The bus got into Istanbul by 7:00am and we caught a taxi to the airport. We then had a 14 hour wait for our plane to Lebanon. It was a long boring wait and the only excitment was when we weighed our luggage and were 20kg overweight! We spent some time repacking the hold luggage and secreting things into coat pockets and wearing more clothes.
We got through with no excess baggage charges and had a short flight to Beirut. We landed at 11:45pm to rain. After being picked up by JC and the hotel owner, we headed out for a beer and got to bed at 2:00am.
Wednesday 30 December 2009
Day 103 Monday 28/12/09
After a lazy start we started packing for our trip to Lebanon. This meant emptying the Land Rover and sorting what kit we could take on the plane. We then had fun fitting the Land Rover into their garage. By removing the rear spare tyre and the front bumper touching the far wall, the Land Rover fitted with 1cm to spare!
In the evening we headed to the bus station in town and caught the bus to Istanbul (10 hours ride). The bus jouney was better than we thought it would be and the time passed relatively quickly.
In the evening we headed to the bus station in town and caught the bus to Istanbul (10 hours ride). The bus jouney was better than we thought it would be and the time passed relatively quickly.
Day 102 Sunday 27/12/09
The crossing into Bulgaria was easy as we were heading back into the EU. The road signs were a little confusing as the Bulgarians use their own alphabet.
It was cold and wet but we made it to Veliko Turnovo by evening. We met Fiona Thorpe and had a relaxing evening indoors admiring their building restorations (and consuming a bottle of Bulgarian wine).
It was cold and wet but we made it to Veliko Turnovo by evening. We met Fiona Thorpe and had a relaxing evening indoors admiring their building restorations (and consuming a bottle of Bulgarian wine).
Monday 28 December 2009
Day 101 Saturday 26/12/09
Another day of driving was on the cards and we set off early calling in on a McDonalds for breakfast. We were pleasantly surprised on the quality of the roads as we crossed Turkey. It made the driving a lot easier than we had dared to hope. By evening we were passed Istanbul and close to the Bulgarian border. We stopped at a motorway rest area to cook a meal and spend the night before crossing into Bulgaria the next day.
Day 100 Friday 25/12/09
We left Oludeniz and started our drive north to Istanbul and the Bulgarian border. We called off at the World Heritage site at Pamukkale to visit the travertines with their thermal waters. This site is an amazing area of a hillside that is covered in calcite that looks like ice. At the top is the site of an ancient ruined city and gour pools filled with turquoise thermal water which you can walk (barefoot) in – if you pay the 20 TL each to enter the site.
We continued the drive north on good roads and reached the town of Afyon by evening. We camped at another service station with trucks as neighbours again.
We continued the drive north on good roads and reached the town of Afyon by evening. We camped at another service station with trucks as neighbours again.
Day 99 Thursday 24/12/09
Continuing our drive along the Med coast of Turkey we had a brief stop in Kas for breakfast and Wifi before driving to Oludeniz and to the apartment owned by EP’s parents to get some washing done and spend the night.
Day 98 Wednesday 23/12/09
We awoke to a cold morning and the first with ice on the inside of the Land Rover. The landscape was bleak and foggy. We drove into the town and to the World Heritage site of the underground city. After paying our 15 TL each we went down into this amazing place where up to 30,000 people once lived.
Our next stop was the town of Goreme and the “fairy houses” which are carved into the conical hills.
We then had a long drive west, heading for Oludeniz. We made it to Kemer where we again filled up with Diesel and camped at the filling station.
Our next stop was the town of Goreme and the “fairy houses” which are carved into the conical hills.
We then had a long drive west, heading for Oludeniz. We made it to Kemer where we again filled up with Diesel and camped at the filling station.
Day 97 Tuesday 22/12/09
We woke for our planned early start only to find the same back tyre on the Land Rover flat. After pumping some more air into it we headed back into Latakia to find a repair shop and wait for it to open. By 9:30 the tyre was repaired and we were heading for Turkey. The border was only 50km north and we were soon there.
After 2 hours we were in Turkey having spent £30.00 on two visas and 5 TL on something for the car (road tax?). Rather than blast across Turkey to Bulgaria, we decided to see a little of the country. First stop was Derinkuyu in the Cappadocia Mountains. Arriving in the dark we filled up with fuel (185 TL about £80!!!!!) and asked if we could park up for the night there. We got the permission and set up camp for the night.
After 2 hours we were in Turkey having spent £30.00 on two visas and 5 TL on something for the car (road tax?). Rather than blast across Turkey to Bulgaria, we decided to see a little of the country. First stop was Derinkuyu in the Cappadocia Mountains. Arriving in the dark we filled up with fuel (185 TL about £80!!!!!) and asked if we could park up for the night there. We got the permission and set up camp for the night.
Day 96 Monday 21/12/09
EP and MC set off north, heading for Turkey whilst JC and VI were to have a day in the souks of Damascus.
Heading north we deviated off the motorway near Hama to find the fort of Qalaat Shmaimis. This 13th century ruin sits on top of a volcano in the middle of the flat plain east of Hama. Having climbed up to the fort and the small cave that sits beneath it, we got back to the Land Rover to find a couple of locals on their motorbikes. We showed them a picture of a cave and asked if they knew of any more in the area. With help from one of our Lebanese telephone interpreters one of them said yes and he would show us. He was one of the Bedouin who camp around the base of the fort, tending their sheep.
The cave was in the moat of the fort and was a small cave of two chambers. One chamber ended in infill which looked to emerge on the hillside not too far away. Back at the car we were invited back to his camp for tea and giving him a lift back, we headed off to camp. Here we met more Bedouin and enjoyed some cups of tea with them before a quick photo session and heading off back to Hama (after declining the offer of camping there for the night).
We drove into Hama to see the massive wooden waterwheels and grab a quick falafel sandwich before continuing north. We drove up to Latakia on the northern coast, ready for a crossing into Turkey the next day. We arrived late and found a layby with a truck parked for the night. We decided to stop behind the truck and car camp there. We went over to say hello to our new neighbor and had some coffee and a chat with him albeit in different languages! We went to bed in a massive storm with heavy rain, thunder and lightning.
Heading north we deviated off the motorway near Hama to find the fort of Qalaat Shmaimis. This 13th century ruin sits on top of a volcano in the middle of the flat plain east of Hama. Having climbed up to the fort and the small cave that sits beneath it, we got back to the Land Rover to find a couple of locals on their motorbikes. We showed them a picture of a cave and asked if they knew of any more in the area. With help from one of our Lebanese telephone interpreters one of them said yes and he would show us. He was one of the Bedouin who camp around the base of the fort, tending their sheep.
The cave was in the moat of the fort and was a small cave of two chambers. One chamber ended in infill which looked to emerge on the hillside not too far away. Back at the car we were invited back to his camp for tea and giving him a lift back, we headed off to camp. Here we met more Bedouin and enjoyed some cups of tea with them before a quick photo session and heading off back to Hama (after declining the offer of camping there for the night).
We drove into Hama to see the massive wooden waterwheels and grab a quick falafel sandwich before continuing north. We drove up to Latakia on the northern coast, ready for a crossing into Turkey the next day. We arrived late and found a layby with a truck parked for the night. We decided to stop behind the truck and car camp there. We went over to say hello to our new neighbor and had some coffee and a chat with him albeit in different languages! We went to bed in a massive storm with heavy rain, thunder and lightning.
Thursday 24 December 2009
Day 95 Sunday 20/12/09
JC and VI were to arrive in Damascus today, so whilst waiting for them EP and MC headed back to the old town for some Kilim shopping. We got lost wandering around the souks that seemed to go on forever! There are souks for everything! We wandered through the plumbing and hardware section, various clothing souks, the coffee souk and plenty of others. We made our way back to the main souk and visited many carpet shops to find a small memento of our time in the Middle East.
All the traders were very helpful and not at all pushy with no high pressure selling. We eventually settled on our purchase and headed back towards the hotel, meeting JC and VI on the way.
All the traders were very helpful and not at all pushy with no high pressure selling. We eventually settled on our purchase and headed back towards the hotel, meeting JC and VI on the way.
Sunday 20 December 2009
Day 94 Saturday 19/21/09
The Land Rover was in need of a service and the Syrian Land Rover agent would not touch it (Diesel and too old!). The hotel reception told us of an area near with lots of mechanics and so armed with a map we prepared to set off. Whilst waiting in the Land Rover for EP to emerge from the hotel, MC met another “overlander”. Brian, from South Africa and his wife Diana were driving “Cape to Cape”, from South Africa to Norway in a new Defender 110. They were looking for a hotel and had just been into the Sultan to enquire (where EP met them too). After a short chat we said our goodbyes and headed off to “mechanic land”.
We found the road with plenty of tyre repair shops and stopped at one for our puncture repair. As soon as the wheel was off we had gathered a crowd of onlookers including the occupants of an old Land Rover. MC went over to ask if they knew a mechanic who could service our vehicle. A discussion between them took place and one lad set off on his bike. He came back soon and took MC over the road to a small garage and told me that they would do the work for us.
After having the puncture repaired and the rest of the tyres checked (S£50 – about 75p), we drove round to the garage. With very little common language we got the engine oil, axle oils and coolant changed, the UJ greased together with the oil and air filter fitted that we gave them and the bill was S£2,800 – about £42.00. We again gathered quite a crowd with everyone very friendly and helpful.
After parking up the Land Rover we set off back into the souks for a haircut for EP, but let’s not go there!
In the evening we met up with Brian and Diana for a meal and a chat.
We found the road with plenty of tyre repair shops and stopped at one for our puncture repair. As soon as the wheel was off we had gathered a crowd of onlookers including the occupants of an old Land Rover. MC went over to ask if they knew a mechanic who could service our vehicle. A discussion between them took place and one lad set off on his bike. He came back soon and took MC over the road to a small garage and told me that they would do the work for us.
After having the puncture repaired and the rest of the tyres checked (S£50 – about 75p), we drove round to the garage. With very little common language we got the engine oil, axle oils and coolant changed, the UJ greased together with the oil and air filter fitted that we gave them and the bill was S£2,800 – about £42.00. We again gathered quite a crowd with everyone very friendly and helpful.
After parking up the Land Rover we set off back into the souks for a haircut for EP, but let’s not go there!
In the evening we met up with Brian and Diana for a meal and a chat.
Day 93 Friday 18/12/09
Waking up in a hotel in Damascus the situation had sunk in and the morning was spent on the phone and planning a revised trip. The plan evolved to continue the drive round the Med to Bulgaria where we could leave the Land Rover with the Thorpes (Ex Dragon Caving Gear). After catching a train to Istanbul we would fly into Beirut for a shorter time. After a few phone calls to Dial-a-flight in England we had two return flights from Istanbul to Beirut.
We also found that the Land Rover had a flat tyre after picking up a nail somewhere. Whilst pumping it back up to see if it would drive to a repair place (and save us swapping a tyre) a helpful local Land Rover owner came over for a chat (with good English) and proceeded to pump the tyre up for us!
With no more planning to do at present, we walked into the old town to look round the souks. In the evening we had another visit to the Wifi hotel to catch up on emails.
We also found that the Land Rover had a flat tyre after picking up a nail somewhere. Whilst pumping it back up to see if it would drive to a repair place (and save us swapping a tyre) a helpful local Land Rover owner came over for a chat (with good English) and proceeded to pump the tyre up for us!
With no more planning to do at present, we walked into the old town to look round the souks. In the evening we had another visit to the Wifi hotel to catch up on emails.
Friday 18 December 2009
Day 92 Thursday 17/12/09
If only we knew how the day would pan out!
The Jordanian border crossing was a bit more problematic than our entry but the Syrian one was far easier than anticipated, although we were stung $100 for a “diesel tax”. Syria was cold and bleak, as we headed north to Damascus, chatting about meeting up with Speleo Club du Liban that evening.
After getting lost around Damascus, we were assisted by a friendly taxi driver who told us to follow him and then gave us directions. We found the right road and headed on to the Syrian border. Negotiating the flooded border post, we eventually, after much confusion and lack of information, past the border and drove the several miles to the Lebanese border. Whilst queuing for the border, a money-exchanger asked us if our car was diesel, and then told us that we would not be able to enter. A few minutes later, another money-exchanger told us the same. Why wouldn’t a diesel car be allowed?
Emma decided to walk up and check with the customs/army about bringing a diesel car in, only to be told that they were banned. Why? The answer was simply because they are illegal. We turned our car around and headed to back to Syria, our heads spinning. We stopped at the border and had to pay another $100 diesel tax as we had left the country, just to rub salt in the wound. Emma asked about where we could park the car long term in Damascus so we could then take the coach to Beirut – the answer was, we couldn’t, as the car was in Emma’s passport and she could not leave the country without the passport.
There was nothing we could do – all our planning, our dream of spending two months exploring, caving and skiing and time with our friends in our “second home” was destroyed – we were devastated.
The Jordanian border crossing was a bit more problematic than our entry but the Syrian one was far easier than anticipated, although we were stung $100 for a “diesel tax”. Syria was cold and bleak, as we headed north to Damascus, chatting about meeting up with Speleo Club du Liban that evening.
After getting lost around Damascus, we were assisted by a friendly taxi driver who told us to follow him and then gave us directions. We found the right road and headed on to the Syrian border. Negotiating the flooded border post, we eventually, after much confusion and lack of information, past the border and drove the several miles to the Lebanese border. Whilst queuing for the border, a money-exchanger asked us if our car was diesel, and then told us that we would not be able to enter. A few minutes later, another money-exchanger told us the same. Why wouldn’t a diesel car be allowed?
Emma decided to walk up and check with the customs/army about bringing a diesel car in, only to be told that they were banned. Why? The answer was simply because they are illegal. We turned our car around and headed to back to Syria, our heads spinning. We stopped at the border and had to pay another $100 diesel tax as we had left the country, just to rub salt in the wound. Emma asked about where we could park the car long term in Damascus so we could then take the coach to Beirut – the answer was, we couldn’t, as the car was in Emma’s passport and she could not leave the country without the passport.
There was nothing we could do – all our planning, our dream of spending two months exploring, caving and skiing and time with our friends in our “second home” was destroyed – we were devastated.
Day 91 Wednesday 16/12/09
We planned to travel to the Syrian border today and prepared to cross early the next day. We had a lazy morning in the sun and had a walk under some nearby cliff and the surrounding area for a bit of cave hunting. One of the books by Tony Howard and Di Taylor makes reference to there being caves in the area – we could not locate anything but rock shelters.
It was only 50 miles to the border and we parked up on some waste ground near the border along with trucks to wait for morning.
It was only 50 miles to the border and we parked up on some waste ground near the border along with trucks to wait for morning.
Day 90 Tuesday 15/12/09
Woke up to a cold, bleak morning and drove to the other wildlife sanctuary in Azraq. The sanctuary is a marsh-land environment with reed beds. When we got there we were told that most of the reeds had been burnt down! We walked across the desolation to the hide and saw Coots and House Sparrows!
Giving up on Azraq, we decided to drive west to Jerash. We parked in this busy town and had a walk to buy some provisions. Walking along we were constantly greeted with “Hello” and “Welcome”. It seemed a very friendly place. We had a coffee at a street stall and had a crowd gather to talk to us.
Leaving Jerash we headed to the Dibbin National Park,rolling limestone and sandstone hills with a forest overlooking Jerash and found a camp spot for the night.
Giving up on Azraq, we decided to drive west to Jerash. We parked in this busy town and had a walk to buy some provisions. Walking along we were constantly greeted with “Hello” and “Welcome”. It seemed a very friendly place. We had a coffee at a street stall and had a crowd gather to talk to us.
Leaving Jerash we headed to the Dibbin National Park,rolling limestone and sandstone hills with a forest overlooking Jerash and found a camp spot for the night.
Day 89 Monday 14/12/09
After a quick visit under the thundery-looking clouds to Mount Nebo (just because we have never been there), we headed to Wadi Seer to look for some caves mentioned in the guide books. We found the “caves” – which were no more than carved-out rock shelters at the village of Iraq Al-Amir.
We then headed back towards Amman and further east to Al Azraq. This was an area of Jordan, near the borders of Saudi and Iraq, which we had not visited before. Arriving in the dark we went to the Shaumari Wildlife Reserve, where camping is permitted, only to find it closed for development. So heading back into Azraq we found a cheap hotel (15 JD) in this wild-west like town and went out to find some food. The town appears to be one main street that has a constant flow of HGV’s from Saudi passing through.
We then headed back towards Amman and further east to Al Azraq. This was an area of Jordan, near the borders of Saudi and Iraq, which we had not visited before. Arriving in the dark we went to the Shaumari Wildlife Reserve, where camping is permitted, only to find it closed for development. So heading back into Azraq we found a cheap hotel (15 JD) in this wild-west like town and went out to find some food. The town appears to be one main street that has a constant flow of HGV’s from Saudi passing through.
Thursday 17 December 2009
Day 88 Sunday 13/12/09
After some photography, we set off up the Desert Highway to go to Feinan to explore the copper mines. Unfortunately, due to the Arabic only road signs on a certain stretch of road we had driven miles past and so continued to north to Lot’s Cave. Whilst the site was officially closed for restoration and the building of a new museum, we were guided up the partly renewed steps to the shallow rock shelter before heading to the Dead Sea.
The Dead Sea has a number of spectacular gorges that converge into it but once again, we noticed significant changes due to tourism development. The once free hot springs now looks commercialized and other gorges now house dams. As we drove further, the number of hotels and construction sites was unbelievable as Jordan now seeks to market internal tourism with “Amman Beach” and there were far fewer checkpoints than previously.
It took us a while to find our usual car camp, high up in the mountains overlooking the West Bank, still as beautiful as ever. This time, we were not disturbed by Israel and the West Bank fighting.
The Dead Sea has a number of spectacular gorges that converge into it but once again, we noticed significant changes due to tourism development. The once free hot springs now looks commercialized and other gorges now house dams. As we drove further, the number of hotels and construction sites was unbelievable as Jordan now seeks to market internal tourism with “Amman Beach” and there were far fewer checkpoints than previously.
It took us a while to find our usual car camp, high up in the mountains overlooking the West Bank, still as beautiful as ever. This time, we were not disturbed by Israel and the West Bank fighting.
Day 87 Saturday 12/12/09
As we left the camp, we spotted one of our neighbours (Ali), waving his arms as he was stranded in the desert – his Toyota’s battery was flat. Another jump start later and we were all heading back to Rum village.
As EP had hurt her back from loading the Land Rover after the previous night’s car camp, we chose an easy scramble but one that we had not done before. Once back, we camped at the Resthouse and had a shower.
As EP had hurt her back from loading the Land Rover after the previous night’s car camp, we chose an easy scramble but one that we had not done before. Once back, we camped at the Resthouse and had a shower.
Day 86 Friday 11/12/09
MC & EP spent the day navigating and driving in the desert – something we have not had the opportunity to do before in Wadi Rum. Great fun, apart from when Mike decided to follow a track up a dune! We discovered parts of the desert that we had not seen before and recognized other parts from previous trips.
We camped in the same spot as the previous night but this time had neighbours and rain!
We camped in the same spot as the previous night but this time had neighbours and rain!
Day 85 Thursday 10/12/09
JC headed up to the Dead Sea area whilst EP and MC made for Wadi Rum. You are permitted to drive your own 4x4 in Wadi Rum now (not that we saw anyone other than Bedouins driving), for 10JD per day, so we made use of the opportunity and paid for two days of desert driving and wild camping.
We drove through Rum village, past Khalizi? Canyon and on, trying out the sand driving, which we quickly got used to. One of the conditions of staying in the desert is that you must use a campsite and so we found a little cave, next to a camp. We had a short walk, taking photos before the night quickly drew in.
We drove through Rum village, past Khalizi? Canyon and on, trying out the sand driving, which we quickly got used to. One of the conditions of staying in the desert is that you must use a campsite and so we found a little cave, next to a camp. We had a short walk, taking photos before the night quickly drew in.
Wednesday 9 December 2009
Day 84 Wednesday 09/12/09
Diving today. We visited the “Japanese Garden” and the “Rainbow Reef “on two dives. There were plenty of fish to see but also it was noticeable how much more rubbish was seen as compared to previous years. Aqaba’s popularity as a dive venue will undoubtedly damage the reef and marine life.
Day 83 Tuesday 08/12/09
MC and EP drove south out of Aqaba to suss out the accommodation and diving options. JC left Wadi Rum and headed for Aqaba.
We drove to the International Arab Divers Village that opened in 2009 and were greeted by friendly staff and shown the new looking rooms. We decided to stop there and planned to dive with them the following day. We rang JC, told him to meet us there and waited.
Once all booked in and bags in the rooms, we headed back to Aqaba for a look at the town and to see what had changed since our last visit 4 years ago. In the evening MC and EP went to one of our favorite eating places in town, the Royal Yacht Club. JC stayed and ate at the dive centre.
We drove to the International Arab Divers Village that opened in 2009 and were greeted by friendly staff and shown the new looking rooms. We decided to stop there and planned to dive with them the following day. We rang JC, told him to meet us there and waited.
Once all booked in and bags in the rooms, we headed back to Aqaba for a look at the town and to see what had changed since our last visit 4 years ago. In the evening MC and EP went to one of our favorite eating places in town, the Royal Yacht Club. JC stayed and ate at the dive centre.
Tuesday 8 December 2009
Day 82 Monday 07/12/09
Today was the day to do battle with Egyptian customs again and cross over to Jordan with the Land Rover. We left Dahab early for the short drive north to Nuweiba and the ferry port. We arrived at the port just before 10am and bought our tickets to Jordan ($380.00).
We drove into the port and MC went off to try to complete the customs paperwork for the vehicle and us two. It was absolute chaos, busy and all signage in Arabic only! We were booked on the 11:30am “fast” ferry and for over 30 minutes MC wandered around without a clue what to do! You would queue at one window with other people clutching their carnets only to be sent to another window.
Finally a Tourist policeman said that if I had E£30, another policeman would assist me. This finally meant that at least now someone knew where to go and who to slip the E£5 bungs to. We went from office to office all over the port with MC shelling out pound notes to one and all. We eventually cleared customs at about midday. We could see the ferry still at the dock side, so charged down to it, hoping still to make the 11:30am sailing.
At the dock we were told to wait by another policeman and parked next to a colourful, old Renault 4. This was driven by two Frenchmen who were doing a similar route to us around the Med albeit in less time (2 months). At 12:30pm we all saw the ferry leave with no-one on it! The officials told us that it was not taking passengers and that there would be another ferry at 2pm.
At 3pm a ferry arrived and unloaded its passengers. We got onto the boat at 4pm and it set sail at around 5:30pm. We docked in Aqaba at 7:30pm.
Clearing Jordanian customs was a breeze compared to Egypt and we were out of the port by 8:30pm. We were both tired and hungry, so drove to a hotel in the town we had used before. The Moon Village hotel is a bit tatty and cost 30JD for the night, but it had parking outside for the Land Rover and we could walk into town for a meal at the Chinese restaurant and get a well earned beer!
We drove into the port and MC went off to try to complete the customs paperwork for the vehicle and us two. It was absolute chaos, busy and all signage in Arabic only! We were booked on the 11:30am “fast” ferry and for over 30 minutes MC wandered around without a clue what to do! You would queue at one window with other people clutching their carnets only to be sent to another window.
Finally a Tourist policeman said that if I had E£30, another policeman would assist me. This finally meant that at least now someone knew where to go and who to slip the E£5 bungs to. We went from office to office all over the port with MC shelling out pound notes to one and all. We eventually cleared customs at about midday. We could see the ferry still at the dock side, so charged down to it, hoping still to make the 11:30am sailing.
At the dock we were told to wait by another policeman and parked next to a colourful, old Renault 4. This was driven by two Frenchmen who were doing a similar route to us around the Med albeit in less time (2 months). At 12:30pm we all saw the ferry leave with no-one on it! The officials told us that it was not taking passengers and that there would be another ferry at 2pm.
At 3pm a ferry arrived and unloaded its passengers. We got onto the boat at 4pm and it set sail at around 5:30pm. We docked in Aqaba at 7:30pm.
Clearing Jordanian customs was a breeze compared to Egypt and we were out of the port by 8:30pm. We were both tired and hungry, so drove to a hotel in the town we had used before. The Moon Village hotel is a bit tatty and cost 30JD for the night, but it had parking outside for the Land Rover and we could walk into town for a meal at the Chinese restaurant and get a well earned beer!
Sunday 6 December 2009
Day 81 Sunday 06/12/09
Chill-out day and up date the blog day for EP & MC!
JC took the ferry to Jordan.
JC took the ferry to Jordan.
Day 80 Saturday 05/12/09
After packing up and checking out of the camp, we drove to Dahab to meet JC. On the way we drove into the desert to visit the Blue Valley, so called after a Belgium artist painted some of the rocks in the valley blue.
We drove for about 1 hour along easy desert tracks into the blue valley. It was a beautiful, peaceful place and we parked up to cook some food and have a chill-out. At one point a pick-up of Bedouin stopped and had a quick chat (and checking our passports) before leaving us.
After EP drove out of the desert, we carried on the road to Dahab, past a few checkpoints. Arriving in Dahab we booked into the Penguin Hotel, where JC was staying. We got B&B for E£120 and could get Wifi for E£10 per day!
Dahab is described as a laid-back resort and certainly has that feel.
We drove for about 1 hour along easy desert tracks into the blue valley. It was a beautiful, peaceful place and we parked up to cook some food and have a chill-out. At one point a pick-up of Bedouin stopped and had a quick chat (and checking our passports) before leaving us.
After EP drove out of the desert, we carried on the road to Dahab, past a few checkpoints. Arriving in Dahab we booked into the Penguin Hotel, where JC was staying. We got B&B for E£120 and could get Wifi for E£10 per day!
Dahab is described as a laid-back resort and certainly has that feel.
Day 79 Friday 04/12/09
Gebel Katarina is 2642m high and we arranged to set off from the camp at 8am at the guide’s suggestion. When the guide saw our Land Rover the day’s plan suddenly changed. Now we were to drive for 90 minutes into the desert and climb the mountain from the other side.
The walk up was up a wadi and then onto an easy track that was constructed by the Israelis. It was hot work slogging up the hill and just when you thought you were near the summit, there was a dip down and another false summit. We arrived at the summit after 5 hours of walking to be met by fantastic views of the surrounding mountains.
Walking down it was soon dusk and we were still high up. The temperature dropped like a stone when the sun went down. We were soon walking with headtorches. In the dark we were just following the guide and not knowing where we were. We got back to the car at 9:30pm – knackered!
It was then a drive back across the desert, with the guide fast asleep in the passenger seat, MC had to remember the way back! We finally got back to our camp at 11pm and went straight to bed.
JC had one of his best dive days today, diving the Thistlegorm. It was a wreck that he had wanted to dive for a long time and finally realized his wish.
Day 78 Thursday 03/12/09
We decided to climb Mount Sinai (Gebel Musa) today. Arriving at the car park at lunchtime there were many coaches and tourists wandering around the gift shops. We set off, only to arrive at a Police checkpoint and were told we needed a guide to climb the mountain. We were allocated a local guide for E£85 and set off in the heat. The climb up was an easy slog up a wide path, past huts selling drinks and people offering camel rides up the hill. We seemed to have the mountain to ourselves and arriving at the summit there was only one other person up there. We chose to take the alternative route down, the Steps of Repentance – 3750 steps built by a monk as a form of repentance. Here we met many other tourists heading up.
In the evening, at the Fox Camp, we arranged a guide to climb Egypt’s highest mountain next day.
In the evening, at the Fox Camp, we arranged a guide to climb Egypt’s highest mountain next day.
Day 77 Wednesday 02/12/09
We woke up early, preparing to make it to the Sinai that day. All showing evidence of visitors in the night, EP having 48+ bites on one hand!
We were soon onto the Sinai peninsular, driving down the Red Sea coast of Egypt. We decided to part company for a couple of days with JC heading straight to Dahab to get some diving done. EP and MC drove to the St Katherine Protectorate to explore the mountains of the Sinai. We arrived in the village of St Katherine (or Al-Milga) and booked into the Fox of the Desert Camp for E£30 per person per night for a simple room.
We were soon onto the Sinai peninsular, driving down the Red Sea coast of Egypt. We decided to part company for a couple of days with JC heading straight to Dahab to get some diving done. EP and MC drove to the St Katherine Protectorate to explore the mountains of the Sinai. We arrived in the village of St Katherine (or Al-Milga) and booked into the Fox of the Desert Camp for E£30 per person per night for a simple room.
Day 76 Tuesday 01/12/09
We left the town early on quiet roads and prepared for a long day of driving east. Our aim was to get past Cairo and on to the Sinai if possible. The roads were quiet and of a better standard than Libya and by late afternoon we were past Cairo (luckily finding the ring road to avoid the city centre).
It was dark by the time we neared Suez and driving was very difficult. In desperation we pulled onto the front of a roadside cafe and asked if we could camp there for the night. The staff were very friendly and helpful and we found out it was their opening night. We had some coffee and a meal and were then shown a loft space (above the Gents toilets) and told we could sleep there for the night.
At 11pm, when it looked like all the customers had gone, we retired to our unusual bedroom. The cafe stayed open all night and thanks to the constant sound of the TV, a squadron of mosiquitos and the lights on all the time, we all got very little sleep!
It was dark by the time we neared Suez and driving was very difficult. In desperation we pulled onto the front of a roadside cafe and asked if we could camp there for the night. The staff were very friendly and helpful and we found out it was their opening night. We had some coffee and a meal and were then shown a loft space (above the Gents toilets) and told we could sleep there for the night.
At 11pm, when it looked like all the customers had gone, we retired to our unusual bedroom. The cafe stayed open all night and thanks to the constant sound of the TV, a squadron of mosiquitos and the lights on all the time, we all got very little sleep!
Day 75 Monday 30/11/09
After a 130km drive, we said goodbye to Hussein and left the calm, courteous, hospitable Libya. We were then thrown into 4 hours of customs, tips and utter confusion. Eventually through having spent approx. £200 for the pleasure of driving in Egypt, the confusion increased as we were stopped by the police who insisted on escorting us for our safety! Three escorts later, with blue lights we made it to the hotel in Matrouh, which at £5 a night was overpriced for the facilities!
Day 74 Sunday 29/11/09
Leaving Derna we drove to Tobruck on our way to the Egyptian border. We were taken to a building on the outskirts of town that looked like a Libyan police station, but it was in fact the site of Rommell’s underground bunker (which we didn’t find out until after the visit) and the resting place for the remains of a WWII B52 bomber and various big guns. We then drove out to the war cemetery for the commonwealth troops and paid a visit to the memorial for the German troops too.
We spent the night at a partially built house on the outskirts of the city thanks to another of Hussein’s many friends that seem to be positioned all around Libya. MC and EP deciding to camp in the Land Rover again as the house was basically a building site!
We spent the night at a partially built house on the outskirts of the city thanks to another of Hussein’s many friends that seem to be positioned all around Libya. MC and EP deciding to camp in the Land Rover again as the house was basically a building site!
Day 73 Saturday 28/11/09
From our camp, we drove about 3km to a watering spot for goats and headed up to the cave where we met Mohammed a shepherd from Chad. He was using the entrance for his goats and dogs and joined us on the caving and photography trip. The cave has been well visited and is about 250m in length.
After a meal in Susa, we headed to the large Kaf Haitha near Ras-al Hillal After a quick stop to look at the large rock shelter with an archaeological excavation in it, we continued east to Derna and a hotel for a well deserved shower!
After a meal in Susa, we headed to the large Kaf Haitha near Ras-al Hillal After a quick stop to look at the large rock shelter with an archaeological excavation in it, we continued east to Derna and a hotel for a well deserved shower!
Day 72 Friday 27/11/09
Happy Eid! JC had already explored one short cave by the time EP and MC surfaced – it had been a noisy night with locals setting fire to trees, revving engines and cows tramping around us! We split up and had an explore down the valley. EP & MC found some rock shelters and shallow caves but scored some Eid cake, whilst JC became entangled in some ultra-strong spider web and carefully brought the spider to show us!
We then headed to Massah to try and find the 475m resurgence cave. This was eventually located with the help of locals and was found to be a major water supply. Given this, we decided that it was better not to explore this already surveyed cave.
In the afternoon we headed to the coastal town of Susa to find Ain Susa, a cave about 6km west of Susa. Unfortunately, we spent a couple of hours scrambling up and down on the wrong wadi! The owners of the allotment, two brothers, where we had parked had arrived and put Hussein straight. They were very hospitable and we shared their Eid meal with them, EP sharing a Christmas cake and they let us sleep on their land.
We then headed to Massah to try and find the 475m resurgence cave. This was eventually located with the help of locals and was found to be a major water supply. Given this, we decided that it was better not to explore this already surveyed cave.
In the afternoon we headed to the coastal town of Susa to find Ain Susa, a cave about 6km west of Susa. Unfortunately, we spent a couple of hours scrambling up and down on the wrong wadi! The owners of the allotment, two brothers, where we had parked had arrived and put Hussein straight. They were very hospitable and we shared their Eid meal with them, EP sharing a Christmas cake and they let us sleep on their land.
Day 71 Thursday 26/11/09
It was time to visit the Green Mountains. We had a GPS location and a description of a cave that had not been descended to the bottom near Takinis. Upon finding the cave it sounded like it was full of pigeons. We went back to the vehicles to sort out the caving kit but the house owner came over and told us that we could not go down the cave.
We continued to an area near the village of Battah, where there was a report of 11 dolines that had not been looked at before. In the village we caused quite a stir with the locals but none of them seemed to know where any were.
Driving on, we drove to find some large dolines near Qsar Libya. After a little searching we found the location of the farm near the dolines. A local offered to show us the holes and we set off following his pick-up. The dolines were impressive holes in the ground, but we had reports that they had been descended in the past and had no cave passage at the bottom.
We found a campsite at the start of Wadi Kuf, where we planned to explore the next day.
We continued to an area near the village of Battah, where there was a report of 11 dolines that had not been looked at before. In the village we caused quite a stir with the locals but none of them seemed to know where any were.
Driving on, we drove to find some large dolines near Qsar Libya. After a little searching we found the location of the farm near the dolines. A local offered to show us the holes and we set off following his pick-up. The dolines were impressive holes in the ground, but we had reports that they had been descended in the past and had no cave passage at the bottom.
We found a campsite at the start of Wadi Kuf, where we planned to explore the next day.
Day 70 Wednesday 25/11/09
We started driving when it got light and planned for a drive of around 8 hours to reach Benghazi. All was going fine until we stopped at the road side at 11:30 for a “comfort break”. Setting off MC could see JC waving frantically in the wing mirror. Stopping, we found JC had no power on the bike! We were in the middle of nowhere and had a dead bike! After a call to the bike mechanic for any suggestions and trying to jump start the bike, JC guessed that the problem was with the ignition switch, so decided to try hot-wiring the bike. This worked and after an enforced hour break we were on the road again!
We arrived at Benghazi by evening and drove through the outskirts of the city. We camped just off the road near Dariana.
We arrived at Benghazi by evening and drove through the outskirts of the city. We camped just off the road near Dariana.
Day 69 Tuesday 24/11/09
We, again, sat around waiting for the phone call. JC got a call to meet at 1pm to pick up his bike, so whilst MC and EP waited at Ali’s farm, JC and Hussein drove back to Tripoli to collect the repaired bike. They arrived back at 3:30pm and by 4pm we were finally on the road to Benghazi.
We drove east with examples of manic driving all around. When reaching a road traffic accident cars were driving onto the opposite carriageway or onto the verge to pass the scene. We carried on in the dark and camped in the desert near Sirte.
We drove east with examples of manic driving all around. When reaching a road traffic accident cars were driving onto the opposite carriageway or onto the verge to pass the scene. We carried on in the dark and camped in the desert near Sirte.
Day 68 Monday 23/11/09
JC got a call to say the bike may be ready by lunchtime and so we hung around the farm waiting. The Land Rover got its first wash in over two months. At 2:30pm JC got a call to say that the bike may be ready at 6:00pm, so again, we all headed into Tripoli to await JC’s bike.
We met Bashir again and had a wander round the old town and went for a meal. Whilst in the restaurant JC took another call to find that the bike would not be ready tonight, so it was back to the farm again, having called in on the bike repair shop to see the bike in bits – but with the front wheel and the shock absorber mounting repaired!
We met Bashir again and had a wander round the old town and went for a meal. Whilst in the restaurant JC took another call to find that the bike would not be ready tonight, so it was back to the farm again, having called in on the bike repair shop to see the bike in bits – but with the front wheel and the shock absorber mounting repaired!
Day 67 Sunday 22/11/09
The day of judgement for the bike .... We waited at Ali’s farm for any news on the imminent repair. Ali rang for some photographs of the damage and so we put some on a memory stick and met him on the way to Tripoli. We all headed into Tripoli and had the afternoon looking round the old town, drinking coffee in coffee shops or checking emails at an internet cafe. We met Bashir, one of Hussein’s friends from Ghadames, who now works in Tripoli and speaks good English.
With no news on the bike repair we headed back to the farm for another (free) night.
With no news on the bike repair we headed back to the farm for another (free) night.
Day 66 Saturday 21/11/09
A day of disaster...... Today was anticipated as a long drive to make our way to the Green Mountains which would eventually led us on our way to Egypt for the continuation of our journey. Our Tunisian friends had warned us that Libyan drivers were crazy, yet we had not experienced any of the craziness until now ....
Near Tripoli, MC & EP narrowly missed being rammed by a green people carrier and his next target of success was JC, who was pushed on his motorbike by the impatient driver! But worse was to come. After a tasty lunch of soup, salad, pasta and chicken for £4.50, we headed to Zliten with Hussein leading, JC following, MC & EP bringing up the rear. All of a sudden, JC was stopped in the road, not going anyway, with traffic speeding past him at high speeds, MC just managed to swerve. MC screeched to a halt and ran back and found JC in shock having found a deep pothole and damaged both wheels and collapsed suspension – the motorbike was not going anywhere! By some miracle, JC was not hurt and several vehicles stopped to help him get the bike to the safety of the hard shoulder. The damage was serious enough to render the bike unroadworthy. After a 7 hour wait for a recovery vehicle, the bike and us were taken to a farm on the outskirts of Tripoli (33km to the east) where Ali kindly let us sleep.
Near Tripoli, MC & EP narrowly missed being rammed by a green people carrier and his next target of success was JC, who was pushed on his motorbike by the impatient driver! But worse was to come. After a tasty lunch of soup, salad, pasta and chicken for £4.50, we headed to Zliten with Hussein leading, JC following, MC & EP bringing up the rear. All of a sudden, JC was stopped in the road, not going anyway, with traffic speeding past him at high speeds, MC just managed to swerve. MC screeched to a halt and ran back and found JC in shock having found a deep pothole and damaged both wheels and collapsed suspension – the motorbike was not going anywhere! By some miracle, JC was not hurt and several vehicles stopped to help him get the bike to the safety of the hard shoulder. The damage was serious enough to render the bike unroadworthy. After a 7 hour wait for a recovery vehicle, the bike and us were taken to a farm on the outskirts of Tripoli (33km to the east) where Ali kindly let us sleep.
Day 65 Friday 20/11/09
A busy underground day, as we headed off early to Ain Wadi Fsat once again. JC went ahead to push the low damp crawl and completed a through trip, climbing out a shaft whilst MC & EP continued to photograph the cave and its long-eared inhabitants.
The next exploration area was 3km lower down the valley, explored, surveyed and documented by Dr Kosa from Hungary. We crawled into AN1 to see if the water levels would allow us to complete the through trip. After passing porcupine needles, bats and some reasonable-sized mammal faeces, we came to a wet, flat crawl ... we decided to believe that Kosa was right that it was sumped.
We headed back to the car and completed the AN4 to AN5 through trip, where there are man-made ledges in the entrance of AN4, for what purpose we were unsure. Interestingly, a number of dead bats were observed on the floor and on a ledge.
The final area of karst we wished to visit was to Libya’s longest cave system, Ain Umm al Massabih, a cve with 17 entrances and length of 3,593m. Using Dr Kosa’s description from the ‘80s we found ourselves on the correct road and Hussein spoke to a man who directed us to the right dirt track – which is on the way to the football pitch! It was quite late when we set off into the cave, along with Hussein completing the first section and a driver of a lorry. In the entrance series, was foul-smelling black/green muddy water, evidently there had not been rain for some considerable time. We soon left that and found ourselves in some reasonably sized passage, traversing over pools then the cave narrowed, twisting and turning, meandering in marbled walls. JC was ahead, whilst MC &EP took photos. JC never reached the end and we turned back after a couple of hours, narrowly avoiding the bats on our exit out to the dark of the Cave Hills (Zakhrat al Ghar). Hussein had set up camp, a fire was going and we settled down to another night in the mountains.
The next exploration area was 3km lower down the valley, explored, surveyed and documented by Dr Kosa from Hungary. We crawled into AN1 to see if the water levels would allow us to complete the through trip. After passing porcupine needles, bats and some reasonable-sized mammal faeces, we came to a wet, flat crawl ... we decided to believe that Kosa was right that it was sumped.
We headed back to the car and completed the AN4 to AN5 through trip, where there are man-made ledges in the entrance of AN4, for what purpose we were unsure. Interestingly, a number of dead bats were observed on the floor and on a ledge.
The final area of karst we wished to visit was to Libya’s longest cave system, Ain Umm al Massabih, a cve with 17 entrances and length of 3,593m. Using Dr Kosa’s description from the ‘80s we found ourselves on the correct road and Hussein spoke to a man who directed us to the right dirt track – which is on the way to the football pitch! It was quite late when we set off into the cave, along with Hussein completing the first section and a driver of a lorry. In the entrance series, was foul-smelling black/green muddy water, evidently there had not been rain for some considerable time. We soon left that and found ourselves in some reasonably sized passage, traversing over pools then the cave narrowed, twisting and turning, meandering in marbled walls. JC was ahead, whilst MC &EP took photos. JC never reached the end and we turned back after a couple of hours, narrowly avoiding the bats on our exit out to the dark of the Cave Hills (Zakhrat al Ghar). Hussein had set up camp, a fire was going and we settled down to another night in the mountains.
Day 64 Thursday 19/11/09
Time to hit the road again and this time we were heading to the karst area. We drove through Yefren and to the village of Bir Ayyad where Hussein asked for directions at the fuel station. They knew two of the three areas that EP had written down. Armed with this information, we headed to the old grain store of Qasr Abu an Niran, a fortified hill top grain store, as this is near the centre of the karst regions. We had a quick look round for caves and then headed to Wadi Fasat.
After a walk around, MC & EP locating on the of the connecting shafts, we followed the reeds up the dry streambed and found the entrance to this cave, Ain Wadi Fasat. The cave is 618m long and as JC went ahead locating other entrances, MC and EP took photographs. In the cave was a colony of long-eared bats, with their Bugs Bunny ears, waking up as it was getting dark. MC and EP progressed in the cave, admiring the marbled walls but stopped at a low damp crawl, whilst JC had exited one of the minor entrances to survey the other valley. As it was reasonably late, we headed back to meet Hussein who had a fire going and had prepared a pasta tea at our camp for the night.
After a walk around, MC & EP locating on the of the connecting shafts, we followed the reeds up the dry streambed and found the entrance to this cave, Ain Wadi Fasat. The cave is 618m long and as JC went ahead locating other entrances, MC and EP took photographs. In the cave was a colony of long-eared bats, with their Bugs Bunny ears, waking up as it was getting dark. MC and EP progressed in the cave, admiring the marbled walls but stopped at a low damp crawl, whilst JC had exited one of the minor entrances to survey the other valley. As it was reasonably late, we headed back to meet Hussein who had a fire going and had prepared a pasta tea at our camp for the night.
Day 63 Wednesday 18/11/09
In the morning Lufti met us and showed us around the must-see labyrinthine lanes of the old caravan city of Ghadames with covered passageways and intriguing houses. The city grew up around Ain al-Faras (Horse Fountain) and was amazing designed to provide maximum protection from the heat of the desert . Lufti had grown up in Ghadames and knew the city inside out and gave us an excellent tour.
After lunch, we started our journey east with Hussein, who spoke a little more English than Alhadi. In Derj we faced a minor crisis when there was no petrol at the fuel station for John, apparently it had ran out the day before – not a problem we were expecting given Libya’s fuel reserves! Hussein disappeared to see a friend and came back with petrol for John.
It was a long five hour journey across the desert, with few points of interest. As it became dark, the driving became harder and we passed a couple of burnt, twisted corpses of camels – a stark reminder of one of the dangers of the road apart from the Libyan drivers!
We eventually arrived at our destination for the night, Al-Qaryat. We had a delicious meal of soup, salad, spaghetti bolognaise or couscous, chicken and coffee plus a night’s basic accommodation for 12d each, about £6.
After lunch, we started our journey east with Hussein, who spoke a little more English than Alhadi. In Derj we faced a minor crisis when there was no petrol at the fuel station for John, apparently it had ran out the day before – not a problem we were expecting given Libya’s fuel reserves! Hussein disappeared to see a friend and came back with petrol for John.
It was a long five hour journey across the desert, with few points of interest. As it became dark, the driving became harder and we passed a couple of burnt, twisted corpses of camels – a stark reminder of one of the dangers of the road apart from the Libyan drivers!
We eventually arrived at our destination for the night, Al-Qaryat. We had a delicious meal of soup, salad, spaghetti bolognaise or couscous, chicken and coffee plus a night’s basic accommodation for 12d each, about £6.
Day 62 Tuesday 17/11/09
We left Jedu at 8am for the drive south to Ghadames. The 275 mile drive, across flat desert on mostly straight roads was easy (but boring). We arrived in Ghadames at 2:30pm. Ghadames is on the border with Tunisia and Algeria and is a bustling desert town which is starting to gear up for tourists wanting desert trips.
After pitching our tents in the youth hostel grounds we were taken by Alhadi’s brother (Hussein) and Lufti, an English speaking guide, for a trip into the desert to Ras al-Ghoul, an old desert castle and then into the dunes to watch the sunset (with a mass of other tourists). Once back in town we wandered into the town to find a meal by ourselves and felt like we were escaped convicts without our guard!
After pitching our tents in the youth hostel grounds we were taken by Alhadi’s brother (Hussein) and Lufti, an English speaking guide, for a trip into the desert to Ras al-Ghoul, an old desert castle and then into the dunes to watch the sunset (with a mass of other tourists). Once back in town we wandered into the town to find a meal by ourselves and felt like we were escaped convicts without our guard!
Day 61 Monday 16/11/09
We crossed the Tunisian border quickly and easily, bypassing the long queue of local cars. We had been very well looked after by the cavers of Bizerte, Zaghouan and Sfax and have some wonderful new friends – a big thank you to all of you!
We were met at the Libyan border by Alhadi, the brother of Alarbi (our guide for Libya) who sorted all the necessary paperwork out and we were through in under one hour! We had read horror stories of crossing the Libyan border with mountains of paperwork, but this was our easiest crossing to date! We did not need to show driving licences, vehicle log books or our carnets!
Alhadi did not speak much English, so the day was a little confusing, not knowing what was going on all the time. All road signs are only in Arabic so we had no idea where we were at any one time! We stopped to fuel up, paying £0.08p per litre for diesel and £0.10p per litre for unleaded! By late afternoon we stopped at a fuel station outside a town and were told that we could camp behind it for the night. The fuel station manager spoke English and we found out we were at Jedu. We drove round the back of the station and set up camp. The fuel manager then produced our first Libyan meal – our first introduction to the hospitality of Libya.
We were met at the Libyan border by Alhadi, the brother of Alarbi (our guide for Libya) who sorted all the necessary paperwork out and we were through in under one hour! We had read horror stories of crossing the Libyan border with mountains of paperwork, but this was our easiest crossing to date! We did not need to show driving licences, vehicle log books or our carnets!
Alhadi did not speak much English, so the day was a little confusing, not knowing what was going on all the time. All road signs are only in Arabic so we had no idea where we were at any one time! We stopped to fuel up, paying £0.08p per litre for diesel and £0.10p per litre for unleaded! By late afternoon we stopped at a fuel station outside a town and were told that we could camp behind it for the night. The fuel station manager spoke English and we found out we were at Jedu. We drove round the back of the station and set up camp. The fuel manager then produced our first Libyan meal – our first introduction to the hospitality of Libya.
Day 60 Sunday 15/11/09
It was time to head for the Libyan border to cross in the morning so at 10am we set off from Sousse to drive south. We had an appointment in Sfax to meet Abdou, as he had some gifts for us.
We met Abdou and were presented with a big bag of food to keep us going into Libya. Thanks Abdou for your kindness!
It was a long drive to El-jadid and the border with Libya. We camped next to the border crossing on some waste ground, ready to cross at 9am in the morning.
We met Abdou and were presented with a big bag of food to keep us going into Libya. Thanks Abdou for your kindness!
It was a long drive to El-jadid and the border with Libya. We camped next to the border crossing on some waste ground, ready to cross at 9am in the morning.
Day 59 Saturday 14/11/09
DA hired a car so that we could all drive to Zaghouan. EP, MC, JC and DA were to go caving whilst the others went for a walk.
We went to rhar Zaghouan (Grotte du Diable or Cave of the Devil) with four members of the local caving club (Maher, Mohammed, Mourad and Sofian). The cave was a 75m deep pothole with a finely decorated chamber at the end. The only problem with this cave was the amount of loose rocks that could (and were) knocked down onto people below.
We went to rhar Zaghouan (Grotte du Diable or Cave of the Devil) with four members of the local caving club (Maher, Mohammed, Mourad and Sofian). The cave was a 75m deep pothole with a finely decorated chamber at the end. The only problem with this cave was the amount of loose rocks that could (and were) knocked down onto people below.
Saturday 5 December 2009
Day 58 Friday 13/11/09
JC set off for Zaghouan, ready for the next day and our planned caving trip with the Zaghouan Caving Club.
EP and MC had a lazy morning by the pool before walking into Sousse in the afternoon to find Wifi to catch up on emails and update the blog.
EP and MC had a lazy morning by the pool before walking into Sousse in the afternoon to find Wifi to catch up on emails and update the blog.
Day 57 Thursday 12/11/09
After a leisurely start (giving time to get some washing done) we all headed into Sousse to look round the medina and souks. EP, MC, DA and SG walked out to the catacombs museum which was only 250m long (out of the 5.5km known) and not really worth the effort of walking that far – but it was an underground trip!
Day 56 Wednesday 11/11/09
With Val on the plane home, JC, MC and EP met up in Sousse and booked into the Hotel Tour Khalef. EP’s parents arrived in Sousse today, as did Dave Appleing and Sarah Gibbs. EP’s parents were stopping at the same hotel for a week’s holiday whilst Dave and Sarah were in the sister hotel next door.
Day 55 Tueday 10/11/09
JC and VI set off back to Monastir as Val had a plane to catch the next day. Abdou took MC and EP to meet Jemel Cherif at the Institute of Industrial Management (who is working with Abdou to set up an outdoor and caving club) and the head of the new complex des jeune route port, Mr Mustafa Trigui, in Sfax to explain what caving is about to support Abdou and his fellow cavers in the formation of the caving club in Sfax.
In the evening MC and EP drove up to Monastir and car camped for the night.
Abdou then took MC and EP to the medina in Sfax to look round the shops and visit the Dar Jellouli Museum, which is an old classic courtyard house and contains traditional costumes and artifacts.
After our visit to the medina it was back to the complex des jeune for a training session in basic cave rope work for some of the new cavers of Sfax.
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