We are currently in Libya but struggling to find Wifi. When we do, we will update the blog........
Bye for now
Em, Mike and John
Sunday 22 November 2009
Friday 13 November 2009
Day 54 Monday 09/11/09
We had an invite from Abdou to visit Sfax, so all headed south, going via Sousse to arrange a hotel for later in the week.
We arrived in Sfax to be met by Abdou and Waleed (a Geology student and new caver). We were taken to the university and asked to give a talk to a group of students interested in trying caving. We showed the 2008 China slideshow and some pictures of British caves (thanks to the internet and the Dudley Caving Club website).
After the talk we went to the local maison des jeune to book in for the night. We were all invited to Abdou’s parents’ house for a meal and so followed Abdou on his moped.
We arrived in Sfax to be met by Abdou and Waleed (a Geology student and new caver). We were taken to the university and asked to give a talk to a group of students interested in trying caving. We showed the 2008 China slideshow and some pictures of British caves (thanks to the internet and the Dudley Caving Club website).
After the talk we went to the local maison des jeune to book in for the night. We were all invited to Abdou’s parents’ house for a meal and so followed Abdou on his moped.
Day 53 Sunday 08/11/09
We awoke at 6:30 to the sound of people putting on SRT kit. We thought we were going to visit chamber two, but found everyone exiting the cave! We headed out and got out by 10:30 only to meet a group of 20+ Polish cavers going in.
We drove back to Zaghouan and met the local cavers for a coffee and to plan a trip for the following weekend.
We drove back to Zaghouan and met the local cavers for a coffee and to plan a trip for the following weekend.
Day 52 Saturday 07/11/09
We arrived at Fahs at just before 9am and waited for the Bizerte cavers to arrive. We all met up (all 15 of us) and drove for approx 90 minutes to the cave (Grotte de la Mine or rhar djebel serdj). We were to camp inside the cave, so we all walked up the hillside, laden down with a variety of bags.
The entrance is via old mine workings and descends two inclines (abseils) and an old iron ladder into the large first chamber. It took a long time to get all persons into the cave as the Bizerte cavers need to share SRT kits. Once in we set off for a look round this impressive chamber, after a quick, impromptu disco thanks to JC and his ipod! Later in the evening some of the group settled down to sleep, others went off to visit the “chimney” and the Brits stayed behind to photograph the chamber. At 11:30pm we attempted to get some sleep.
The entrance is via old mine workings and descends two inclines (abseils) and an old iron ladder into the large first chamber. It took a long time to get all persons into the cave as the Bizerte cavers need to share SRT kits. Once in we set off for a look round this impressive chamber, after a quick, impromptu disco thanks to JC and his ipod! Later in the evening some of the group settled down to sleep, others went off to visit the “chimney” and the Brits stayed behind to photograph the chamber. At 11:30pm we attempted to get some sleep.
Day 51 Friday 06/11/09
Driving north for the day, we headed back for a night in Zaghouan. We needed to be in Fahs, 25km from Zaghouan by 8am the next morning to meet the Bizerte Caving Club for a two-day caving trip. We booked back in at the maison des jeune (youth centre) and bumped into some of the Zaghouan cavers (who were quite surprised to see us).
A quick sms to the Bizerte cavers and we find we have an extra hour in the morning before meeting them.
A quick sms to the Bizerte cavers and we find we have an extra hour in the morning before meeting them.
Day 50 Thursday 05/11/09
The plan was to head for the small town of Mides and walk down the gorge nearby. We were on our way by 7:30, driving to Mides. We got into the gorge after beating off local guides and coffee sellers and walked down, following the stream, until we were stopped by a large pool of water and our need to be back on the road.
We then drove across a large salt lake (Chott el-Jerid) to Douz and then on to Matmata and a below ground hotel (the Marhala). We booked half-board for 16 Dinars each (about £8.00)!
We then drove across a large salt lake (Chott el-Jerid) to Douz and then on to Matmata and a below ground hotel (the Marhala). We booked half-board for 16 Dinars each (about £8.00)!
Day 49 Wednesday 04/11/09
After saying goodbye to the youth centre director (and getting our room fees back), we started the long drive south to the Saraha and the town of Tozeur. We arrived in town by late afternoon and found a campsite.
Wednesday 4 November 2009
Day 48 Tuesday 03/11/09
We met the Zaghouan cavers at 7:30 and went next door for a coffee. After loading up the kit we drove off to the nearby mountain to find the cave (Ete 2000 (Summer 2000)). Eight of us set off up the hill, the four Brits and Ghassen, Sofien, Mourad and Abdou (a new caver from Sfax who caves with the Bizerte club).
After a steep scramble down the mountain side to the cave entrance, Ghassen went in to rig. The cave is a vertical system with a couple of awkward rebelays. As VI had done no SRT underground yet, she and JC decided to give this cave a miss. At the entrance we also discovered that this was one of Abdou’s first vertical trips. The six of us headed down slowly with MC and EP giving some tips and guidance on rigging techniques.
Coming out MC and EP went first, taking some photos on the way. Leaving the bottom of the cave Abdou was hit on the thigh by a large stone causing him some discomfort! This slowed down the exit and it was dark before all were out of the cave and it derigged. We all scrambled back up the mountain and down the road to the parked cars. We arrived back at the youth centre by 7:30pm, slightly later than planned!
We were taken out for a meal by the cavers and the meal, plus our accommodation was to be paid for by the youth centre of Zaghouan which was a very pleasant surprise to us all.
After a steep scramble down the mountain side to the cave entrance, Ghassen went in to rig. The cave is a vertical system with a couple of awkward rebelays. As VI had done no SRT underground yet, she and JC decided to give this cave a miss. At the entrance we also discovered that this was one of Abdou’s first vertical trips. The six of us headed down slowly with MC and EP giving some tips and guidance on rigging techniques.
Coming out MC and EP went first, taking some photos on the way. Leaving the bottom of the cave Abdou was hit on the thigh by a large stone causing him some discomfort! This slowed down the exit and it was dark before all were out of the cave and it derigged. We all scrambled back up the mountain and down the road to the parked cars. We arrived back at the youth centre by 7:30pm, slightly later than planned!
We were taken out for a meal by the cavers and the meal, plus our accommodation was to be paid for by the youth centre of Zaghouan which was a very pleasant surprise to us all.
Day 47 Monday 02/11/09
We had a caving trip planned for the next day with the Zaghouan Caving Club (thanks to Mohsen), so we all decided to meet in Zaghouan in the afternoon.
JC and VI rode up from Monastir whilst EP and MC drove from the hotel in Teboursouk to Tunis. The guidebook described a hotel and cafe in Tunis that had free Wifi, so we thought we could get a coffee an update the (very out of date) blog. We sat in the hotel foyer with a cup of coffee and a coke and spent two hours on the internet.
We all met at the youth centre at 5:30 and were met by some of the caving club. Their club HQ is based at the youth centre and we had a look round and discussed the next day’s trip. They then took us out for a coffee at a nearby coffee house, before arranging to meet the next day at 7:00am for breakfast.
JC and VI rode up from Monastir whilst EP and MC drove from the hotel in Teboursouk to Tunis. The guidebook described a hotel and cafe in Tunis that had free Wifi, so we thought we could get a coffee an update the (very out of date) blog. We sat in the hotel foyer with a cup of coffee and a coke and spent two hours on the internet.
We all met at the youth centre at 5:30 and were met by some of the caving club. Their club HQ is based at the youth centre and we had a look round and discussed the next day’s trip. They then took us out for a coffee at a nearby coffee house, before arranging to meet the next day at 7:00am for breakfast.
Monday 2 November 2009
Day 46 Sunday 01/11/09
We joined some of the cavers and a group of people connected by Facebook for an excursion organised by Mohsen to the ancient sites of Bulla Regia, Chemtou and then to the National Park El Feija on the Algerian border. At the park, the Tunisians spent a long time photographing a stag – they were quite amazed when we explained that we have too many so they are culled and we eat them!
Most of the Tunisians had never been to any of these sites, and have not really explored their own country. They were a very friendly group of people and we had some excellent translators, especially Aida (a big thank you!).
Upon leaving the park, we were stopped by National Guard, asking us many questions that we simply could not understand. We were very grateful when the coach stopped and Mohsen and Hamza appeared to explain that we were with them!
Most of the Tunisians had never been to any of these sites, and have not really explored their own country. They were a very friendly group of people and we had some excellent translators, especially Aida (a big thank you!).
Upon leaving the park, we were stopped by National Guard, asking us many questions that we simply could not understand. We were very grateful when the coach stopped and Mohsen and Hamza appeared to explain that we were with them!
Day 45 Saturday 31/10/09
We met Hamza at the club HQ in the youth centre after emptying the Land Rover (quite a task) to fit two more people in. After packing the kit, we drove to Tunis to pick up Myriam before heading west to Nefza.
The cave is a short but steep walk up a hillside, just outside the village. After a short crawl into the cave we met a sloping pitch down into the first chamber. This was rigged with a ladder and lifeline. The cave has three chambers in which we attempted some photographs.
We came out at dusk and had a walk back to the car in the dark. Waiting for us was the National Guard, who wanted our names and ID numbers (we left the talking to Hamza and Myriam).
Having dropped Hamza and Myriam back in Tunis, we drove back to Bizerte, getting back to the youth centre at 10:30pm.
The cave is a short but steep walk up a hillside, just outside the village. After a short crawl into the cave we met a sloping pitch down into the first chamber. This was rigged with a ladder and lifeline. The cave has three chambers in which we attempted some photographs.
We came out at dusk and had a walk back to the car in the dark. Waiting for us was the National Guard, who wanted our names and ID numbers (we left the talking to Hamza and Myriam).
Having dropped Hamza and Myriam back in Tunis, we drove back to Bizerte, getting back to the youth centre at 10:30pm.
Day 44 Friday 30/10/09
Drove into Tunis to meet Mohsen and his wife and visit the capital. When Mohsen and his wife had to leave we were passed to Anouar (another caver from Bizerte) and his fianceé. They took us into the Medina to buy some makhroud, look at all the toy camels and barter for us! In the afternoon we were joined by Amine who took us via the local train service to Sidi Bou Said, a small town to the south of Tunis, popular with tourists. Mohsen joined us at the end of the afternoon in Sidi Bou Said before driving us back to Tunis to collect our car.
As we had a caving trip arranged for the next day, EP and MC drove back to Bizerte to stay at the youth centre for another couple of nights.
As we had a caving trip arranged for the next day, EP and MC drove back to Bizerte to stay at the youth centre for another couple of nights.
Day 43 Thursday 29/10/09
Leaving Sbeitla we drove north to El Kef and had a short walk around the town. We then drove on to Dougga, which has a Roman town (a world heritage site) above it. For 4 dinars each and 1 dinar for a camera, we had an hour walking round this well preserved site.
For the night we decided to car camp near Teboursouk, as it was on our way to Tunis, where we were to meet some of the cavers from the Bizerte caving club the next day.
For the night we decided to car camp near Teboursouk, as it was on our way to Tunis, where we were to meet some of the cavers from the Bizerte caving club the next day.
Day 42 Wednesday 28/10/09
Getting up early, in the mist, we drove down off Jugurtha’s Table to head for Tunisia’s highest mountain, but within 5km of leaving, we had our passports and details phoned through twice! Jebel Chambi is Tunisia’s highest mountain at 1544m in its own National Park near Kasserine. After a passport check at the entrance, we were allowed in. The guidebook describes a two hour walk after a drive up a rough 4x4 track. We started driving up a steep metalled road and ended up at 1500m next to some telecom masts. It was a 5 minute walk to the summit!
After driving down and out of the national park, we headed for Sbeitla and a lovely small hotel getting a double room and breakfast for approx. £13 for the two of us. We also met a French caver here, on holiday with his family.
After driving down and out of the national park, we headed for Sbeitla and a lovely small hotel getting a double room and breakfast for approx. £13 for the two of us. We also met a French caver here, on holiday with his family.
Day 41 Tuesday 27/10/09
We left Bizerte at 9:00am to drive south. The plan was to head for Jugurtha’s Table, a flat topped mountain near the Algerian border, close to the town of Kalaat es-Senan.
Close to our destination we were stopped at a National Guard checkpoint and were asked for our passports. After a phone call we were handed back our passports and allowed to continue. The guidebook described a two hour walk to reach the top and back, but we found a 4x4 track which lead almost to the summit! A short, 10 minute walk up stone steps, and we were on the top.
Getting back to the car just before dusk, we found a group of Italians had set up camp. We decided to car camp there too. After cooking tea, we were sat reading in the Land Rover when headlights appeared in the darkness. A pair of National Guards had come up to check all passports. Having rung in our details we were bid goodnight.
Today was the day JC would start his ride from Spain to Genoa, in Italy, to catch the ferry to Tunisia on Saturday.
Close to our destination we were stopped at a National Guard checkpoint and were asked for our passports. After a phone call we were handed back our passports and allowed to continue. The guidebook described a two hour walk to reach the top and back, but we found a 4x4 track which lead almost to the summit! A short, 10 minute walk up stone steps, and we were on the top.
Getting back to the car just before dusk, we found a group of Italians had set up camp. We decided to car camp there too. After cooking tea, we were sat reading in the Land Rover when headlights appeared in the darkness. A pair of National Guards had come up to check all passports. Having rung in our details we were bid goodnight.
Today was the day JC would start his ride from Spain to Genoa, in Italy, to catch the ferry to Tunisia on Saturday.
Day 40 Monday 26/10/09
We met Mohsen and Amine for coffee before they went to work and then went into Bizerte for a look around the town, a visit to an internet cafe (we’re getting quicker with Arabic keyboards) and bought some oil for the 6,000 mile service of the Land Rover.
Back at the youth centre, Mike serviced the Land Rover, ready for the next 6,000 miles.
Back at the youth centre, Mike serviced the Land Rover, ready for the next 6,000 miles.
Day 39 Sunday 25/10/09
Docked at 12:30, two hours ahead of schedule and spent over two hours getting through customs. We were met by four friendly members of the Bizerte Caving Club at the port. After a quick coffee stop in Tunis, we followed them up the coast to Bizerte and their club HQ at the youth centre. We discovered that caving is tightly controlled in Tunisia with written permission required from the local government before a trip can take place! Cavers need to report to the National Guard in the town nearest the cave before entering the system. There will be no solo caving trips for the Brits!
We booked a room at the centre for 8TD each per night.
We booked a room at the centre for 8TD each per night.
Day 38 Saturday 24/10/09
We drove to the port and stopped at the shopping centre next to the ferry terminal. Went to McDonalds because it advertised Wifi. Unfortunately Wifi is only available to those with an Italian mobile phone! After calling in at the supermarket we tried to find the ferry terminal. Poor signage and a lack of Italian did not help, but we eventually got into the queue for the ferry – by better luck than judgement!
Day 37 Friday 23/10/09
Continued the drive to Genoa, hoping to find a Wifi area to update the blog. Genoa was busy and manic. We continued to the east of Genoa, still finding no campsites. Again it was back onto the motorway to find a service area to car camp.
JC, needing more treatment for his leg is still in Spain and has delayed his ferry crossing by one week.
JC, needing more treatment for his leg is still in Spain and has delayed his ferry crossing by one week.
Day 36 Thursday 22/10/09
Drove along French coastline and found a small town with a supermarket and laundrette. Had a clothes washing session to catch up on a month of washing! Carried on driving across the Italian border. Due to the lack of campsites open, we decided to head onto the motorway and find a services to car camp at, after a pizza in a small restaurant in a town just over the border.
Day 35 Wednesday 21/10/09
Ferry diverted to Marseille due to bad weather in the night and through the morning. This worked well for MC and EP as it put them further east on the way to Genoa. We landed to heavy rain and strong winds at 11:15am and waited to get out of the port past customs as they searched the mass of Moroccan vans loaded to their roofs!
We drove east for the day through heavy rain and strong winds, reaching Saint Raphael by 19:30 and booked into a hotel for the night.
We drove east for the day through heavy rain and strong winds, reaching Saint Raphael by 19:30 and booked into a hotel for the night.
Day 34 Tuesday 20/10/09
Spent the day on the ferry crossing the Med to Sete in France. JC got new tyres for the bike and had treatment on his leg (from the burn) in Spain.
Day 33 Monday 19/10/09
A lazy day was spent around Al Hoceima before driving back to Nador to catch the 23:58 ferry to France. The port is out of the town and poorly signed. Upon arrival at the port we had two hours of chaos, not knowing where to go for passports to be stamped and vehicle import docs to be cancelled etc. Maybe it was our inability to speak French or Arabic, but we did not have a clue what was going on! Eventually we got the paperwork sorted, found the right ferry and got on board. Our cabin was a tiny hovel that was supposed to sleep four! Toilets and showers were shared and were not in the best of condition. The whole boat was old and pretty tatty!
Day 32 Sunday 18/10/09
We were up early and before 8am, we had walked up to the Grottes des Pigeons, a cave that has been excavated by Oxford University. We could only look into the entrance as the archaeological work appears to be ongoing.
Leaving this area we drove west, along the coast to Al Hoceima and the national park just outside the town. We spent the night in peaceful isolation in the national park, camping in the Land Rover for a second night. Well, almost peaceful isolation, apart from a scary 30 mins when an animal in pain could be heard but not seen howling very close to us – wild dog, leopard, wolf, fox, we did not know as we could not find the body in the morning.
Leaving this area we drove west, along the coast to Al Hoceima and the national park just outside the town. We spent the night in peaceful isolation in the national park, camping in the Land Rover for a second night. Well, almost peaceful isolation, apart from a scary 30 mins when an animal in pain could be heard but not seen howling very close to us – wild dog, leopard, wolf, fox, we did not know as we could not find the body in the morning.
Day 31 Saturday 17/10/09
We said our goodbyes to Fatima, Sara and the boys, and together with Aziz and Radwan we went to Taza. We picked up some supplies, were given a goody bag from Radwan, had a drink, then hit the road to Nador. Once in Nador, we booked the ferry to Sete in France (sailing Monday night), then headed to the mountains of Beni-Snassen.
These mountains are fairly close to Algeria and are part of a national park. We drove up the fertile Zegzel Gorge and looked at the entrance of Grottes de Chameau at dusk. Unfortunately, whilst this used to have been a show cave, the way on has been blocked after flood damage.
As it was getting dark, we found a suitable place to put the Land Rover, although spoilt by the litter everywhere, despite the national park status.
These mountains are fairly close to Algeria and are part of a national park. We drove up the fertile Zegzel Gorge and looked at the entrance of Grottes de Chameau at dusk. Unfortunately, whilst this used to have been a show cave, the way on has been blocked after flood damage.
As it was getting dark, we found a suitable place to put the Land Rover, although spoilt by the litter everywhere, despite the national park status.
Day 30 Friday 16/10/09
Whilst JC headed to Melilla to take a ferry to Spain, needing a head start to purchase new tyres, MC and EP spent the morning teaching Aziz and Radwan SRT basics. The Land Rover was later repacked for our departure and we went a short walk around Bab boudir.
Day 29 Thursday 15/10/09
Aziz took us to another area of unexplored shafts, and we left the vehicles at the village of Ain Bechar after another tea stop. We headed up the mountains of Igiwan Lkikab, joined by the “mountain goat”, Mustafa. Mustafa knows this area very well due to looking after the family sheep and led us to three shafts.
The hike up took some time, as there were no paths, we merely follow the tracks of sheep, over limestone pavements and upwards. The first shaft was fairly shallow and descended by JC on a lifeline, but was blocked with mud. The next area we went to had two shafts very close together, both of which were descended but with no way on.
As we finished our descent of the hillside, we had more tea and tried the local, delicious honey.
The hike up took some time, as there were no paths, we merely follow the tracks of sheep, over limestone pavements and upwards. The first shaft was fairly shallow and descended by JC on a lifeline, but was blocked with mud. The next area we went to had two shafts very close together, both of which were descended but with no way on.
As we finished our descent of the hillside, we had more tea and tried the local, delicious honey.
Day 28 Wednesday 14/10/09
So all the team could go underground together, rather than one or two shaft-bashing, we decided to spend the day at the well-known, Chaara Cave. The drive took longer than anticipated as the track was no longer used and after about 2 hours off-roading we reached our destination. This cave was explored and dived in the early ‘80’s by Cerberus members. We entered the main entrance down the mud slope and whilst JC and Radwan led, Aziz, MC and EP undertook some photography in the well-decorated river passage. Unfortunately, the cave carries a large stream in winter and together with the stream, all the local rubbish, resulting in the water being quite polluted. We soon reached the others who had turned back.
The locals on the surface were very friendly and knew of many other caves in the area – for a future trip.
The locals on the surface were very friendly and knew of many other caves in the area – for a future trip.
Day 26 Monday 12/10/09
Aziz had organised a trip into the nearby hills to show us some previously unexplored potholes. Sara (Aziz’s sister-in-law) joined us along with the family donkey to carry the caving kit (a good idea for Gaping Gill!). In the hills we were shown a small cave of about 30m in length that had seen plenty of local traffic.
We then met two shepherds who told us of some shafts that they had found and took us to see them. The first was rigged and descended by MC, which was a 40m blind shaft. It was blocked at the bottom with mud. It may well be a future digging project – but not for us!
The second shaft was smaller and due to drill battery failure and a shortage of natural re-belays it could not be bottomed. A disto measurement was taken and it was 33m deep and we believed it also to be blind.
The third shaft was a large open shaft that reminded us of Alum Pot in the Dales. MC again rigged and descended the shaft which was possible off two natural belays straight down to the bottom 40m away. This too was a blind shaft, full of mud at the bottom.
As we headed back off the hills, a slight panic ensued as we could not find where we had left the donkey .... it was eventually found much to our relief!
We then met two shepherds who told us of some shafts that they had found and took us to see them. The first was rigged and descended by MC, which was a 40m blind shaft. It was blocked at the bottom with mud. It may well be a future digging project – but not for us!
The second shaft was smaller and due to drill battery failure and a shortage of natural re-belays it could not be bottomed. A disto measurement was taken and it was 33m deep and we believed it also to be blind.
The third shaft was a large open shaft that reminded us of Alum Pot in the Dales. MC again rigged and descended the shaft which was possible off two natural belays straight down to the bottom 40m away. This too was a blind shaft, full of mud at the bottom.
As we headed back off the hills, a slight panic ensued as we could not find where we had left the donkey .... it was eventually found much to our relief!
Day 27 Tuesday 13/10/09
Today we were to search for more undescended shafts. A relative of Aziz, Karim, had found some entrances whilst looking for lost sheep. We collected Karim from his flock and put him in the back of the Land Rover with EP for an hour’s off-road track to an isolated valley, Zaarour Valley. Whilst driving the track JC managed to fall off his bike twice!
When in the valley and unpacking we realised that MC’s SRT kit was missing. It must have been lost on yesterday’s walk out. JC and Aziz went back on the bike to try and locate the missing kit, whilst MC went with Karim to locate and GPS the cave entrances. One was a simple 15m blind, open shaft whilst the other two had smaller entrances and stones seemed to rattle deeper down.
Using EP’s SRT kit and a 40m rope, MC rigged one of the entrances and started to descend. At 26m the bottom could not be seen but there was a rock bridge, so MC pendulumed across and placed a bolt on the bridge for a rebelay. The remainder of the rope was used as a traverse across the bridge to a side of the shaft away from rockfall from the surface. Two bolts were installed for the next pitch and MC then climbed back out for more rope and to recharge the drill battery.
Upon reaching the Land Rover, JC and Aziz were back with the missing SRT kit. After recharging the battery and collecting a 70m rope, MC and EP went to continue the shaft whilst JC went for a look in a cave at the valley bottom that the French had explored a few years before. MC went down to the rock bridge and continued deeper into the cave, placing two more rebelays before bottoming out at 88m. EP stayed on the rock bridge to photograph MC as he came back up.
When in the valley and unpacking we realised that MC’s SRT kit was missing. It must have been lost on yesterday’s walk out. JC and Aziz went back on the bike to try and locate the missing kit, whilst MC went with Karim to locate and GPS the cave entrances. One was a simple 15m blind, open shaft whilst the other two had smaller entrances and stones seemed to rattle deeper down.
Using EP’s SRT kit and a 40m rope, MC rigged one of the entrances and started to descend. At 26m the bottom could not be seen but there was a rock bridge, so MC pendulumed across and placed a bolt on the bridge for a rebelay. The remainder of the rope was used as a traverse across the bridge to a side of the shaft away from rockfall from the surface. Two bolts were installed for the next pitch and MC then climbed back out for more rope and to recharge the drill battery.
Upon reaching the Land Rover, JC and Aziz were back with the missing SRT kit. After recharging the battery and collecting a 70m rope, MC and EP went to continue the shaft whilst JC went for a look in a cave at the valley bottom that the French had explored a few years before. MC went down to the rock bridge and continued deeper into the cave, placing two more rebelays before bottoming out at 88m. EP stayed on the rock bridge to photograph MC as he came back up.
Day 25 Sunday 11/10/09
At breakfast, we were joined by a Berber shepherd who kept repeating one word and pointing at his gullet. We did not understand what he was saying and tried guessing by offering food and water. This was obviously wrong and he kept saying this word. He did not look too impressed at our camping spot, so we made a quick exit.....
We drove down the road a short distance before stopping for a 3 hour walk on the hillside looking for caves. On returning to the vehicles we continued down the road to Bab Boudir and Aziz’s house, where we were invited in for lunch and cups of tea. One of Aziz’s friends was there (Radwan) who lives in Taza. After lunch we headed into Taza and Radwan came with us as our guide to the souk and town.
Back at Aziz’s house we introduced his children to “Pass the pigs” which was an instant hit and we all got a much needed wash!
We drove down the road a short distance before stopping for a 3 hour walk on the hillside looking for caves. On returning to the vehicles we continued down the road to Bab Boudir and Aziz’s house, where we were invited in for lunch and cups of tea. One of Aziz’s friends was there (Radwan) who lives in Taza. After lunch we headed into Taza and Radwan came with us as our guide to the souk and town.
Back at Aziz’s house we introduced his children to “Pass the pigs” which was an instant hit and we all got a much needed wash!
Day 24 Saturday 10/10/09
After seeing one of our neighbours pass us with their flock and violin, playing as he walked, the search for fuel continued....JC used his jerry can of petrol to extend the range of the bike and we set off, guessing which way to turn at junctions. We came to a village that was of reasonable size (with no fuel station). Asking around, we discovered we could buy diesel and were shown to a shop where a man sold fuel from barrels. We bought 20 litres of overpriced diesel to keep the Land Rover going (we still had a couple of gallons in the reserve tank, just in case). Setting off, the Land Rover started emitting clouds of blue smoke for the first time and we suspected it was due to the poor quality fuel. Luckily a few kms further on we came across a fuel station and road signs!
After filling up both Land Rover (plus reserve tank) and bike (plus a jerry can) we headed for the town of Sefrou. We were finally on maps that we had! An hour was spent walking round the Medina and having a coffee at a cafe before setting off to find a road back towards Taza.
Late in the afternoon we stopped 25km outside Bab Boudir to look at a depression next to the road. We met a local shepherd who told us to camp here on a grassy patch below the road. He also told us of a large cave one hour’s walk up the mountain. We set up camp and started to cook tea in the dark when along came the shepherd and his two sons to see the strange English cavers. They were none too impressed with Earl Grey tea and decided instead to practice their pyromania on some nearby bushes. Given all the signs warning about not having fires, we were even more surprised when other locals started doing the same!
After filling up both Land Rover (plus reserve tank) and bike (plus a jerry can) we headed for the town of Sefrou. We were finally on maps that we had! An hour was spent walking round the Medina and having a coffee at a cafe before setting off to find a road back towards Taza.
Late in the afternoon we stopped 25km outside Bab Boudir to look at a depression next to the road. We met a local shepherd who told us to camp here on a grassy patch below the road. He also told us of a large cave one hour’s walk up the mountain. We set up camp and started to cook tea in the dark when along came the shepherd and his two sons to see the strange English cavers. They were none too impressed with Earl Grey tea and decided instead to practice their pyromania on some nearby bushes. Given all the signs warning about not having fires, we were even more surprised when other locals started doing the same!
Day 23 Friday 09/10/09
It was decided that we would visit a show cave, Gouffre Friouato that was 6km away and Aziz came along to show us other caves in the area, including the entrance of Chiker Cave.
After the show cave we drove south to find an area of new cave potential as described by the Casablancan cavers. Having driven for some time we realised that we could not relate our location to the sketch map that we had. We were now on no map that we had and there were no road signs either. Both vehicles were getting low on fuel but JC still had a jerry can of petrol in the Land Rover. We carried on driving, hoping to find a village with fuel. We got to a village we were told had fuel, but it only had about four houses!
Driving on, we came across some men working on a new road and asked for directions. They said that in 60km there was a town with fuel. It was getting late and we pressed on. Driving through the mountains we found a remote and peaceful valley with grass, opposite some shepherds and set up camp.
After the show cave we drove south to find an area of new cave potential as described by the Casablancan cavers. Having driven for some time we realised that we could not relate our location to the sketch map that we had. We were now on no map that we had and there were no road signs either. Both vehicles were getting low on fuel but JC still had a jerry can of petrol in the Land Rover. We carried on driving, hoping to find a village with fuel. We got to a village we were told had fuel, but it only had about four houses!
Driving on, we came across some men working on a new road and asked for directions. They said that in 60km there was a town with fuel. It was getting late and we pressed on. Driving through the mountains we found a remote and peaceful valley with grass, opposite some shepherds and set up camp.
Day 22 Thursday 08/10/09
The plan was to drive to the next caving area, near Taza in the north east. We broke camp early and set off at 8am. It was a 10 hour drive and we arrived at Bab Boudir in the dark. With no sign of a campsite as described in the Lonely Planet guide, we saw a light at a small shop and stopped to ask for directions.
Speaking good English, Aziz told us we could camp on the “village green” and we were invited for a meal and tea. Once the tents were up we headed over to the shop which was promptly closed and we all headed up to Aziz’s house
Speaking good English, Aziz told us we could camp on the “village green” and we were invited for a meal and tea. Once the tents were up we headed over to the shop which was promptly closed and we all headed up to Aziz’s house
Day 21 Wednesday 07/10/09
The day was to be spent at the same campsite to catch up on clothes washing. We drove to Outesite for some internet access and buy some fresh food. It turned out to be market day and the small town was very busy. EP and MC spent an hour on dial-up internet access whilst JC went for a wander.
After buying some fruit, veg, eggs and bread we drove back to camp. It was very hot and the clothes dried well.
After buying some fruit, veg, eggs and bread we drove back to camp. It was very hot and the clothes dried well.
Day 20 Tuesday 06/10/09
We packed up camp and were walking back by 8am. Arriving back at the shepherd’s hut and our vehicles we packed our kit and headed down on the off-road track. Abdellah sent JC down different route that turned out to be down a steep, narrow river bed and resulted in a burn on JC’s leg.
On reaching Tarmac, we headed north to Azilal and on to Ben El Oudaine where we found a campsite.
On reaching Tarmac, we headed north to Azilal and on to Ben El Oudaine where we found a campsite.
Day 18 Sunday 04/10/09
We left Tabant at 10am after Abdellah finished shopping for provisions. We drove down the valley before having a 10 mile off-road track to a shepherd hut, high in the mountains. The Land Rover spent all of the time in low ratio 2nd gear with the occasional bit of diff-lock. JC managed to get the bike plus Abdellah up the track. At the hut we met the two Mohammeds and their mules. The walk was supposed to be 3 hours until at the hut it was now a 5 hour walk! The camping and caving gear was loaded onto the mules and we all set off for a 4.5 hour walk to our camp at 10,000 feet in the High Atlas, arriving at camp at 6pm.
Moroccans do not name their mules, but EP decided that ours were Muffin and Eyore much to the amusement of their owners! Upon arriving at the camp we were told that a French expedition had been there 15 years ago.
Moroccans do not name their mules, but EP decided that ours were Muffin and Eyore much to the amusement of their owners! Upon arriving at the camp we were told that a French expedition had been there 15 years ago.
Day 19 Monday 05/10/09
After breakfast we climbed into caving gear to investigate a couple of holes that the Moroccans had seen. At one of the holes a large red “52” was painted on the rock. Not a good sign for virgin cave! At another hole near-by, Mohammed Eyore had dropped his coat so we decided to investigate this shaft and retrieve his coat. JC and the Moroccans free climbed down into the depression and looked down the shaft. It was decided to drop a rope from the top, down into the depression and continue down the shaft.MC and EP rigged a rope round a large boulder and hung the rope down. MC descended to the end of the rope and ended up on a small ledge with the pitch continuing. It was whilst looking for a suitable bolt position did he notice a rusty spit. We had been beaten by the French again! After ascending the rope a faded red painted “A53” was spotted.
We decided that all the shafts would have been investigated by the previous expedition, but JC spotted a small slot that felt that it was drafting. Having crawled in it was going, dropping through large breakdown to a small pitch. MC and EP then went in with a rope to rig the pitch. MC rigged the rope and descended 4m to a rebelay and down another 2m. The passage sloped down and soon ended. We estimated the length of the cave to be 50m in total but it looked virgin cave!
We decided that all the shafts would have been investigated by the previous expedition, but JC spotted a small slot that felt that it was drafting. Having crawled in it was going, dropping through large breakdown to a small pitch. MC and EP then went in with a rope to rig the pitch. MC rigged the rope and descended 4m to a rebelay and down another 2m. The passage sloped down and soon ended. We estimated the length of the cave to be 50m in total but it looked virgin cave!
Day 17 Saturday 03/10/09
We were told of cave near a village up the valley called Tawaya. It was said that no foreign cavers had been down this cave and there was a pitch to a river. It was possible to drive, off road to within a 15 minute walk of the cave entrance.
We drove with Abdellah on the back of JC’s bike and parked in a dry river bed, 2 minutes from the cave. Unfortunately the recent bad weather had completely filled the cave entrance with stones. So Abdellah, JC and a local went up the hillside to look at other entrances that the local knew of. When they came back down JC had two small entrances to look in, so we packed up some lightweight caving kit, survey kit and some photography gear and headed up the hillside in the midday heat!
We picked our way up the steep hillside to a cave entrance. JC crawled in first followed by MC and EP. After a short crawl we entered a chamber which continued in a small tube. JC stopped in another small chamber and you could hear water dripping and echoing. MC pushed on, only to be confronted by a sump in the bottom of the chamber. The cave was surveyed out (approx. 90m).
Another smaller cave entrance, lower down the hillside, had been seen by JC, so we headed for this. JC squeezed in but it ended at approx 5m.
On the way back to Tabant, JC got the first puncture of the trip. This was soon mended in the village at the local tyre repair shop at a cost of £2.00. We all headed back to Abdellah’s gite, joined by Tanya and Abdellah. There was talk of a long, horizontal cave in the High Atlas mountains. It would be a one day walk-in with mules. We decided to spend the next three days exploring this area.
We drove with Abdellah on the back of JC’s bike and parked in a dry river bed, 2 minutes from the cave. Unfortunately the recent bad weather had completely filled the cave entrance with stones. So Abdellah, JC and a local went up the hillside to look at other entrances that the local knew of. When they came back down JC had two small entrances to look in, so we packed up some lightweight caving kit, survey kit and some photography gear and headed up the hillside in the midday heat!
We picked our way up the steep hillside to a cave entrance. JC crawled in first followed by MC and EP. After a short crawl we entered a chamber which continued in a small tube. JC stopped in another small chamber and you could hear water dripping and echoing. MC pushed on, only to be confronted by a sump in the bottom of the chamber. The cave was surveyed out (approx. 90m).
Another smaller cave entrance, lower down the hillside, had been seen by JC, so we headed for this. JC squeezed in but it ended at approx 5m.
On the way back to Tabant, JC got the first puncture of the trip. This was soon mended in the village at the local tyre repair shop at a cost of £2.00. We all headed back to Abdellah’s gite, joined by Tanya and Abdellah. There was talk of a long, horizontal cave in the High Atlas mountains. It would be a one day walk-in with mules. We decided to spend the next three days exploring this area.
Day 16 Friday 02/10/09
We drove round to Tabant, passing many mountain bikers on the rough roads. One cyclist hitching a ride up a steep hill by holding onto the Land Rover roof rack to catch up effortlessly with his mates. JC gave a few locals lifts on the back of his bike along the route. Our tourist map showed a symbol of a cave at Tabant but when we got there it was a busy village with no sign of caves.
We decided to head on but as we drove out of the village we were flagged down by a car and inside were Tanya (British) and Adbellah Bouhrazen (her husband) and Abdellah (his cousin). They had noticed the British number plates on the vehicles in the village and because very few British people travel to this valley, Tanya wanted to know what we were doing. We explained that we were looking for caves and Abdellah, who is a mountain guide in Morocco explained that he knew of some and would we like to go for tea and a chat. Here the day changed for the better and in a way that none of us would have guessed.
We called in a cafe for tea and then went with them to Abdellah’s grandma’s house for a traditional lunch. We arranged to stop at the other Abdellah’s gite (mountain guide also) in the next village and go to find caves the next day.
We decided to head on but as we drove out of the village we were flagged down by a car and inside were Tanya (British) and Adbellah Bouhrazen (her husband) and Abdellah (his cousin). They had noticed the British number plates on the vehicles in the village and because very few British people travel to this valley, Tanya wanted to know what we were doing. We explained that we were looking for caves and Abdellah, who is a mountain guide in Morocco explained that he knew of some and would we like to go for tea and a chat. Here the day changed for the better and in a way that none of us would have guessed.
We called in a cafe for tea and then went with them to Abdellah’s grandma’s house for a traditional lunch. We arranged to stop at the other Abdellah’s gite (mountain guide also) in the next village and go to find caves the next day.
Day 15 Thursday 01/10/09
Spent the day with our guide Mohammed and did a traverse of the mountain behind the gite. Walked for 7 hours looking for caves but found only rock shelters. Near the end of the walk we found some short caves that were extended by man, one with a water supply at the end which was piped away. We stayed another night at the gite before heading further round the trail.
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