQ at a club member's beach house. We had a great evening with SCL members and loads of food and drink! Thank you to all those involved with the organisation.
Day 121 Friday 15/01/10
With a better weather forecast we thought we would try looking for new caves in the area that we had been in on Wednesday. Today the weather was perfect with clear blue skies and sun shine.
Driving to the area JC and EP spotted an entrance next to a new road. We took a GPS fix and JC explored inside what turned out to be an old Iron mine. Later we found that it was known to SCL.
We met a few locals and showed them a statement that Issaam had written for us in arabic, explaining what we were doing. We were directed to Sannine but it was to a spring that was well known (Nabaa Sannine). JC went inside the man-made entrance but it ended after approx. 90m at a boulder pile.
Driving to the area JC and EP spotted an entrance next to a new road. We took a GPS fix and JC explored inside what turned out to be an old Iron mine. Later we found that it was known to SCL.
We met a few locals and showed them a statement that Issaam had written for us in arabic, explaining what we were doing. We were directed to Sannine but it was to a spring that was well known (Nabaa Sannine). JC went inside the man-made entrance but it ended after approx. 90m at a boulder pile.
Day 120 Thursday 14/01/10
We drove back up to the Hrajel area to find Ain Seraaiya. The cave is situated in a quarry, which the local cavers hope will not be lost should the quarry extend.
We parked above the cave near a small church and climbed down the hillside to the entrance. The cave has a stream flowing out and we walked in the stream passage, with the occasional diversion over muddy breakdown, to the end of the cave. The cave closed down at the end with a potential dig site for the future!
On our way out we spent some time taking photographs but on reaching the entrance the air temperature had dropped dramatically. The walk back to the car was hard with frozen feet and hands!
In the evening we went along to the SCL club meeting and showed a caving DVD, brought over from the UK. We then handed over some cave rescue equipment that, again, we brought from the UK (kindly donated by Gloucestershire Cave Rescue Group).
We parked above the cave near a small church and climbed down the hillside to the entrance. The cave has a stream flowing out and we walked in the stream passage, with the occasional diversion over muddy breakdown, to the end of the cave. The cave closed down at the end with a potential dig site for the future!
On our way out we spent some time taking photographs but on reaching the entrance the air temperature had dropped dramatically. The walk back to the car was hard with frozen feet and hands!
In the evening we went along to the SCL club meeting and showed a caving DVD, brought over from the UK. We then handed over some cave rescue equipment that, again, we brought from the UK (kindly donated by Gloucestershire Cave Rescue Group).
Friday 15 January 2010
Day 119 Wednesday 13/01/10
Issaam had told us of an area that had not been explored for caves by SCL. We decided to spend the day looking for new potential in this area. We drove up to the Sannine area in the bright sunshine. With some problems in route finding, when we finally got to our target area, the fog and rain had descended.
We could not see past the edge of the road - which did not make for efficient cave hunting! Driving back to Beirut we had rain, hail and floods to contend with - along with Lebanese driving!
We could not see past the edge of the road - which did not make for efficient cave hunting! Driving back to Beirut we had rain, hail and floods to contend with - along with Lebanese driving!
Day 118 Tuesday 12/01/10
MC went to collect the new (smaller) hire car and then the 3 of us set off to survey our new find near Hrajel. We entered the cave and surveyed it to it's end (343m). Upon exiting the cave we met the land owner who did not seem too pleased that we were there - so it was a quick exit back to the car without obtaining a (local) name for the cave - so, at present, it stays as "bedstead cave" as named by Steve.
Day 117 Monday 11/01/10
Up at 3:30am to take Rick and Steve to the airport, back to bed by 4:30am and up at 7:30am to take the hire car back.
After this it was a quiet day. We went shopping to cook an "English" for Hadi. We had a night in with a Sunday roast on a Monday - c/o JC and MC (and a couple of bottles of wine).
After this it was a quiet day. We went shopping to cook an "English" for Hadi. We had a night in with a Sunday roast on a Monday - c/o JC and MC (and a couple of bottles of wine).
Day 116 Sunday 10/01/10
The highlight of the week - a trip into Jeita! As the water levels seemed low for this time of year, we were very fortunate to be able to have a caving trip into the depths of this spectacular show cave, the longest in Lebanon.
We (the 5 Brits and Issaam, Rena and Hiba) entered via the lower entrance of the show cave, which consists of a 660m long lake. This time we were in boats and not swimming but it is still fantastic (apart from the uncoordinated rowing!). The cave is beautifully decorated and the sounds of dripping water echo all around.
Once we had reached the end of the lake, we climbing up and down over boulders to Chaos and the Step. The water at the Step was extremely high and strong. Eric, Steve and John went on for a short distance and even inflated the new dinghy from Scarborough but could not proceed further.
A great trip was had by all - thanks to the show cave management and SCL for arranging access.
We (the 5 Brits and Issaam, Rena and Hiba) entered via the lower entrance of the show cave, which consists of a 660m long lake. This time we were in boats and not swimming but it is still fantastic (apart from the uncoordinated rowing!). The cave is beautifully decorated and the sounds of dripping water echo all around.
Once we had reached the end of the lake, we climbing up and down over boulders to Chaos and the Step. The water at the Step was extremely high and strong. Eric, Steve and John went on for a short distance and even inflated the new dinghy from Scarborough but could not proceed further.
A great trip was had by all - thanks to the show cave management and SCL for arranging access.
Day 115 Saturday 09/01/10
After a manaeesh stop, the five of us headed upto Nabaa El Hadid together with Issaam, Rena and Rena's cousin on her first caving trip. We explored the cave then Rena measured the waterflow whilst we took photos.
EP, Eric (Rick) and Steve then ventured down Nabaa el Qana where Eric managed to disturb a bat.
EP, Eric (Rick) and Steve then ventured down Nabaa el Qana where Eric managed to disturb a bat.
Day 114 Friday 08/01/10
With Hadi's accident the previous night, it was not possible for our planned underground trip to take place. Instead, we spent the morning looking after the invalid before we had a tourist trip around Byblos for Rick to go snorkelling. The world famous cave diver bottled out after seeing the litter on the beach!
Day 113 Thursday 07/01/10
Afqa Cave. All the time we have been coming to Lebanon the water levels have been too high to get into Afqa. The cave has a massive entrance with an impressive waterfall pouring out. The previous weekend we drove past the cave and the water levels were lower than we had seen in the past, so we decided to visit the cave today.
Afqa is where Adonis met his death and also where Adonis and Aphrodite exchanged their first kiss. The five Brits , armed with the recent SCL survey entered the cave to explore. The cave is a maze of small tunnels and we had a few route finding issues at first. We explored most of the cave but had a time restraint as Rick was due to give a presentation at the SCL club that night.
On the evening SCL were having the official opening of their new library at the club, so there was a TV company present to film the event and interview Rick (or Eric to our Lebanese friends). The evening had an unexpected ending when Hadi slipped off the first holds of their indoor climbing wall and dislocated his knee. After some first aid an ambulance was called to take Hadi to hospital to have his knee cap put back in place.
Hadi came home accompanied by Rena and Issaam by 1:30am with his knee in place and splinted.
Afqa is where Adonis met his death and also where Adonis and Aphrodite exchanged their first kiss. The five Brits , armed with the recent SCL survey entered the cave to explore. The cave is a maze of small tunnels and we had a few route finding issues at first. We explored most of the cave but had a time restraint as Rick was due to give a presentation at the SCL club that night.
On the evening SCL were having the official opening of their new library at the club, so there was a TV company present to film the event and interview Rick (or Eric to our Lebanese friends). The evening had an unexpected ending when Hadi slipped off the first holds of their indoor climbing wall and dislocated his knee. After some first aid an ambulance was called to take Hadi to hospital to have his knee cap put back in place.
Hadi came home accompanied by Rena and Issaam by 1:30am with his knee in place and splinted.
Thursday 14 January 2010
Day 112 Wednesday 06/01/10
We planned a trip to see our friends in Houqa and to descend the cave on their land today. Whilst driving up into the mountains EP sent a text to Antoinette to warn of our invasion, but received a text back to say that the Grandma had died on Saturday and they were in mourning. We were still welcome to visit, so we pressed on.
It was a more sombre greeting than normal when we arrived but we were still made very welcome. The 5 of us abseiled into the cave to show the 3 newcomers the amazing formations at the bottom of the cave.
We called in on the family when we exited the cave and were given coffee and apples. After leaving the house we continued down the valley to a monestry in the valley floor to look for more caves.
It was a more sombre greeting than normal when we arrived but we were still made very welcome. The 5 of us abseiled into the cave to show the 3 newcomers the amazing formations at the bottom of the cave.
We called in on the family when we exited the cave and were given coffee and apples. After leaving the house we continued down the valley to a monestry in the valley floor to look for more caves.
Day 111 Tuesday 05/01/10
JC arrived back in Beirut by 9:30am, so the 5 Brits piled into the hire car and headed for the village of Hrajel to visit the cave Nabaa el Mghara, which Issaam told us was easy to find and close to the road.
We found the correct road and after asking a couple of locals we found the cave entrance but it was gated and locked. After a quick phone call to Hadi, he told us that there was another entrance higher up that you could use to climb down into the cave. We set off on the hillside looking for this second entrance. Whilst searching the hillside a local man came up to us and was talking in Arabic to us and pointing up the hill. Again, with Hadi as our phone interpreter, we learnt that there was another cave higher up.
JC, Rick and Steve went into Nabaa el Mghara whilst EP and MC went loking for the new cave. The entrance was discovered and we went in to explore and photograph. The cave had seen a lot of local traffic and there was a lot of graffiti on the walls and old torches on the floor.
On our return to Beirut we described the location of the new cave but the Lebanese cavers did not recognise our description - a new cave for SCL?
We found the correct road and after asking a couple of locals we found the cave entrance but it was gated and locked. After a quick phone call to Hadi, he told us that there was another entrance higher up that you could use to climb down into the cave. We set off on the hillside looking for this second entrance. Whilst searching the hillside a local man came up to us and was talking in Arabic to us and pointing up the hill. Again, with Hadi as our phone interpreter, we learnt that there was another cave higher up.
JC, Rick and Steve went into Nabaa el Mghara whilst EP and MC went loking for the new cave. The entrance was discovered and we went in to explore and photograph. The cave had seen a lot of local traffic and there was a lot of graffiti on the walls and old torches on the floor.
On our return to Beirut we described the location of the new cave but the Lebanese cavers did not recognise our description - a new cave for SCL?
Wednesday 13 January 2010
Day 110 Monday 04/01/10
Today Val flew back to the UK from Jordan and JC headed back to Syria, enroute for Lebanon.
EP and MC woke to rain! We drove up to Issaam's house and spent a couple of hours looking at maps and surveys to plan caving trips for the next two weeks.
After leaving Issaam's house we continued into the mountains to search for a valley that has not been checked for caves yet. The fog came down with more rain and we could not find the area we were looking for. We gave up and headed back to Beirut.
We drove to the airport at Midnight to collect Steve Round and Rick Stanton who were joining us for a week of caving in Lebanon.
EP and MC woke to rain! We drove up to Issaam's house and spent a couple of hours looking at maps and surveys to plan caving trips for the next two weeks.
After leaving Issaam's house we continued into the mountains to search for a valley that has not been checked for caves yet. The fog came down with more rain and we could not find the area we were looking for. We gave up and headed back to Beirut.
We drove to the airport at Midnight to collect Steve Round and Rick Stanton who were joining us for a week of caving in Lebanon.
Day 109 Sunday 03/01/10
We were collected from Hadi's place by Rena and set off to meet Issaam and Hiba. We were going to look at a new cave that Hiba had found.
The cave was close to Beirut but needed a walk in through lots of vegetation to get to it. The cave was not too long, consisting of two chambers with a short crawl off but was home to many fruit bats. The cave was surveyed by Rena, Hadi and Hiba whilst Issaam, Emma and Mike took photos.
The cave was close to Beirut but needed a walk in through lots of vegetation to get to it. The cave was not too long, consisting of two chambers with a short crawl off but was home to many fruit bats. The cave was surveyed by Rena, Hadi and Hiba whilst Issaam, Emma and Mike took photos.
Day 108 Saturday 02/01/10
JC and VI set off riding to Jordan via Damascus.
EP and MC went to find a section of the Lebanon Mountain Trail (a long distance hike that runs north/south across most of Lebanon). We drove to a small village east of Beirut where the (basic) guidebook shows the trail crossing.
After spending a long time driving around the village, looking in vain, we were stopped by a local (Elias) and we asked for some directions. He did not speak English and we got directions to the next village. He then invited us back to his house for coffee, so he jumped into our car and we headed off to his house in the village.
After coffee and apples we drove Elias to the next village before heding back towards Beirut - having given up on the trail! We found a river gorge and decided we would hike up this gorge instead.
EP and MC went to find a section of the Lebanon Mountain Trail (a long distance hike that runs north/south across most of Lebanon). We drove to a small village east of Beirut where the (basic) guidebook shows the trail crossing.
After spending a long time driving around the village, looking in vain, we were stopped by a local (Elias) and we asked for some directions. He did not speak English and we got directions to the next village. He then invited us back to his house for coffee, so he jumped into our car and we headed off to his house in the village.
After coffee and apples we drove Elias to the next village before heding back towards Beirut - having given up on the trail! We found a river gorge and decided we would hike up this gorge instead.
Monday 11 January 2010
Day 107 Friday 01/01/10
Once everyone had managed to tear themselves away from their beds, we drove up to the Cedars Reserve for a walk in the Chouf Cedars. Just like our previous visit to this area in 2004 the fog came down! Luckily it wasn't as thick as 6 years ago and we could see the trees!
Rather than heading straight back to Beirut we drove into the Bekaa valley and back via the Damascus road.
Rather than heading straight back to Beirut we drove into the Bekaa valley and back via the Damascus road.
Sunday 10 January 2010
Day 106 Thursday 31/12/09
We collected the hire car from Avis at the Pheonicia Hotel and drove back to our slightly less expensive hotel to collect our bags. We headed over to Hadi's appartment to drop off our bags before meeting up with Rena and Issaam and we drove in convoy down to the Chouf mountains for a new year eve party (arranged by Karen's sister-in-law).
We met up with about 30 Lebanese for a great party in the mountains.
We met up with about 30 Lebanese for a great party in the mountains.
Day 105 Wednesday 30/12/09
After a bit of a late start MC and EP went into Beirut for a walk whilst JC and VI attempted to visit Byblos and not get caught in rain (again).
In the evening we all met up with Hadi, Rena, Karen and Issaam from our Lebanese caving club (SCL) for a meal.
In the evening we all met up with Hadi, Rena, Karen and Issaam from our Lebanese caving club (SCL) for a meal.
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